It actually doesn't look too bad but I don't hold out much hope for its continued health for two reasons. One, it needs to come out of its original container and, two, the planter it's in is far too small for all those herbs, let alone adding a catnip. You appear to have plenty of space in the background. I would get that plant out of its pot and plant it in the ground. It does spread a bit but is hardly 'invasive'. It's only a plant after all and you can control it easily. However, if you have true Nepeta cataria, ie cat nip as opposed to cat mint, you will probably need to protect it while it gets established - or the cats will get to work on it. Here is a link that might be useful: Cat mint.

First, I'd politely get in touch with the lot owner (being VERY friendly about it) to see if the lawn care company has been there in the last two weeks. Tell the neighbor that you just want to find out if they sprayed a herbicide on that lot. If so, I'd bet a lot of money that it drifted into your plants. You could have moved them if you'd known they were going to spray, and the company could have followed the guidelines about not allowing drift into other areas that weren't contracted for herbicide treatment. Then show the company your pictures and tell them what happened. I'd ask for reimbursement for the plants and soil and fertilizer you've used. In the meantime, about all you can do is wait to see if your plants survive. Don't do anything that would stress them. Since they're in self-watering containers, can you flush the water tank in case there was herbicide drift that ended up there? Maybe siphon out the water that's in there first and then thoroughly flush the tank. But in the end, if they've been injured with an herbicide, I think you'd be better off to toss the plants and soil, and start over. They probably won't recover, though in the rare case where the injury was not traumatic, they can. It really depends on how injured they were.

Those types of herbicides are systemic, so pruning won't do much. The plant may or may not survive through the damage and start producing more normal foliage at some point, but your yields are going to be much lower if it does. Pruning off any foliage that gets necrotic might be a good move but mostly to reduce the chances of diseases accessing the plant through it.

*Don't allow the plant to sit in the effluent that exits the drain hole. * Do this: immediately after a thorough watering, hold the pot in one hand over the sink, lawn, or over-sleeping significant other and move it downward, then sharply reverse the direction to upward. You'll immediately note that a good measure of 'excess' water will “continue downward in a straight line” and exit the drain hole. The sharper the reversal of direction, the more water exits the drain hole. When you have repeated the exercise until water no longer exits the drain hole on the reversal of direction, you will have eliminated all excess water and your plants will regard you with a newfound sense of awe. * Don't water until a tell stuck deep in the pot comes out barely moist or dry. See below. * Have you fertilized? You should be, regularly. I suggest you use Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. You won't find a better choice. *Repotting into a fast-draining highly aerated medium would likely do wonders for your plants and your ability to keep them healthy. This should be helpful. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al