Lpinkmountain has given you a bunch of good suggestions, (& probably Eric also, though I didn't follow his links.) I have several additions of native trees, most of which I grow. Oxydendron arboreum would probably stay within your size requirements. Acer pensylvanicum tops out at about 35', has green and white striped bark, decorative dangling clusters of spring flowers (tho small and green) and yellow fall color and is a woodland native. Several native viburnums are small to medium, multistemmed trees: V. lantana, V. cassinoides &/or nudum (taxonomy is up in the air), V. prunifolium. all have white spring flowers in flat panicles, late summer to fall berries, and good fall color. Prunus americana, flowering plum, is a small native spring flowering tree with pink to white blooms. I don't know if it meets your requirement of long-lived, but the ones I know have been around 20+ years and are still plugging away. I didn't find any reference to how long they typically live. I don't know if you want to consider them as well, but there are some native large shrubs that include Clethra alnifolia (likes wetlands, has white to pink late summer flowers and golden fall foliage), Fothergilla major (white spring flowers and red to orange fall color), several of the native deciduous rhododendrons, rhus typhina (staghorn sumac, which suckers, but has the most gorgeous fall colors of any plant I know), Ilex verticillata (deciduous, nonprickly winter berry holly), and high bush blueberries. One additional note: I have Cornus alternifolia growing in full sun and full shade and every light level in between, and it's truly a four season tree: creamy white panicles of spring flowers, late summer berries (dark blue with bright red stems) and nice overall shape, peachy fall foliage, and great winter branch structure. It's fuller in sun than in shade, had more blooms, and is nicer foliage color.

