Even though we haven't heard a definitive statement about the design direction you want to go, here's a stab at a layout for some basic landscaping... applying my "formula" as I have fun practicing. I'm ignoring some opportunities in favor of others. I'll let other forum members address things they think are of greater concern. It's a scheme. Nothing is immune from being tweaked or manipulated by real life concerns. Also, I don't show every plant detail that there could be; there are places where adding further details would be an enhancement to the scheme. And if I were doing this on a plan, I'm sure I would add more. There are discrepancies from one picture to the other because it's hard to draw with great precision at very small scale. Even though some plants jump out at me as likely contenders, the picture is not indicating what any specific plant is... just general form. For example, the plant under the tree with the blue flowers might be end up being Hosta. So don't take the drawing literally for every detail. It's meant to suggest a general direction and plan of attack. Also, because your original picture doesn't show what's at far left and right, I just guess and make it up and it's subject to being wrong. But it still suggests a general approach that might work with a little adapting. I'm all for a couple of street trees, but here again, I wouldn't take the placement literally. I'm mostly trying to keep them out of the way of other things in the drawing. I'm trying not to barricade or obscure the entrance. While I normally try not to place plants in front of windows, I think the distance between the windows on the porch and the multi-trunk tree in front is great enough to allow it. I think the area needs the small tree to give a sense of shelter (almost as if it was a domed awning) and to address the large blank space on the garage wall. The "ceiling" would need to be kept high to permit as much light as possible and then only plants tolerating or liking shade could grow as soon as conditions were stabile.

This isn't a 'shady' area. It is an area that gets decent sun. Shade plants can often handle an eastern exposure, but not always. Start by deciding what you would like it to look like *in the winter*. Deciduous shrubs look like dead sticks. So it is usual to plant shrubs that have some sort of color during the winter. Instead of the hydrangea, a blue colored conifer like a blue juniper would provide that color all year, then a shorter, flowering shrub could be planted in front. There are also gold conifers. BTW, the shrubs on the left are probably some sort of flowering shrub. I'd get them ID'ed before yanking them out. A lot of things are looking unusually ratty after this winter, and they may just need a bit of time and some pruning to look decent.

The first question..."has the tree outlived its usefulness?" begs another, HOW is the tree useful? Like a giant parasol, it provides protection from strong summer sun. It even provides a little protection from beginning rains. Visually, it adds interest as a sculptural object. And it frames and enhances (or obliterates depending on how it's controlled) the view of the house/property. I cannot see that it has outlived these functions. But I can see that it could be controlled a little differently so it does a better job of framing the view. Here's a little sketch that illustrates my point. I offer it not to convince you, but in order to let you know what to look for as you observe trees in others' front yards. As you travel about during the day, notice the difference in effect between trees that have been limbed up and those with low-hanging limbs. In general, large older trees that are limbed up present a cleaner, more stately appearance. If they have been limbed up properly (with balance and without protruding stubs) the character of the trunk may be much more impressive than one which has the competition of low limbs and foliage. The tree on the left competes and obstructs; the one on the right frames and shelters. Take this suggestion with a grain of salt as it's based solely on the view shown in the next photo. I've marked red Xs to show which limbs I'd probably remove, but this is something that would really depend on what the tree looks like from all angles of view. The goal would be to have the tree be balanced from all views and get the limbs high enough to visually clear the house. Remember that limbs left on the tree will get LOWER in the future as they grow longer and heavier. (It is hardly ideal to "organize" the branching structure of a tree after trees have grown for many years without guidance. It's far preferable to prune frequently along the way. But we're working with what we have.) Keep in mind that limbing up the tree also has the benefit of allowing more light to enter below while still retaining the tree's ability to shade from the high sun. This means that one's ability to grow other landscape plants below it is improved. "Is the tree too big for the house?" Imagine a little log cabin at the base of giant redwoods. Could there not be a more charming picture? In my view there's no problem whatsoever with a tree towering over a house. But they need to work together, not be in competition. The tree should shelter the house, not obliterate it visually. The tree roots should not interfere with the house foundation. One must desire the shade. When those requirements are met, a tree can be welcome. Though big old trees sometimes do fall over in severe storms, the likelihood of this happening is small enough that one can find thousands of danger-causing conditions that can be worried about before it. I just measured the trunk diameter of an oak tree that stands 14' from my house. It's 62". But before I would cut it down (It's benefits to me are tremendous even though it can also be a PITA,) I'd quit driving or riding with others as that's far more dangerous and likely to cause me injury. Keep the new walkway WELL clear of the tree trunk. I think you must pay much more attention to the geometry (shape and layout) of the new path than what is shown in either of the proposed schemes. It is a built object that is an extension of the architecture. It should demonstrate this. Because of the tree, it would almost certainly have a curving component to it. You might need professional assistance here to come up with the right scheme. (Though it MIGHT work out that way, in my mind, it is not a "given" that best location for the porch steps is at the center of the porch. Design is often a balancing act and you'd be considering more than just the porch and the steps.) Regarding "what to plant in front of the house"...the first thing to do here is work out the shape & form of the plant masses before thinking about the species of anything. You have to do this before you can figure out what plants are capable of making these forms. Consider that a very attractive custom built section of decorative fence could be the basis of screening the AC unit. It could be an opportunity to further enhance the architecture of the house and work in unison with plants. For some brainstorming ideas, Google images for: air conditioner screen.

Welcome Sweetkountry; I am in the Dayton area and I agree, it is too hot and dry to do anything right now. My husband says "welcome to winter in summer." I want to second what Bakemom said. Wintersowing is a greatway to get plants for next year. I tried it with great sucess. Almost too much sucess, as many seedlings did not get planted due to the volume. If you are in the Dayton or Cincinnati area there are a lot of great gardens to visit and get ideas. Our area does have some issues that other parts of Ohio do not. Our soil is extremely alkaline and some plants do not tolerate it well. not to mention the water from your faucet has a high lime content. Go to your local nursery and see if they have any lists you can go off of for your area. I have been volunteering for both an organization that sells native Ohio wildflowers and with a local butterfly house. Off the top of my head some great plants for cottage, butterfly, and scent are; 1. Any of the Echinaceas, color, easy, butterflies 2. Phlox, extremely scented. Pick a variety that is mildew resisitant. Some butterfly appeal. 3. Agastache, color, butterflys, scented leaves, can be a bit invasive depending on the hybrid 4.Zinnias The things the butterflies seem to go for the most. Annul but great wintersowing flower. Remember if you want butterflies, you need to limit or eliminate pesticides. Host plants for the catepillars are helpful as well. My hubby and I were trying to eliminate this vine in our yard till we realized it was honeyvine milkweed and a favorite of Monarchs. Guess what! Last night I found my first monarch catepillar on one. What fun. There is a great butterfly forum on Gardenweb that will tell you anything you want to know about BFs. Goodluck!