Paul and Sandra,

It depends on what else was in the root stimulator. If the root stimulator's only active ingredient was B-1, then current research suggests that B-1 alone does not stimulate root growth. If it was a combination product that contained fertilizer + plant growth hormones + B-1, then you will at least get some result from using the product, The results will occur because of the growth hormones and fertilizers, not because of the B-1.

Products like these are produced/sold on the basis of research done in the early half of the 20th century which seemed to indicate B-1 helped root growth. And, it does, in very limited cases.....with the case being one in which you cut off all the roots and immerse the rootless plant in a solution of plant hormones and B-1. Later research discredited that earlier research, but people still sell this product. So, if you like to cut all the roots off your plants before you plant them, them B-1 might help, but otherwise it is a waste of your money.

And, for what it is worth, I take gardening advice from friends, neighbors and even family members with a grain of salt. I don't try anything in my garden until I have researched it thoroughly first. It is so easy to google and see if you find info that backs up what someone is telling you or not. I do find that all the "suggestions" you receive from other people do make you a better gardener if you research first.....seven times out of ten you'll find out you shouldn't follow their suggestions, but each suggestion is a good learning experience.

Dawn

if you're new to fruit trees in Oklahoma zone 6, I'd like to share: Have your soil tested at the extension office. If your soil isn't deficient in anything - fruit trees don't need fertilizer until they start producing (Dawn, please chime in on this one). As the wonderful sage said to the beginner, the first year they sleep, the next year they wake up and the third year they take off (actually there is a really cute way to say it, but I forgot the words). So, my personal experience is = clear a nice 3 foot circle around the trunk and mulch like crazy. Pretty stuff is ok but grass clippings work just fine. Keep the mulch 3-5" away from the trunk. If you do it now, you won't have to fight summer weeds... and it will keep the roots comfy in this cold weather. In the summer its essential to keep the ground cool and not dry out when we hit July and August. Mulch really helps, it will break down if its just grass clippings or leaves and you'll need to add more. I keep rain gauge and a watering calendar. When a tree is brand new I make sure it gets watered every week. Congratulations on your trees, you've made a wonderful contribution for generations to come.

As a mostly organic gardener, I'm not big on feeding landscape plants (trees and ornamentals) at all unless they are in containers and the constant watering leaches nutrients out of the soil.

I prefer to do it the organic way by feeding the soil and letting the soil feed the plants. So, for trees, I use mulch on the surface of the soil and, as the mulch breaks down, it feeds the soil and the soil feeds the plants.

I haven't specifically fed my fruit trees since I bought them. I just mulch them and the rain waters them and that is that. Well, during their first three years in the ground, I'll water them if rain isn't falling but only once or twice a month. Otherwise, during times of drought I don't baby them either, except that I'll water them if they are so dry that leaves are dropping. I'm a big believer in not over-feeding and not over-watering.

I grow vegetables somewhat differently and do fertilize them some, though not heavily, and only with organic fertilizers. Even with the veggies, I tend to fertilize certain ones (tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, onions, and corn) and not others.

Dawn