I was going to do exactly the same, to a bed that borders a large paved area. The contractor advised me strongly NOT TO!! Said the roots would lift the pavers and creep under the fence and annoy my neighbours! But with a secure barrier, maybe it would be OK. But I didn't try it.

Or, you could plant a dense, clumping species like Fargesia robusta or Thamnocalamus tesselatus. Saw the rootballs in half when you plant them and put them all in a row. But for a space that narrow, I would still use a barrier, since they will still expand outwards some - though not as aggressively.

Yes, I had golden, arrow, and black bamboo in a bed 3'x21' for at least 5 years. The bed was a double layer of 6x6 wood posts layed horizontally with corrugated fiberglass panels attached that went about 20" underground.

It would have lasted longer, but the bamboo roots escaped from the 4 corner junctions of the subground fiberglass that was the weak point of the setup, although there was some escape from the panel overlap on the long sides of the bed also.

Plus, the whole thing was bulging out 6" on each of the long sides due to the root mass. The timing of removal had to do with the entire bamboo grove raining down aphid dew on our vegetables nearby.

One foot is much too narrow unless you are going to use a cement barrier or trench around the whole row and chop off roots that come into the trench airspace. After a few years the root mass will be a powerful force. Wet snow will lay a row that narrow right over on its side.

Hi:

I hate to contradict nearly everybody, but...

I don't see that you say it's a raised bed. If it's not raised there's no chance of it falling over on its side. Since it's new construction you will be able to prepare the bed and barrier properly. Corrugated fiberglas panels are not recommended as a barrier. You need official bamboo barrier (accept no substitutes except maybe reinforced concrete).

Golden Bamboo is way more aggressive than Arrow.

My friend Kevin had a bed of Black just like you describe. It was contained by bamboo barrier (that you would buy from a bamboo dealer). It worked out great. Gorgeous.

You should definitely do it, but do it right.

I think you should post this question again on Bambooweb, where I think you'll get more detailed info on how to do it. Definitely NOT something to be afraid of.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bamboo Web

Should you decide to go ahead with this installation, know that the rhizomes (not roots) turn into 'wood' so when you or ? wants to remove it, you will essentially be removing under ground wood as the rhizomes age. Also remember that each culm produces branches that are 2-5 feet long, making a 4-10 foot wide installation. Each culm lives 5-10 years so over time you will have to remove dead culms. You will need room to get tools in and out and around the individual culms. If your hedge gets too thick you will get leaf drop as sun can't penetrate the hedge. Golden bamboo has many branches down low and requires a lot of maintenance to remove dead branches as they mature and die. The bamboo nursery I worked at for ten years used to do a lot of removals and the fellows who did them said that narrow situations were by far the hardest removals. Barriers are large pots in the ground with no bottoms. ALL plants out grow ALL pot eventually! How many other plants that large could you expect to keep in a space that small and for how long? Good luck! It will look great for a while. The sun/shade situation will dictate how fast your bamboo will grow and spread. Shade/slow - sun/faster.

I just hate it when people don't do their homework on a certain plant and they are so fast to jump on top of it with bad news. You can plant bamboo anywhere you want if you are willing to put a barrier in the ground. Most Bamboos run approx. 21" inches deep. They will run through regular garden soil and even clay soils. However they don't run in my dry rocky soil. I have clumps of Timber Bamboo I wish would run but it hasn't moved an inch. I pocket planted it with good soil in a smaller area and it has stayed put. I grow all sorts of bamboo in my garden and it doesn't do much in my garden except form a tight clump, even the runners. For a barrier you can use galvanized sheet metal or thick plastic would probably be better. When you install the barrier make sure it is put on a slight angle facing outward in the ground. Phyllostachys aureosulcata, P. aurea and Pseudosasa japonica make great hedges. Be sure you fill the planting trench with good soil and give your bamboo ample Summer irrigation. Well drained soil is important. I know of many awesome Bamboo hedges on our island. Good Luck, Joe

I don't know where charteuse2 lives, but I have a big old stand of Pseudosasa japonica (Arrow Bamboo) and you are welcome to come and dig some (W. Seattle).

It is ancient. I'm guessing 40 years old or maybe more. It has not run very far, but it does spread.

I'm glad to read Banana Joe's post. I also have a clump of timber bamboo (vivax) that I wish would spread. It's been in the ground for at least 7 years and has not run. I believe the roots or something in the roots of my Eucalyptus trees keeps it in check. I wonder if that's the same for Joe's. It was rampant in the place I dug it, a bone dry Superfund site industrial area. You could even see the rhizomes form bulging under a wide blacktop area.

