Hi Silentway and friends, Thank you for that information. I love LoganâÂÂs and am glad to know of another source. I was successful in my search Friday. I found Soil Conditioner by Timberline(It says Pine Bark Fines) at Walmart- 1.5 cu ft. for $2.98 and Perlite by Schultz- 8 quarts for $3.00. I am attaching a photo- I tried to get everything in one shot. This is my first batch. If my math was correct (kind of rounded it off-I used the 1.5 cu ft of the fines, the whole bag of perlite and an equal amount of peat to that I added approx 13 tablespoons of lime. Now, I wait two weeks and then add the time released fertilizer before planting right? (I dampened it and covered it with a sheet of plastic, it is in the wheelbarrow) -Does this sound like a good recipe for pots for peppers and tomatoes as well as flowers? My DH surprised me with a City Pickers Grow Box- a self watering container that holds 1.5L of soil. I know some posters are not very supportive of this type product (but, a gift and / or support from DH have to be appreciated and made to work!) -Should I make any adjustment for the mix in this container? -I did see Pine Bark Mulch at both HD and Lowes. Am I correct in that it would work but you have to screen it and you end up only using the finer but not smallest particles? -Might as well ask my next question, when I finally plant and start watering do I still have to add diluted fertilizer in the water each time? If so, what kind and how dilutedâ¦I think I read 1/8 strength but not sure if that applies since I will add the time released right prior to planting. Thank you all sooooo much! Now if the temperatures would get back to normal...but at least I am not tempted to cheat, in 2 weeks time it should be perfect. Happy, successful gardening to all, Beth

Cypress mulch doesn't appear bad: A Comparison of Landscape Mulches: Chemical, Allelopathic, and Decomposition Properties Reference Type Journal, Research (Article) This study compared chemical, allelopathic, and decomposition properties of 6 mulches: cypress, eucalyptus, pine bark, pine needle, melaleuca, and a utility-trimming mulch (GRU). [UMN] This study compared chemical, allelopathic, and decomposition properties of 6 mulches: cypress, eucalyptus, pine bark, pine needle, melaleuca, and a utility-trimming mulch (GRU). Eucalyptus and GRU mulches had the highest decomposition after 1 year (21% and 32%), while only 3% to 7 % of the other mulches decayed. Lignin and lignin:nitrogen ratio were negatively correlated with decomposition; high values resulted in low decomposition. Winter respiration of both eucalyptus and GRU mulches was high, and respiration was positively correlated with decomposition. Pine-straw mulch subsided from 9 cm (3.5 in.) to 4 cm (1.6 in.) during the year, while the other mulches subsided approximately 2 cm (0.8 in). Nutrient composition of the mulches was significantly different, with GRU mulch having the highest levels of calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Pine straw was the next highest in N and P. Soils under the mulches were acidified most by pine straw (from a pH of 5.0 to 4.4), followed by pine bark and cypress. In a standard test of allelopathy, all fresh mulches inhibited germination of lettuce seed, and although variable in concentration, all mulches contained hydroxylated aromatic compounds that could have caused these allelopathic effects. After 9 months and 1 year, pine straw and GRU still exhibited allelopathic effects on germination. Cypress, melaleuca, and pine bark retained their color after 1 year, while the other 3 mulches changed to a pinkish gray. [Abstract] Authors M.L. Duryea, R.J. English, L.A. Hermansen Date Published 1999 Journal/Conference Journal of Arboriculture Publisher International Society of Arboriculture Publisher Location Savoy, IL (US) ISBN/ISSN 0278-5226 Volume 25 Number 2 Sub-Topics Maintenance Specifications, Mulching State(s)/Region(s) Florida Keywords Decomposition, Eucalyptus, Mulch, Nutrient compositon, Pinus, Taxodium Libraries UMN http://www.urbanforestrysouth.org/resources/library/Citation.2004-07-28.1055

Thanks for the info. Kimmsr, weird that the peat INCREASED pH. Perhaps it's because as it decomposed and became humus, it neutralized as most organic material does, even if it starts out acid? As far as amending my soil, what about a one-two punch, so to speak? I start off by using some pine bark fines (preferably partially composted, but fresh could probably work) to incorporate into soil to loosen and break it up short-term. Maybe throw in some alfalfa meal or blood meal to offset any potential N deficiency. As it decomposes, slowly, eventually it will turn into organic matter that will do the same thing as the bulk of the fines themselves initially will do, i.e., improve aeration and drainage, at the same time I add more organic matter on top as mulch, probably shredded leaves from the wooded lot next door (most of them blow into my yard) and/or compost of various sources. Now, to Allen--maybe using pure pine bark as mulch on TOP would be bad, since it can be hydrophobic (a good quality, however, incorporated into clay that tends to get mucky wet). What about mixing pine bark with compost or shredded leaves for aesthetics? Would it likely then be OK for water penetration?

What do you mean by soil conditioner? Pine bark fines are often sold as SC, as is Turface MVP and Schultz Soil Conditioner, both baked clay products. If you're looking for an amendment that provides water/nutrient retention at the same time it enhances drainage/aeration, look to Turface or Haydite as a soil amendment. The clay balls might hold some moisture and nutrients, but they won't do anything for drainage/aeration in a bark-based soil. Oyster shells will dissolve too slowly to be of much use & they will likely have lots of salt in them. If you're looking for an excellent grit product for your soil, buy "grower grit". It's a crushed granite product that's available at feed stores that sell poultry feed. Here is a photo of a soil comprised of equal parts of pine bark, Turface, and grower grit. I use it, or a slight variation, for almost all my deciduous trees. It will retain its structure, insuring good drainage and aeration for long after the tree is in need of a root-pruning/repot. Al