Bon, I'm glad you found useful info in a thread this old. Amy, Bundles of onions for transplanting in the ground at this time of the year are not available because the plants would not grow and perform like those planted in spring. Bulbing onions bulb up in response to temperature and daylength, with day-length meaning the number of hours of daylight per day. We plant our tiny onion plants in the ground in winter when the daylength is fairly low, and they bulb up a few months later as the temperature and daylength reach the right range for them. Planting them when the daylength is long in summer and beginning to grow shorter as the summer weeks pass by wouldn't give you the results you want. What would happen is that shortly after you planted them in summer, they would react to the current daylength and try to bulb up now---giving you bulbs about the same size as the plants you just planted. You cannot plant onion seed outdoors in the fall and overwinter the plants in the ground unless you live somewhere like south Texas where winter temperatures usually stay above freezing all winter. Your tiny onion plants would freeze at some point here in Oklahoma because they usually freeze once the temperatures hit the low 20s. Sometimes it doesn't kill them---they might freeze back to the ground and then regrow, but repeatedly freezing back to the ground and regrowing over and over throughout the winter uses up all their energy and makes it less likely you'll get large onion bulbs (or any bulbs at all) in the spring. What is more likely is that even if you got the seed to sprout and grow and to somehow survive winter's low temperatures, they still would be likely to bolt (form flowerheads, bloom and set seeds) instead of bulbing up in the spring. Autumn is the right time to plant multiplier onions. Most companies that sell multiplier onions to southern customers only ship them in the fall precisely because that is the right planting time for them. Southern Exposure Seed Exchange usually has a nice selection of perennial onions. You can order them any time in the summer, and they will ship them at the right time for your zone in the fall. I'll link their perennial onion page for you to give you an idea of what is available. There are many other sources as well. I just happen to like SESE because it has varieties known to perform in the south. You probably could sow seed now for multiplying onions like Evergreen White Bunching onion. I've only sown seed for them in late winter/early spring but think it likely the seed would sprout and grow at almost any time of the year. Robert, You're ahead of me. I did actually get my seed box out yesterday and flip through it to see what I have, but I haven't planted any of them yet. I will soon, though. I'm ready for fall and looking forward to it as well, but we have to survive the long, hot, summer first. Since I'm further south than pretty much everyone else in OK (Cooke County, TX, sits directly to my west, south and east), my fall planting dates are later than almost everyone else's here in OK. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Perennial Onions at SESE

The most shade tolerant varieties of St. Augustine are Bitterblue, Deltashade, Captiva, Delmar and Seville. Floratine, Classic, Jade and Raleigh varieties also do well in the shade. Similar sounding Floratam and Floralawn are NOT as shade tolerant. All St. Augustine varieties are more shade tolerant than other lawn grasses. Tree leaves are meant to be the mulch that prevents other plants from growing. The leaves break down to feed microbes which make soil nutrients more available to the tree. The problem with live oak leaves is that they are leathery and take much longer to break down, and they smother any emerging plants when they drop in the spring. I have had good results with Holly Fern (Cyrtomium falcatum) under my mature oak. I do have to water these twice a month in the summer in Central Texas.

With all due respect, we all know it has nothing to do with the BBS. Several years ago, experiencing this issue, I called one of the larger growers that sell to BBS to see if I could get a proper ID. The problem is they give a "plant uneducated" person a stack of labels and tell them to put one label on each pot in several flats of the same plant; the worker hasn't a clue if the name matches the plant. This is a case of the left hand not knowing what the right hand is doing. The laborer just does what he/she is told and we get mislabeling. To avoid this problem, they have now gone to the generic labeling situation described by Gail above, "Succulents assorted"; I have several of these in my collection!!!!!!

Yes, Clivia miniata. It is such a popular plant, there is an entire GW forum dedicated to it!! Clivia forum