Clay soil woes
KatrinaG
17 years ago
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blueheron
17 years agoKatrinaG
17 years agoRelated Discussions
yellow rose leaves, clay soil, please advise me, soil experts...
Comments (15)Lux again, after considering everything, I think the failure of Marachal Niel' to thrive, might be the clone. Because in the same bed, and c. 7-8 feet on- center from M.N. is a 'Mrs. B.R. Cant' that was given to me as a house present in January 2013, it arrived in a gallon pot and was c. 8 inches tall by nearly as wide, now it has grown to be c. 3 feet tall by nearly as wide in less than 7 months. I had planned to keep it in that bed for a couple years until it grew to be about 3 feet tall until I had cleared a strip of lawn to move it to, but it's grown three times faster than I thought it would have done. I'm still moving Marachal Niel' to a rosebed that gets a couple hours of afternoon shade, because two canes are sunburnt at the top of the plant, The yellowing leaves may be due to using Epson salts,this year and last, a tip I read in an English rose book. I should have understood that a method and means used in England may not be a good thing to use in California, because our soil and climate is so different. Thanks again, Lux....See MoreSoil woes continue...
Comments (8)Magoo, yes, I did exactly that in one 4-foot by 4-foot bed. I planted winter (cereal) rye in September, I think. It looked nice all winter. I felt it worked well, since I planted my garden crops late the next year (end of May or maybe even in June). I turned it in a few weeks before planting, basically by cutting down the tops, then taking a straight-edged shovel and making vertical cuts to make a shovel-sized block and simply flipping it over onto the tops. This probably wouldn't work as well for an area where you plan to plant early spring crops, like peas and lettuce. My current *plan* is to plant winter rye on half my garden where I expect to grow beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and just mulch the other half, which will be planted in the early spring (latter part of March, this year) with peas, lettuce, radishes, turnips, carrots. Just for fun I also planted some rye last fall in a mostly unused flower area to keep out the weeds and see what the mature rye was like. It did a good job of keeping the weeds out, especially my biggest problem, ground ivy. The rye there is five feet tall now, looks kind of like wheat to me (not that I really know). I just cut down most of it, though, because there are a few peonies blooming in the middle of it and my wife wanted to be able to see them! By the way, if you try this know that you do not want ryegrass! That is very different from the rye I'm talking about (which is also called cereal rye and winter rye). Regards, --Riff....See Moresoil amendment question [bad clay soils]
Comments (8)Whatever your "landscaper" used for "topsoil" was probably about 95 percent mineral (the sand, silt, clay part of soil) and 5 percent organic matter and what your soil really needed was organic matter. Whether cottonseed meal, or any other meal, would help would depend on the Soil Food Web and how active they were. Things like cottonseed meal need to be digested before the nutrients in them are available to plants and if the soil has little organic matter the SFW is not there to do that. First you need to look closely at that soil to determine what it needs and that requires a good reliable soil test for soil pH and major nutrient levels and balance. Then these simple soil tests may also be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. kimmq is kimmsr...See MoreGroundcover for Clay Loam/Borderline Clay soil and full sun
Comments (2)Ajuga? Will that survive the dry spells--maybe once it's established? Lamb's Ear? There is a range of aggressive groundcovers. Creeping Jenny might be a 9 and you just need a 3, for example. Some of those things we're all trying to get rid of might be just what you want! Good luck!...See MoreIna Plassa_travis
17 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
17 years agorhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
17 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
17 years agomimi_stpaul
17 years agoKatrinaG
17 years agoKatrinaG
17 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
17 years agoKatrinaG
17 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
17 years agoKatrinaG
17 years agolilleyl2005
17 years agolisy_ash_yahoo_com
16 years ago
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