1. When you say "truckload of soil" I assume you mean ordinary soil which would be a very bad idea, it would become compacted and won't drain well. The roots would drown for lack of oxygen. You need to use an appropriate well draining 'non soil' organic potting mix. This rule is part of the ABC's of basic seed sowing in containers. 2. "Months watering" sounds like you intend to keep seedlings in trays a very long time, later you mention leaving them in there for an entire year and even worse, counting on them surviving summer in trays. This is also very bad. Trays might serve in a pinch to germinate seeds but certainly not for growing them on, crowded together in such shallow soil as a seed tray would provide. What you want is good root growth and trays would not provide this, that is not what a seed tray is designed for. It is meant for holding pots or cells. 3. Scaling back on water to keep plant growth in check to control size doesn't even make sense. 4. Growing seedlings in a container that has no drainage holes is simply not done. That would result in a stagnant mess, damping off, drowning plants etc. This is a sure way to kill plants even if they are water loving plants. I suggest you get online or find a book on basic seed sowing methods. It appears you are over analyzing and making things difficult along with a lack of understanding of how to sow seeds. Seeds have simple basic needs for good success and your proposal doesn't sound practical or promising at all. Check the seed sowing forum or even the winter sowing forum. Either place will give you better ideas than what you have proposed above.

Cultural Control: Removing Plants and Tubers Tubers are key to nutsedge survival. If you can limit production of tubers, you�ll eventually control the nutsedge itself. To limit tuber production, remove small nutsedge plants before they have 5 to 6 leaves; in summer this is about every 2 to 3 weeks. Up to this stage, the plant hasn�t formed new tubers yet. Removing as much of the plant as possible will force the tuber to produce a new plant, drawing its energy reserves from tuber production to the production of new leaves. Continually removing shoots eventually depletes the energy reserves in the tuber, because the nutsedge will have to use 60% of its reserves to develop the first plant and 20% for the second. However, mature tubers can resprout more than 3 times. Even though these newer sprouts start out weaker than the previous ones, plants can develop from them and produce new tubers unless you remove them. The best way to remove small plants is to pull them up by hand or to hand hoe. If you hoe, be sure to dig down at least 8 to 14 inches to remove the entire plant. Using a tiller to destroy mature plants only will spread the infestation, because it will move the tubers around in the soil. However, repeated tillings of small areas before the plants have 6 leaves will reduce populations. If you find nutsedge in small patches in your turf, dig out the patch down to at least 8 inches deep, refill, and then seed or sod the patch. Here is a link that might be useful: Nutsedge

OP here- there was a nutsedge killer I saw at Lowes over the weekend that was 5% Quinclorac, so that's where I got that from. I didn't pay attention to the other actives in it, so there could be another active in the solution that goes after the nutsedge and the Quinclorac is for the list of other weeds that product targeted. The problem is there was no product that listed both chickweed and nutsedge together. That's what I really wanted. Of course now I think it may not be nutsedge, but orchard grass instead. I used the 2-4D for the chickweed because that is what I had on hand at the house (waste not, want not) and the label claims it will kill chickweed. I agree that an herbicide that specifically markets itself for chickweed may work a little better; however chickweed was on the list of weeds this product will kill. Herbicides/Pesticides/Sanitizers/Disinfectants are all regulated by the EPA and must produce efficacy data on their labeled claims, so I have to think the Bayer product I used will kill the chickweed, unless I screwed up the application. I should know by next week.

Yes, looks like Yellow Nutsedge. Stop pulling, it is ineffective, there's nutlets in the ground and it just comes back. Sulfentrazone is highly effective for nutsedge control, Lowe's carries an Ortho Nutsedge killer which contains this AI. Before spraying large areas, spray a small inconspicuous area and give it 3-4 days, some KBG cultivars are sensitive to sulfentrazone. If no injury, spray away. If you do experience injury, report back.