I'd cut back to twice a week right away and after a couple of weeks go to once a week. But water longer when you do water so you promote deep roots. If you can stick a couple of tuna cans around the lawn, check to see how much you're applying when you water. I think for red fescue, you want to apply 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch of water a week. Red fescue doesn't need much fertilizer and overfertilizing can harm it. That's probably what happened and it may just take some time to recover. in the future, apply at half the recommended rate and only apply once or twice a year (instead of 3-4 times as with tall fescue or kentucky bluegrass).

Western wheatgrass isn't often listed as a turfgrass. Were they talking about western wheatgrass or crested wheatgrass (or streambank wheatgrass)? Streambank wheatgrass isn't normally found as far east as MN, so I didn't list it. I don't like crested wheatgrass very well. I don't like the color very much (too yellow) and the way it lives in low water conditions is to go in and out of dormancy very quickly Western wheatgrass deals with drought by having an extensive root system. So it has to be dry for a long time to go dormant (the native stuff in fields here usually goes dormant in mid July after no rain since the first week of June). It's not without faults, though. It's almost blue in color and has wider blades than most of your other options (with the exception of K31 tall fescue). I've seen native stands here under trees along the road that look like they'd keep it shaded most of the time. Most of this area is either zone 5 or 6, but at higher elevations, it's zone 4 and I've seen it growing there, too (native, no water at all except for snow, early spring and late fall rains). If you want something that is closer in color and blade width to a traditional lawn, western wheatgrass is not what you want, but if you want something that will stay green (or blue, anyway) with no water from the sprinklers, it'll do the job. The fescues will probably stay green in MN, so CRF + sheep fescue might give you a lawn that will stay green for the most part and look more like what you're used to seeing.

K31 tall fescue was basically the only TF in use for lawns until about 1980, when improved TF cultivars were released to the market. Rebel and Falcon were among the first ones on the market, but there were others. I don't know much about fine fescue history and usage, but generally they aren't used in the transition zone for full lawns.

Creeping fescue may be great for some areas and/or desired types of lawn, but I have concerns about mine. I like nice tall, single-blade grasses but I have something that has invaded that turns my lawn into a mat of grass that is all interconnected at the roots. It takes over entire portions of my lawn, and while green in the summer, it dies and turns brown all winter and early spring. Hard to get rid of too. I'm trying to eliminate this creeping grass, and beginning to wonder if I didn't introduce it myself through seeding. Not sure if this is bermuda grass, centipede grass or creeping fescue. Photos would be helpful. And tips on how to get rid of whatever it is. Lots of interconnecting roots..... Thanks!!!