My anecdote stands: The soil portion of the bed was raised only 6 inches and wet snow layed much of the bamboo over, not the bed itself. One foot wide is too narrow, the root mass will pop up over the barrier eventually. If it is never summer-watered or fertilized, it could last for some years using the more delicate arrow bamboo.

Anyone else ever had aphids on bamboo--I thought it was rather odd. They were not on fresh growth, only mature leaves.

Wow Eric, did your bamboo come from Harbor Island. I looked at a stand of Vivax there many years ago and was told it had been there for twenty years or so. It had spread but was unhealthy and spindly but rather attractive as it was sparse, evenly spaced and created a really open forest feeling. It had never been watered or taken care of and it never attained it's mature size.

I have seen aphids on lots of bamboos but they really seem to enjoy anything in the bamusoides family (old and new growth)!!! I got rid of some All Gold just because it was starting to get aphids after nearly ten years! I also got rid of a large stand of Bory after ten years. It didn't get enough water and enough light and was not growing to it maximum potential, (too far from the hose and too many trees). It was also too close to the driveway and every time it snowed or even rained it would fall over the driveway! Wrong plant in the wrong place.

I too think that one foot is too small of a space to place a plant that wants to be in a much larger space but it is certainly possible with good maintenance! With bamboo there are many variables and (it depends......).

Part of my reason for suggesting a clumping species such as F. robusta is that the side branches are short as well.... it would not spread so wide leading to those other problems. Still, it would probably start to get crammed and look worse after several years, in such a narrow space.

Eric, I have a 30' tall vivax that is spreading quite nicely. It is surrounded by eucalypts. I water it with a soaker hose about once a week in the summer. The clay soil it is on is very moisture retentive once watered, yet not too poorly drained for the plant to do well. I have also figured out the secret to making it not fall over. As yet I haven't had too serious problems with aphids or sooty mold. My only regret is not planting 'Aureocaulis' there instead.

Yes, my Vivax came from harbor island. That's the first bamboo I ever dug and I didn't get a very big piece to start. I used to visit that garden quite a bit as I knew someone who ran a print shop out of that building. That was a remarkable garden. A true oasis. Right next to a metal recycler and wrcking yard. All gone now.

That is the same grove, right next to a print shop! I 'm sure the clump you obtained is having a much better life now!

I'm in the process of deciding how to plant my black bamboo, moso, and vivax (from ebay). They are in 15" pots now and the black is about 8 feet tall already. I have two spots. One is in the back yard in full sun in an area about 8' diameter where the height is of no concern (taller the better), and the other is along my driveway next to the southwest property line on a east facing 10-15 degree slope with half day sun, right outside the drip line on the south side of a 60+ foot Douglas Fir. I don't want it much over 20-25 feet near the driveway. The Driveway planting would be about a 20x4 foot oval (maybe two 10x4 ovals?). Can I put two of them together and let the best one win? Do I need 30" barrier for both? My soil is not great and has hardpan (Hard clay) about 3-5 feet deep. Thanks for any advice!

gccampos in brierwa

All of the bamboo's you have will want full sun! They will grow in less but will NEVER be what they CAN be in full sun. A word of caution about driveway plantings. When it rains or worse snows, you will have bamboo all over your driveway. No big deal if you don't have to leave for work early and can spend some time getting your car out from under it or through it from the garage. Hopefully you won't break any culms in the process!!
I would plant the Vivax in your full sun in the back yard, if you can spare more room do so. The Nigra and Moso in the other areas. Moso grows very slowly in the NW and will be a massive bush for years. Not enough sun and rain in the summer! It's still beautiful and in 15-20 years you will have a nice 15-20 foot tall grove. Moso wants well drained soil. Nigra isn't as picky but will grow better with good soil, (like most plants). Don't mix any of these as the biggest and fastest growing bamboo (Vivax) will shade out the smaller ones). Nigra will shade out the Moso. Hope this info is helpful! Most books are dealing with bamboo in its native habitat and do not address individual regions. You might try the bamboo forum and do a search. Much has been said about growing conditions for different boos. Of course it all depends on what you are willing to settle for too. I advocate rhizome pruning over using a barrier. This is a whole nuther subject!

Ian,

What is the secret to not making it fall over. Right now I have my boo tied up with some green, metal wire. It works but isn't the best look.

jb

Yes, I would like to know this too. I have some ideas but would sure like to hear others!!!!

I had the luxury on my 3x21 foot bamboo bed surrounded by 2 horizontal layers of 6x6 wood to attach on them 2x2 cedar uprights about 4 feet tall and connected across the top with more 2x2s. This is elaborate but worked very well, the unloaded canes could not lean more than 10 degrees.

