If you need more reinforcement for moving hostas now I'll add my 2 pennies. I used a filed 14' boat, a filled pickup bed and still needed the backseat of a car to get about 16 mature hostas moved 550 miles from northern Arkansas to Illinois and never lost a plant. It was in the 90's temp-wise. Once at their new home all I could do was dig quick holes, stomp the plants in, and water like crazy. In a week they may have looked a little ragged but not bad. My S&S had the hardest time-it made the trip in the boat inside a clear plastic bag (with holes in it to keep it from getting steamed) to keep the wind from tearing up the leaves. The next spring I started top dressing etc. Les

I had a hydrangea shaded by a tree that lost limbs after a hail storm. The leaves got sun scorched in about two weeks, causing me to construct a temporary "thing" to provide shade for the duration of the hot season. Real cheap kind of a thing. Had to be rebuilt after each windy day but it lasted long enough. By the next year, the tree canopy had grown back and the shade from my set up was not needed. You could do something temporary like that. But, if you will not have anything permanent fix to provide shade by next year, I would transplant it now; early Spring is a good time for planting hydrangeas. Of course, be aware that transplanting may affect bloomage this year on mopheads, lacecaps and oakleaf hydrangeas. An alternative would be to get some shade cloth and put it around the bush to temporarily give the plant some respite from the sun and move it when it is dormant. Do make sure that the problem you are seeing really is sun scorch since it is quite early in the season to be seeing that leaf problem and you did not say where you are located. Big-leaf hydrangeas, aka mophead & lacecaps, are the ones whose leaves are most sensitive to the sun, with paniculatas less so. The shock of more sun than usual may cause the leaves to temporarily react but as NHBabs suggested, if the ahrubs are paniculatas or maybe oakleafs, their leaves may slowly adapt to the extra sun after a while.... provided you live in cool areas of the country. Of course, down here in Tx all of the them suffer but that is a problem that occurs in late May thru September, i.e., later in the growing season. Browning of leaves from the edges inwards may indicate that some insect is munching on the leaf edges or that the soil needs water. If the leaves are getting too much sun, the leaves in direct contact with the sun will turn all yellow-ish or white-ish, INCLUDING the leaf veins; leaves that are protected from the sun and located inside the bush will remain dark green. Wilting of the leaves -if you see this- might suggest that the leaves are loosing moisture faster than the leaves can absorb water through the roots. Wilting could be caused if they need more water or if it is windy (maybe the live trees provided some wind protection effect). You can insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 4" to see if the soil feels dry or almost dry and then water it. About a gallon of water per watering in Spring usually works for newly planted shrubs; make it 1.5 gallons when things get warmer. More for older shrubs. And increase those amounts by 50% if you have sandy soil like they have in Florida. In the meantime, I suggest you give them some TLC: maintain the soil well mulched, as evenly moist (but not wet) as you can so the leaves and any blooms will not suffer from insufficient water. Post pictures if you need help deciding what is going on with the leaves. Then decide if it is truly sun scorch or something else and take appropriate action (use temporary shade cloth or move it or ????).

If you absolutely need to move it now you can, certainly never preferred to move any perennial right in the middle of it's short active growth cycle. If you have to move it dig up as much soil around it as possible to avoid damaging the roots or exposing them to air. Water them enough so that they don't dry out before being replanted but don't leave them boggy. Store them in enough shade that the roots don't overheat in whatever temporary container you have them in and treat them as a tender perennial when they're replanted. Provide several weeks of shade during the hottest part of your day once they're in their new home (put a lawn chair over them or umbrella, anything temporary) and keep them from drying out, again they don't like boggy situations so don't overdo it.

Do you mean you want to replant in a larger pot, separating the corms? Or just planting it in the ground? If the first, I wouldn't. Crocosmia is not a great container plant to begin with and attempting to separate a growing clump at this time of year could very well abort or alter the flowering cycle. But if you just want to plant the clump in the ground, I don't see any reason why you cannot do so now. And there is no need to try and separate the corms. By nature the corms tend to grow very densely.