Congratulations and kudos on your effort to preserve local genotypes and ecotypes. It is so refreshing. While I use to gather more seed in the past from my area (just south and west of Minneapolis) I don't have a lot to offer right now: Schizochryrium scoparius(Little Bluestem) from Dakota County(south metro county). I do have a very rigid, compact form of Andropogon gerardii form Ramsey County(St. Paul). This is one I selected from a stand and is not your typical form. I wouldn't recommend it for restoration. Also, I think I still have a pot or two of Amorpha canescens(Leadplant) grown from seed from Isanti County(east of Stacy, MN) and maybe Asclepias tuberosa(Butterfly Weed) from same.

You probably already know about Prairie Moon Nursery, who always tries to use local seed. I do have Lilium michiganense from them. Next fall you can have seed or maybe a bulb, depending on how they do. I could also gather seed of Lithospermum canescens(Hoary Puccoon),Ratibida pinnata seed, etc. from Dakota County and west Hennepin where I live.

As far as expertise on the subject, I may or may not be a resource. I am 46, have a degree in horticulture and have always been interested in prairie botany. As far as the restoration part - only what I have read.

Rick

Another place you could look for contacts would be to check if there's a Wild Ones group near you.

Thanks Leftwood. I do know of Prairie Nursery, I bought a seed mix from them with species native to Trempealeau County, where I live. I own about 10 acres former farm field that is know in the CRP program that I plan on restoring to prairie (a little at a time). I started last fall with about 0.5 acres, and seeded another 1 acre this fall. I got into the seed-collecting thing pretty heavily last fall, unfurtunatly most of my seed is already on the ground. All I have left is white indigo, and Jack in the Pulpit from Trempealeau county. Next year I plan on having lots of different species for trade. I have a good site in Trempealeau county for collecting Amethyst Shooting star (Dodecatheon amethystinum).

I was lucky enough to find some Michigan Lillies growing in an open woods near my house. I collected some seed and am going to try and start them indoors. It sounds like they are a tricky species to propogate with the WM and CM stratification requirements and slow growth. Do you have any advice?

Horary Puccoon also sounds like a difficult species. The folks at Prairie Moon said they stopped carrying the seed because no one can figure out how to get the seed to germinate and grow into mature plants.

I have heard that about Hoary Puccoon and never tried it myself. The seeds are kind of interestingly shaped though: picture a curled animal's eyetooth or a snapping turtle's claw.

Lilium michiganense has what is called delayed hypogeal germination. It should germinate, even without a cold treatment, but growth will only be below the soil line. The first season it simply produces a tiny bulb that will produce leaves the next season.

I think this is what you are actually talking about with the warm/moist then cold/moist stratification. The seed actually germinates during the WM, but doesn't emerge until after the CM treatment. Most lily growers get a year's jump on these kinds of seeds by planting in late summer/fall. There is usually enough time for the bulb development so it will produce leaves the following season.

I would normally discourage indoor growth of any winter hardy outside material all winter long. But since this lily requires no light during the first growth stage, inside is almost ideal. Eastern lily species (Asian) seem to prefer 60-70F. Western species closer to a 50F temp for bulb formation that takes 2-3 months. Then start your cold stratification in the frig (not outside), and then plant outside. Because you're starting late with the process, you will end up planting outside probably in May/June. Not the best time(April/May), but certainly within parameters, in my opinion, rather than losing another year. Besides, if it doesn't work, you'll presumeably have fresh seed to start again at the proper time.

Use the frig because chemical processes that need to happen in cold stratification occur at 32-35 or 40F. Basically, nothing happens below freezing, and nothing above 42ish. Since you are pushing these seedlings through an abbreviated time period, I think the frig is best. There is something to be said about fluctuating temps too. A few one day respites in 45-50F would only do them good.

Judging from my experience with mature plant growth of michiganense, the assumption of slow growth may be erroneous. My plants have grown faster than I ever thought they would. Whether there is actually a correlation between seedling and mature growth I don't know, but you may be surprised. On the other hand, lilies with this kind of dalayed hypogeal germination always grow slower than those with immediate epigeal sprouting, that send up leaves the first season.

Rick

Leftwood, you really know your Lily biology!! Since it seems I found an expert on Lilies, I have a couple of more questions for you. My Michigan Lilly seeds are in a ziplock bag mixed with damp sand, which I put in the warmest part of my house. Can I visually see when the first stage growth has occured, and bulbs have formed? My plan was to then put the bag into the fridge for about 2-3 months, and then start some of the seeds in plug trays, and individually plant other seeds in my prairie. Is there a danger that once the seeds go through the cold-moist stratification that they will start sprouting while still in the zip-lock of sand? I assume they wouldn't because of the lack of light? I started the warm-moist stratification on November 6, so presumably I could still be able to plant during the best time period (April-May). Any tips on planting the seeds outdoors? A friend of mine has had good success with compass plant by CM stratifying the seed and then using a small knife to make incissions in the soil just large enough to assure good seed-soil contact.

So oak_Ridge,
Hopefully your michiganense seed you put in damp sand in early November have germinated. You might be able to see some radicles (the initial main root from the seed) at the bottom of the bag. Be very gentle, and try not to disturb the sand and keep the up/down orientation of the bag the same. Consider setting the bag permanently in something stable, like a bowl, and from then on grab the bowl and not the bag when handling. You won't see any bulb formation unless the seed is at the soil's edge right next to the bag itself. I know you hadn't realized this before, but since this first WM treatment is the actual germination period, and since the sand has no nutritive value and the seed will be making a tiny bulb, I would be tempted to add a bit of supper diluted liquid fertilizer to the sand. Use an eyedropper so your sand movement is minimal. Chances are it will make the sand too wet, and you'll need to leave the bag open to dry sufficiently. Then close it back up for another month. Being a western species, it will prefer a temp closer to 50F if you have it.

Now in the frig as you had planned, still being careful not to jostle the sand. 2 months should be good.

Light has nothing to do with the urge to sprout. Many times I have had various genera sprout while in the frig. It is simply a learning experience. 2 months should be fine, and 3 months is running a possible of danger of sprouting prematurely. Or perhaps someone else has some insight here?

If they do sprout, you'll have to bring them out and acclimate them to high light (inside) or shade (outside). Outside is better.

Plantlets will be too tiny to survive in open ground, let alone with competition with other plants. I recommend pots and bulblets planted as a community, rather than individually. Expect your lilies to remain in that pot, undisturbed for at least one season, and probably two (as I did). Even mature bulbs need to be handled gently as the scales break of easily from the bulb stem. My guess is to plant the tiny bulbs a half inch deep, and as the soil settles and leaves mature put another half inch of soil over.

I am sure you realize now the difference between your endeavor and your friend's with the compass plant. He(she) was still dealing with a dormant seed all during and after the cold stratification. Your are not at either time. So you must be much more gentle with easily bruised tissue.

Rick