Perhaps metal field stakes could be placed around an unraised or unbordered bamboo grove and connected with cord, wire, etc. The stakes are available in green, and cord in many colors. This is how I do my caneberries.

If you try to confine the bamboo too closely, it will over-power the stakes.

The secret to vivax not falling over....OK this works well for me but no guarantees for anyone else... a lot depends on soil type, watering practices, etc. I have heavy clay soil which is barely well drained enough in winter to support the plant. In summer the soil would dry out, if I did not water it with a soaker about once a week which is enough to keep it happy it seems. My vivax used to lie flat on the ground by the end of each winter, now it is rare that I lose a culm at all.

Here is what has worked. First of all I let lots of grass and weeds grow up around the bottom of the plant, which I think sort of holds the soil together better so it does not get so mushy... even through the winter they transpire some moisture into the air and every little bit counts. The real secret is... every year in August I dump a little circle of dark rich compost around the base of each new culm from the previous spring.... maybe 20" wide and 5" deep. I think this must encourage strong rooting right around the base of the culm, which holds it in place. But I don't want to mulch the entire grove like this or the roots anchoring the culm may be less concentrated.... I am not sure about that but anyways whatever the reason really is, it is working great. I want the rhizomes to spread around, which they do wherever I water, regardless of my mulching practices. Over time of course the compost breaks down, improving the soil drainage and fertility in the spots I use it.

Now don't tell anyone!!! LOL Now if I could just figure out a way to get my eucalypts to stop falling over.... this has been a rough winter on them. Maybe this method or similar would work on them too if I get them when they are small.

Thank you, Bamboomary, for the advice. I'll start diggin my trenches and go for the barrier though AND root pruning. I might even write a pre-bamboo agreement with my neighbor, taking full responsibility for any bamboo that makes it into his yard. He is a bit aprehensive.

gccampos

I have black, Japanese timber that I grew from seed in the 70's and a stand of henon that is about 30' tall after 12 years. I've had the same problems with culms lying down that I've handled by tying it loosely with black plastic twine and threading the cord thru the stand to culms on the other side so that opposing forces hold everyone upright. I tied it as high as I could reach and the cord is nearly invisible.

I used to work on Harbor Island and was going to grab some of the 'boo that lived there but I delayed too long and missed out. Used to be a very pretty catalpa tree near there too but... all concrete now.

Parallel info on pruning...

I've tried various tools for cutting 'boo and the best I've found is my electric sawzall with a long blade. Its fast, controlable and with a 12" blade you can get those hard to get at ones way back in the clump. It also works great for cutting clumps and rhizomes for division...dirt and all. Pawn shops are a good source for sawzalls of various brands and they usually have quite a few on hand. Most shops will negotiate on price so don't pay what is posted. If they wont negotiate, go to another shop. Home Depot and Lowe's have the long blades.

Paul

Well I finally did get the vivax in an 8 foot diameter circle in the back yard in the sun. It has one new shoot that I can see and another one that grew sideways and then up about 5 feet. It needs support, but I haven't gotten around to that. When I went to plant the moso and nigri in the front by the driveway, I found a big stump right where I wanted the nigri!! So, against advice, and because I was tired of digging, I planted both the nigri and the moso in the same 8 foot diameter hole. I have the 2.5 foot 60 mil barrier that is bolted and strapped where they join, and it is doing well. The moso is really taking off with dozens of new shoots, and the Nigri is looking good but not as vigorous as the moso.

Grant

Hi Grant don't dismiss the Nigra as being less vigorous. Moso will continue to put out massive quantities of small shoots for years before you ever see anything of size. Make sure that the Nigra doesn't overtake the Moso in the process. It may start to shade out the Moso which really needs the sun!!! Try to recreate the Chinese growing conditions of summer heat and monsoons (watering). Be patient, it's worth the wait but you will never see it grow to it's full height and diameter in our climate. It is still one of the most beautiful however!

The house we bought May 2005 already had bamboo next to house in narrow bed north side. No idea what type, green leaves, green culms. In July it sends new shoots up which grow very fast and when attain 15' in a month, open up. To keep this bamboo from falling over onto the walkway when it rains and is windy, we put giant hooks into roofline boards and house (using studfinder of course), and then use bungy cords to rope in the bamboo. This has worked well. There's a spot between the garage and the house, about 4', where the bamboo is not bungied and slaps against the roof in the wind, so all those culms have broken off at the roofline. This spring when it gets hot and sunny I will prime and paint more giant hooks to match the trim / house and put them in, caulk, and bungee the rest of the bamboo so it can grow.

This bamboo runs but so far has NOT made it under the sidewalk over into the next patch of soil.

The birds like the bamboo.

