Best way is to look at both! Compare the features, shelves, lighting, temperature controls and readouts. I guess none of the new Jenn-airs have the features my 2006, 48" built in JA has? It has crank up/down shelves in both fridge and freezer, it has 3 different temp settings in the fridge compartment, (Meat Keeper, Chrisper and main fridge), all digital readout and control. It is well lit, both the fridge and freezer. It uses the variable speed compressor, which according to an "Old Post", all whirlpool made fridges do, (alto I would double check that). It has been trouble free except the icemaker falied after 5 years, (heater), a replacement cost me about $135 and took me 10 minutes to change it. Just about all reviews, here in GW, are positive about the KA fridges, so either should suffice, just compare the features and if they differ from the KA to the JA, are they important enough to YOU, to pay the extra money?" Compare warranties too!!! I had originally thought I wanted a 42 inch built in fridge, but I can't tell you How HAPPY we are, that I found an extra 6 inches for the 48", something You "May" want to consider! Good luck with your pending decision!! Gary I

Ah, thanks for responding, lyban :) Well, we need 4 windows because we found a residential ribbed door that is *better* built than the "commercial" door I first found (except for insulation--but it's got a lifetime warranty on *everything* including springs, and is thicker steel--it's the Amarr Heritage 3000, if anyone's interested), and it comes with 4 windows rather than 3. I really wish we could do 3 but we can't. 3 would have made it unique. What I mean about painting the stiles and rails on the Westfield is that what happens a lot is, instead of painting the whole door the same color, painting the raised crosspieces the same color as the house trim color. So it sounds like the many directions of siding and ribbing don't bug you--I just wanted to make sure that it wouldn't have the effect egganddart had mentioned--but now I think it will actually work, since it's not an interruption of the lines of the house but rather a continuation. I guess the flush panels could be seen as more of an interruption, actually, since we don't have any flush areas on the house. lyban, I owe you one :) (and spanky, and eggandddart, and scottmel and kswl and mimi and squirrel and lindybarts and amysrq and so many other folks here -- I feel like my soon-to-be-restored house facade should have a credits page :))

I live in Massachusetts. I echo palimpset's comment that if you have an inswing door with a storm door, you have the same snow blockage issue because the snow would block the storm door just as easily as it would block your outswing door. I have that happen on my back door all the time in the winter (we use our front door as the main entry/exit all the time anyway). When we put in a new doorway to go out to our enclosed porch, I opted for the outswing door for the reasons to have more space in the room and swing out into the porch. We got a Therma-Tru door with a lovely glass panel for about $900. The only thing the contractor commented on about the outswing was the effect of the elements (rain, snow, etc) on the door. I wish I could recall his exact words--it was something about the significance of Therma-Tru's warranty and the fact that it was an outswing door going "outside", usually means that more of the door would be hit by the elements. If it is a door going to the outside, our guy implied that to not impact the warranty, then it would need to have a roof overhang or something to protect it. (If you think about it, when you outswing the door, the whole door gets pelted with the rain than when you inswing the door and the whole door doesn't get hit.) Our contractor said that because our outswing door was going into an enclosed porch, the weather effect was not an issue for us. It sounds to me like your contractor isn't clearly telling you exactly why he's unhappy about the outswing. Maybe it is harder for him to get it to 'hang' right in that location, or maybe it's because he has to do more up front treatment (paint, etc) for the weather protection. I suppose you could voice it back to him as a question "If it were your doorway, why would you install an inswing door in this location instead of an outswing one?" and see what he says. The "snow" argument seems less of an argument to me than a rain/storm door argument. If you can't have a storm door, then the finish on the outswing door is going to take the brunt of rain and might not last long.

Roof pitch! Everything depends on the roof framing plan, based on the floor plan. That said, for Greek Revival houses, there are many variations with the gable turned toward the front and the gable turned to the sides. The more "classic" roofs, mimicking the earlier Greek temples were much larger and wider, but with lower pitch. In your case, with your smaller house, if it's possible, I'd seek a higher pitch from 6/12 to 8 or 10/12 if the plan allows it. It's only roof trusses, so I'd strive for a steeper pitch.