Lacebark, Inc., P.O. Box 2383. Stillwater, OK 74076 Much has been written in recent years about the need to plant only "native" species. But the key questions are often overlooked. Is a plant best adapted to where it is "native"? Once urban soils have become homogenized and modified with all sorts of construction debris, is any plant "native" to that site? Are all introduced species "bad"? Shouldnt adaptation of a plant to a site or region be considered instead of just "native" vs. exotic? Just because a plant is "native" to an area, does that mean that the location/conditions are where is grows best? All these are questions that need to be considered. Our focus should be on plants adapted to a site and with acceptable "manners" relative to the desired purpose. The plant that grows best on a site may or may not be the most desirable and it may be a native or it may be an exotic. In many instances I feel requirement is often confused with tolerance. For example, my research that created the micronutrient fertilizer, Micromax, was done with tomato and pyracantha only. That was in 1978. Micromax has been the number 1 selling micronutrient fertilizer in the world for years. How can it be that research data from one vegetable and one woody shrub relates to thousands of species worldwide? I believe it is because all or nearly all plants have the same requirement for optimum micronutrient nutrition. To study this question I have grown an array of species of plants with a wide array of micronutrient levels. Azaleas were dark green and thrived in a narrow band of micronutrient levels. The same was true for African violet and blueberry. On the other hand, juniper, arborvitae, marigold, and crabgrass were green and attractive over a huge range of micronutrient levels, hundreds of times wider than for the azalea. BUT all of the test species grew best with the same level and combination. These data support the view that plants have vastly different degrees of tolerance, yet for optimum growth, about the same requirement. Now consider the initial questions raised: Is a plant best adapted to where it is native? If a plant grows faster, produces more flowers and seeds which germinate readily and establish new plants more rapidly in a new location vs. where it is native to which site is it best adapted? The new location of course! This is exactly the situation with the Melaluca leucadendron or punk tree in south Florida vs. its native habitat of Australia. In its native range in Australia, it is not an aggressive, invasive tree. A striking reverse situation exists with Pinus radiata, Monterey pine, native to the California coast where it grows at a moderate pace and is not especially vigorous. Yet in New Zealand and South Australia, Monterey pine grows vigorously and creates magnificent timber. A study of fossils reveals that many plants were "native" to locations far removed from were they are currently "native". Conditions change and with the change plant species shift or adapt. Just because a plant is "native" to a site does not necessarily mean that site and conditions are optimum for its growth. Once urban soils have become homogenized and modified with construction debris is any plant "native" to that site? No, other than crabgrass and then only because it has, perhaps, the widest tolerance of all species. On the other hand, many species have such a wide tolerance that they can grow reasonably well under such adversity. For example, southern wax myrtle, Myrica cerifera, is native over a wide range of conditions throughout the southeast USA. It is native to the almost pure sand soils of the Ocala National Forest in north central Florida, to stream banks where flooding frequently occurs, to alkaline soils along limestone outcroppings and acid soils along the swamps of southern Georgia. This is a species with a huge tolerance for growing conditions, and it does well in nearly all urban conditions. In order to have successful plantings on highly disturbed urban sites, we must look to plants with a wide range of tolerance. Along with wax myrtle, one of the most tolerant and adaptable shrub species that works well is Nandina domestica, native to China. Nandina would be at the very top of my list of broadleaf evergreen shrubs with many attractive qualities and good mannersÂnative or non-native. Nandina has attractive foliage, flowers, and fruits, is nearly disease- and insect-free, produces few invasive seedlings or rhizomes, is easy to maintain, and grows well in a huge range of conditions. Are all introduced species "bad"? Absolutely not. Nandina, lacebark elm, Chinese pistache, Pittosporum tobira, and on and on are introduced species that are well adapted to much of North America that have good manners and make good "citizens". On the other hand, melaluca, tree of heaven, Japanese honeysuckle, kudzu vine, and many other species are too well adapted: grow too vigorously and reproduce too freely so as to be undesirable in the view of current day society. The bottom line is that just because a plant is growing "native" under certain conditions, does not mean that it is at its peak or optimum. It simply means that it is able to tolerate the current conditions and survive. Further, relative to the evolution of the species and the changing local site conditions or site conditions of a much larger region, the species may be relatively "new" and will become more vigorous and aggressive in the future as conditions become more favorable or it may be on its way out because it has reached its limits of tolerance and will eventually become extinct. At this point in time no one knows. However, we get a "feel" for the answer from various experiences. Because of the positive plant response and adaptation to such an array of conditions, southern wax myrtle appears to be still expanding its "native" environment. On the other hand, black cherry, Prunus serrotina, appears to be less and less tolerant to environmental conditions and may become extinct in another century or two. In my view, it would be simplistic and foolish to plant only natives. Likewise, it would be foolish to plant only introduced species. Our focus should be on species adapted to the site and with acceptable manners regardless of where they happen to be "native at a particular time in the glob al picture. ------------ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Carl Whitcomb is author of ÂKnow It and Grow It: a guide to the identification and use of landscape plantsÂ, 820 pages, 8.5 by 11 format, hard cover, over 2000 black and white photos of most of the woody plants, native and exotic, that can be grown east of the Rocky Mtns. $60.00 + shipping. Also, ÂEstablishment and Maintenance of Landscape PlantsÂ, 630 pages, 6 by 9 format, hard cover and many photos. $35.00 + shipping. Phone 405-377-3539 or Fax 405-377-0131.

As far as spacing, maybe consider Dwarf Firebush. Firebush enjoys a variety of lighting conditions (constant shade will make it stringy). The Dwarf variety is not about the width/size of the plant but about he leaf size. The leaves are about 1-2 inches x .5x1inch compared to a standard firebush 3-5 inches x 2-3 inches. It is native hardy and a moderate to fast grower. Does well in containers. Should be able to find at any nursery. NuTurf in pompano sells the dwarf variety (nuturf is a franchise I know in miami). A great place to go is Flamingo Road Nursery, the employees here a very knowledgeable and the nursery is fantastic. I have it near my pool and have no problem maintaining it at a nice bushy 2-3 foot high and is always flowering. http://www.flamingoroadnursery.com/ Here is a link that might be useful: Flamingo Road Nursery

Phlox stolonifera or Linnaea borealis may work. I have no idea how much sun/shade you are dealing with. I am totally surprised by the ease of growing Linnaea. I thought it would need cool, peaty, moist conditions, but it trails like crazy and never flags in the heat. Plus, what wonderful fragrant flowers. Rx