There's no way I'd attempt to put bamboo, like golden and others, in a 1' width bed.

Even a small 5 gallon size has a rootball almost 1' wide.

Tree root barrier, or bamboo barrier, are unlikely to contain escape.

They can both be cracked or broken with enough pressure from the roots. Even it you sealed the seams and cracks.

You would almost need a concrete retainer 3" to 4" thick.

But you are "asking for it" if you try that narrow area with bamboo or tree barrier. I've used both extensively, and would not trust it to hold back bamboo in such a small area.

The barriers also become more brittle with temperature drop. The upper edge is more sensitive to breakage in cold temperature.

In the short-run, the barriers would work. The problem probably won't show its face until after about 4 to 6 years.

Without straining myself, I've cracked bamboo barrier, and tree root barrier while doing removal, just a few years after installation. Root mass development can generate more pressure than I used to break the panel.

Amen to mdvadens comments! He is dead on. Everything he is saying is 100%!!!! And I love bamboo but it is a vigorous large plant and it is unfair to expect it to grow and stay in such a small place! I have clummping bamboos that have formed five foot clumps! heck, some of the large Miscanthus want more room than a foot!

I've seen lovely big culms of bamboo in a straight line along a patio edge but it's been a few years so I don't remember clearly and don't know how it was trained or constrained. I have a couple of timber bamboos in an open place but they haven't really grown much yet. Perhaps it is too dry for them in the summer. Thanks for the info, bamboomary!

I have purchased Vivax Heungwhenzhu. What is the minimum diameter or width and length depth his plant needs to be reasonably happy? It is a full sun location and we get lots of rain, except in July and August? I realise it may not reach it's potential in a small bed but was hoping it would have 2" culms and be about 30' or so?
I have another question: does bamboo come up really small and then thicken and grow tall year after year? Thanks Steph

Hi madhatten that is a cool plant and you should have no problem with it reaching 2" dia or up to 30 feet. It will probably take up to 6-7 years to do this with good growing conditions. Bamboo comes out of the ground the diameter it will be when it is full grown. It grows to its full height in 8-10 weeks. It will never grow taller or bigger diameter. Taller and larger diameter growth will come in subsequent years as rhizomes develope and are able to support the larger growth. I attended a growers conference awhile back. A question as to how much room do you really need for best growth and development was asked of a large scale bamboo grower in the SE US. His answer was that the rule was that if you had a bamboo that wanted to be 30 feet tall, you would need 60 feet of room for it's spread. If the plant was to top out at twenty feet, you would want to have 40 feet. This is why people run into problems when they plant it in a small space and walk way from it for twenty year. You can't put a barrier in the ground and expect it to be a forever solution! Concrete and rebar are your best bet for a narrow installation! Bamboo grows wood faster than trees! It's a great plant in the right place. Bend over and do the work pruning the rhizomes and you won't have problems

Hi there Mary, thanks for your response. Opps, I don't have that much room: 60ft. I probably need to exchange the plant. I am wondering if there is a more suitable thick culmed bamboo that will be happy in a 10' X 6 ' spot with rhizomes that is hardy in our north west climate.
Thanks

You don't need to return your bamboo. You just need to know you will have to stay on top of controling it's spread. Few people allow the needed space for Bamboo or for that matter many other large growing shrubs and trees. Gardening for the most part seems to be the manipulating of plants to suit the gardeners needs and individual taste. Boxwoods are a very good example of this..... go ahead and plant your bamboo enjoy it but take care to keep it in your own garden!

No one has mentioned how messy Bamboo is. If you have a neat and tidy garden the messiness will drive you over the top. It drops leaves during the summer when the new shoots are opening, giving them additional light and space to grow. Leaves in the Fall I can deal with, but all summer?

As mentioned above, Bamboo is continually flopping over. One of my groves of Black Bamboo is about 60 ft. X 90 ft. One side adjacent to the driveway, is a real chore when it snows.

Don't get me wrong, I like Bamboo. Careful siting and well thought out barriers are the keys. I also like the way it sways in the wind.
Here's some Gold Bamboo next to one of my ponds.

{{gwi:1069218}}
Water can be a barrier.

That is a beautiful picture. Wish I had that in my back yard this week-end - need a nice cool place to wait out the 100 degree weather that's gonna hit us!

Like Cascadians says, "The birds like Bamboo". They seldom make a nest in it, but rather use the Bamboo for a safe roosting place at night. Nothing can creep up on them without warning. It's good for the birds and while they are there, they fertilize it. Win win situation.

Burning the dried culms sounds like a gun battle.

They take a long time to compost. I tried it for awhile but the Mountain Beavers moved in under the pile for protection.