Could Be Honey Fungus Honey fungus is the common name of several species of fungi within the genus Armillaria. Honey fungus spreads underground, attacking and killing the roots of perennial plants and then decaying the dead wood. It is the most destructive fungal disease in UK gardens. Honey fungus can attack many woody and herbaceous perennials. No plants are completely immune, but some have very good resistance, such as Taxus (yew), Juglans nigra (black walnut) and Acer negundo (box elder). Betula (birch), Buddleja, Ceanothus, x Cupressocyparis leylandii (leyland cypres), Ligustrum, Magnolia, Malus, Prunus (except P. spinosus), Rhododendron, Rosa, Syringa and Viburnum are all particularly susceptible to honey fungus. The fungi spread underground by direct contact between the roots of infected and healthy plants and also by means of black, root-like structures called rhizomorphs (often known to gardeners as ÂbootlacesÂ), which can spread from infected roots through soil, usually in the top 15cm (6in) but as deep as at least 45cm (18in), at up to 1m (3 1/4ft) per year. It is this ability to spread long distances through soil that makes honey fungus such a destructive pathogen, often attacking plants up to 30m (100ft) away from the source of infection. Clumps of honey coloured toadstools sometimes appear briefly on infected stumps in autumn, but can be safely ignored because the spores are unimportant in the life cycle of the fungus in gardens. A. gallica produces large and easily visible rhizomorphs quite often found in compost heaps. As a precaution, do not use infested compost around woody plants. To prevent honey fungus spreading to unaffected areas, a physical barrier such as a 45cm (18in) deep vertical strip of butyl rubber (pond lining) or heavy duty plastic sheet buried in the soil will block the rhizomorphs. Regular deep cultivation will also break up rhizomorphs and limit spread. Avoid the most susceptible plants and instead plant more resistant ones. Some more resistant plants include: Taxus, Quercus ilex, Buxus sempervirens, Carpinus betulus, Acer negundo, Ginkgo, Juglans nigra, Nyssa, Laurus nobilis, Berberis, Erica, Garrya, Pittosporum, Chaenomeles, Fremontodendron, Hypericum, Tamarix, Vaccinium, Clematis, Arundinaria (and other bamboos).

Thank you so much! I have compared photos online and it does seem to match pretty closely. Here's hoping I have luck with it. Bought two tree peonies this spring (this one and Yagumo) and both are still in pots. Now the big decision of where to plant here in the Memphis heat. I appreciate your help. Laura

It's hard to tell which leaves are which from your description, but you're right, the leaves from below the graft can come up and look different. If the plant is younger or gets set back the leaves look different, too, since the leaves from the mature or healthy plant are often finer. It could be that the new growth is larger from being set back by your removal of the original growth, but whether that growth was from the nurse root or the tree peony is hard to say without seeing it. You could post photos of the different leaves to help make it easier. The link is an example of a yellow tree peony with a photo of its leaves, but it may not match exactly since each peony has subtle differences in leaves. tagzone5 Here is a link that might be useful: Alice Harding peony

daveinohio2007 Dec.24th Bonnie thank you so very much dave. I will try the site and will in the early year also to get a yellow tree peony seed would be wonderful. Thank you so much, If I had your email I would send you a picture of my peony I have a pink tree one and lg veiw of blooms of peonys and tree one. What a wonderful Christmas eve gift.If anyone has any seeds let me know. Thank you.