Hey bobyoe! Glad you straightened that out for everyone! However, your comments do raise an issue that "$ per sq. ft" obsessed folks need to think about when they talk to a builder. It's the cost of the whole project that counts, not just the cost of the house. Plus, the features, finishes, and location of the house within a market area can make a 10,000 sq ft house cost less than a 6,000 sq ft. house. No one gave us a good ballpark estimate for things like professional fees, permits, impact fees, drainage systems, or site work before we started. Most of those items were not related to the size of the house. Those costs will end up being about 18% of the total project costs. No one could convince my "$ per sq ft obsessed husband" that the features he wanted in our house were equivalent to building multiple luxury kitchens. He is convinced now :-). Same thing goes for the outside entertainment areas. He thought the covered areas should be priced like a garage. Wrong. The spec'd finishes bring the entertainment areas to a higher cost for build out than any non-plumbed room in the airconditioned space. The thing that I think we could all agree about is that you can buy an existing home at a significantly lower cost per sq. ft. in today's market. Major builders are dumping new 5 and 6 bedroom 8,000 sq ft homes in our county for $600-$800K. Yeah, they are in outlying areas on small lots, but they are brand new homes. So, in addition to size and features, you have to price in: 1. supply and demand, and 2. location within a location. We are in Palm Beach County, Florida. Our lot costs vary from $20 million per acre on the ocean in Palm Beach, $10 million per ocean front acre 15 miles south on the same island, $2-5 million per acre intracoastal waterway on the same island, and $50,000 for a 1/4 acre builder's lot 15 miles west of the ocean where the national builders are dumping their inventory. Why bring lot costs into the discussion? It's because builders will hit you hard for building in an area of high land costs. I guess they think they are entitled to a big premium if you are paying premium prices for your lot. That's my 2 cents for the day!

Hi, Thanks, I did mean counter height. The prep table is 34 x 34 in size. Here is the magic, bear with me as I try to describe, but it may not be obvious until I can show you the finished picture. First, you can approach the small prep table from any side you want. The sink is actually a double sink with a small ~9 inch bowl on one side. The larger portion will hold a cutting board, and will hold it flush with the surface of the counter. In fact I'm hoping the cabinet guy who cuts the hole out of the butcher block can do so in a way to reform the waste wood from the hole into this cutting board. So when the board is in place, all you will see is a 9 inch round sink in the corner of the table (or the middle of one edge, still trying to decide). This leaves up to 24 inches of space to one side of the sink as the faucets in middle of island. When the board is out, exposing both sinks, there won't be as much space admittedly for chopping, but again, this is for prep, not dishes cleanup. If you plan to wash dishes, absolutely you need more room on one side or another, or a real two basin sink (which I have negative opinions about anyway). And regarding flow: Firstly, second post is me, so as you can see, too late for flow suggestions.... The traffic through the kitchen will only occur along the line with the refrigerators. The only people in the space by the stove and the sinks will be me or my lovely wife. The idea is to keep people out of my way as I'm a full contact cook. The reason I have 30 inches on either side of the rangetop is all the dishes will be in the drawers below the counter to the left of the range, nearest the table, but still very close to DW. The cutlery will actually be in the drawer on the backside of the DW, facing the table. I'll attach a more inclusive design sketch so you can more fully understand. In it the dining table(s) will be to the right by the bay window. The dotted lines are what was removed in our remodel. The bank of stuff in the corner is a wet bar I'll talk about later, but suffice it to say, guests will not need to come into cooking triangle for a drink. I don't want to hijack this thread though. The idea is to fully understand how to design around a 2 island concept. I agree that the size of the smaller island is a sticking point, too big and your kitchen has to be mammoth, too small and what's the point. Trying to maximize this island's function in a small space is critical in my mind and that's what I've tried to do. The way you use the big island is likely more versatile. Not everyone will put a sink there, some may prefer their cooktop on an island which the plumber will prefer. Of course an island cooktop means an island hood, which means a huge design/and function tradeoff. I myself don't want guests sitting at the space I cook ... even with a fire extinguisher handy..... And no, I don't have years with this kitchen design to tell you what I think, but I do have cabinets sitting in place and I can walk around them. It flows very nicely. In our old space someone had to literally back out and move to let someone into a spot. Now you can simply circumnavigate....

In fact, Vinyl Fencing should NOT be sold as a DIY product. Here's why: I know everyone who had been in Construction or Reno for years believe it will be easy to install and they "Can do it", but this is very far from the truth. I had seen this 1st hand tooany times. Remember, Suppliers are simply selling to make profit. They do not care what happens in 10 to 20 years, nor if your PVC / Vinyl fence was correctly installed... They supply crappy and inaccurate installation instructions, making Clients to believe it is easy. Yes, it is easy if you know what to actually do. It is even easier installing it wrong.... Installed incorrectly, or as per supplied instruction, or as per YouTube Videos, will most certainly result in sagging rails, failing posts etc. We are Value Fencing PVC Franchise Group do it right: 1: We use Aluminium H- beams inside our rails. 2: Our panels span MAX 6 foot post to post, opposed to 10 foot. (10 foot is way too wide and will sag over time) 3: Post should be planted deep. We plant 33% of the post deep. (6ft fence post to be planted Min 3ft deep.) 4: Holes and Posts are to be filled with 25MPA concrete mix around 2/3 up. 5; 4x Y8 Steel ribbed re-enforcing rods should be I settled into all posts prior to filling with concrete. 6: Rail connectors are to be used, instead of cutting holes in posts for rails to slot in. (Cutting holes will reduce the posts strength significantly) Of installed this way, and your Vinyl fence material is of High quality, it will go 20 to 30 years minimum with absolutely no issues. Due to our proper installation method, we Guarantee our work for 20 Years. DIY and or inferior quality materials usually act up withing a few years with no o reliable to fix the mess. I strongly suggest to find a local expert in the field, using good quality grade PVC / Vinyl fence materials to assist in the installation. This way you have peace of mind knowing material quality and workmanship will stand the test of time. Here in SA, we have a saying: "Paying less always turn out expensive" We proud ourselves in our : "Everything in business is negotiable, except Quality"

Though these pics are not of my heels, they look like my dry, cracked heels looked most of the time. My heels also got deep cracks at times. I soaked, pumiced, cremed for years. They'd improve with diligence, but never got completely clear. Guess what? Fungus. Pure and simple fungus. My doctor told me to apply an OTC topical for athletes foot, if that didn't work she'd prescribe something that would. One OTC tube later, my fungus was completely gone. I have had nice heels for three years - I think! - winter and summer, no fussing or pumicing or soaking. You might consider trying it. Pretty cheap if it works, and I'm betting it will. ETA: Nuts! I can't get the pics to load. Sorry about that. I'll keep trying.