I use Microsoft Word to keep track of all my vegetable plantings. I copied and pasted these from word. In word I have them made up in a table so it is easier to use and read than it is here. I have two different ones made up. This first one is for the seeds that I start indoors. -------------------------------------- Bought from: Planting Seeds Date planted Method planted Date sprouted Comments/ Info Transplanting Date Comments/ Info Outside Date planted Method used First Harvest Date Date Finished (Pulled) General Info Production Diseases/ Problems Plant again? Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Comments: ------------------------------ This one I use for the seeds that I start outside. ------------------------------ Bought from: Planted Seeds Outside Date planted Method used Sprout Date First Harvest Date Date Finished (Pulled) Succession Plantings Planting # PlantedDate SproutDate HarvestDate FinishedDate Comments 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th 7th 8th General Info Production Diseases/ Problems Plant again? Rating: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Comments: --------------------------- There have been many times I have referred back to these. There are especially helpful when it comes to succession planting, to help determine how long till maturity and when to replant. When I start my seeds, and it seems like somethings should have sprouted already I just check back at how long it took to sprout in previous years and I know if something may be wrong.

Kim said... >My original obsession was outrageously out of hand and I loved it. [...] I'm keeping to the level area as much as possible. Weeding that slope is offensive enough without having to traipse up and down, sliding on every other step, to maintain anything down there. I know I will resent the ones which go on the slope and will eventually allow them to go the way of the Dodo, so I'm choosing to rid myself of them, instead. That's a LOT of roses, quite a few of which are seedlings either generated through my obsession or those shared with me by other "obsessives", but that is what it is going to take to keep this "fun", doable and prevent the water requirements from eating me out of house, home and desire. Weeding through them to maintain those which are just happier to be here with me and those which are endangered, has been a real chore. Now, if there was a ton of level land with high ground water. Hi Kim, Back in the Dark Ages we lived in California in just the sort of spot you are conjuring up as a high ground water fix. But native trees really like spots like that too... and our house had lots of shade, too much shade for most roses. Still, we wouldn't have dreamed of cutting down a tree. We didn't own the house, we like trees, and anyway, removing a tree was illegal without a good reason for a permit where we lived (a Monarch Butterfly preserve). Anyway, we were relative youngsters at the time and didn't know just how wet that property was until our vegetable garden was swimming in water during the winter months. It was fine, fine black silty sand that held on to the water pretty well too. Your post made me think about what we'd do if confronted with your lack of water problems back in California again. What you're doing makes a lot of sense. But I also am wondering whether a bank full of Renaes rambling around might not survive and also keep the weeds down once they proliferated and established themselves? They might take over the other remaining roses, but if you weren't still trying hard to keep those... A bunch of Renaes might not require so much watering once established? I don't think a big crowd of them would look bad at all, depending on personal tastes, of course. In fact, I prefer that kind of look. We've done that crowded thing in a pretty good sized area with azaleas and rhododendrons here; they all grow together and if there's a weed under there somewhere, well, you can't easily penetrate to find or see it. Once in awhile there's a tree sneaking in that will have to be pulled up, but basically it's too shady under all the plant thickness for most weeds to grow. And I adore the looks of those crowded plants! No, we don't have big problems with fungal diseases, even with the crowd. Maybe fewer than average problems, though phytopthera wilt sometimes does require some cutting back of rhododendron limbs. You know a big problem with azaleas and rhododendrons is that they aren't drought tolerant. Well, we have lost huge numbers since our drought problems began big time here around 2001. It's been wonderfully rainy most of the time during the last couple of years, but the next drought period is probably just around the corner... and if we lose some more azaleas and rhododendrons then, well, I'm thinking of trying to establish some Renaes and Annie Laurie McDowells in their place in the relatively sunnier spots... along with some more camellias, which are drought tolerant after the first year. (Though blooming is less than ideal if August and September are dry.) We lost our Annie Laurie McDowell to Rose Rosette Disease last year, but I am figuring that if it's anything like our Renae here, well, it's as no-care, no-worry a plant as any other plant of any kind we've ever had in our yard. Not a touch of blackspot or any other disease here thus far (though that may well change just a bit as we get more shade as the sun angle changes during the fall). Anyway, I'm hoping for another Annie Laurie McDowell eventually too. Ours is a no-spray all-organic yard for everything we grow and Renae fits well into that way of doing things. I think Annie Laurie McDowell will too. I know it hurts to cut back some on what you are able to continue doing, Kim. But I keep thinking mostly about your achievements and how much you have helped so many others in what you have already contributed. Thank you! Best wishes, Mary

It's a really long list, the plants that like it in our area. You're quite possibly a whole zone warmer than me, and may have more luck with some roses (Teas - not Hybrid Teas, and Chinas) than I would. I guess I have a different philosophy from other people - plant what likes the conditions you have. This doesn't mean that I don't amend the soil, just that I don't double dig or do anything overly crazy about it. Mostly, my plants are in full sun. Here is a partial list of stuff that's doing fine. Shasta Daisy Becky Dianthus (various) Black eyed susan Geranium Nimbus Various Asiatic/oriental lilies Baptisia (LOVE it!) Peonies/Tree peony Salvia (various) Monarda (various) Boltonia Agastache (various) Aster Ornamental Grasses Kalimeris Gaillardia Yarrow Nepeta Crocosmia Veronicastrum Penstemon Well, you get the idea. Some of these, I am able to grow because I have areas with seriously dry conditions or exceptional drainage because of the terrain, but a lot of these should be easy plants for you. If you want to try an easy to grow Digitalis, try Digitalis Ambigua, a true perennial with yellow flowers. It's quite lovely this time of the year.

It's my second year vegetable gardening as well, and I'm loving it! If only the sun would come out! Fruit Trees: *Cherries *Melrose apple *Redfree apple *Peaches *blueberries (multiple varieties) In raised beds: *Lettuce/greens: black seeded simpson, green oak leaf, red deer tongue, Australian yellowleaf, cracoviensis, rouge d'hiver, merlot, arugula, spinach *Tomatoes: black giant, black, bali, red russian, eva purple ball, russian 117, yellow peach, stupice *Peppers: gypsy, jalapeno *Winter squash: small sugar pumpkin, potimarron, musquee de provence *Summer squash: ronde de nice *Beans: vermont cranberry, rattlesnake, purple, jacob's cattle, agate soybean *Peas: green arrow *Carrots: dragon, atomic red, scarlet nantes *Onions: rossa di milano, generic white sets *Potatoes (in wine buckets): russian blue, french fingerling, alaskan sweetheart, caribe, german butterball *Cucumbers: lemon, armenian, boothby's blonde, straight eight, tondo di manduria Herbs: *greek oregano *italian parsley *lemon thyme *rosemary *mint *cilantro *garlic chives Still to go in: *Rosa bianca eggplants (under lights) *Genovese & Christmas basil (under lights) *Long Island Improved Brussel Sprouts (from seed) Beans: Rossa di Milano onion: Greens: