Wintering cypress in containers

18 years ago

We've had some Hinoko Cypress in pots on our patio this summer. How do I keep these over the winter? In an unheated dark shed or garage? In a warm basement and put grow lights on them?

Our other thought was to actually plant them since we need some new shrubs to replace some old scraggly arborvitae we just cut down. But, these say they need full sun and I am not sure what that means? Does it mean 6 hours? Or, does that mean more? And, can I still plant them or is it too late?

We live in Mpls. so I know we have a slightly warmer heat zone than other places in the metro since I have read tht some people think they will not survive our winters here. If you have any ideas, thanks.

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Comments (5)

leftwood
18 years ago
Hinoki (False)Cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa) are not very winter hardy here. It's not the cold so much as it is something else. And if growers could pinpoint that"something else," we'd all be happy. I would just sink the pot in the ground next to your house on the north side, and mulch it well after the ground freezes. covering the foliage over winter shouldn't be needed, but won't hurt if you want.

They can grow excruciatingly slow, and IMO would make a good replacement for arborvitae even if you did get it to survive. But they certainly are cute!

Rick
julies
Original Author
18 years ago
thanks Rick--

I just realized I also have another option if I just want to leave them in the pots and keep them as patio plants. We have a glass enclosed unheated porch so they'd get some temperature protection and still have light.

I'm confused by your last paragraph. Do you think they would or woudn't make a good replacement for arborvitae? Should I just go out and buy some more arborvitae instead and then keep these as patio plants? Thanks.
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I would think it would depend upon how large the tree is; how large the container is; and what material the container is made of. Hopefully, your container is not terra cotta or ceramic as both of those are cooking utensil materials. If your container is wood, foam or concrete, these insulate the soil/root ball much more efficiently than many other materials. Other, less efficient insulators can be improved by wrapping their interiors with either several layers of bubble wrap or thin sheets of styro foam. You'll effectively be insulating them as you do your roof and house walls, creating an "ice chest" out of them. The air layers created by the wrapping material will help prevent the heat transfer from the pot sides to the soil ball and roots. How root bound the tree is plays a significant part, too. The more soil you have between the roots and pot sides, the better the crown and roots of the tree are insulated. Soil can be an excellent insulator, but root material pressed right against the pot interior absorb the heat from the pot material, literally cooking them. The larger the pot, the longer it takes for that heat to be transmitted all the way through the soil ball, too. I think when the highest heat hits, if you can shade the pot to prevent it from cooking from direct sun, the tree should make it OK with appropriate water. I would definitely wash the upper parts of it when I water to rinse out the dust and debris and reduce any chances of spider mites which can stress the tree, reducing its chances. Water on the foliage and limbs can also help rehydrate the plant. I can't suggest how frequently you should water nor rinse out the tree, but I would do it in the evening so chances of being burned by sun are reduced. Once the worst of the heat passes, as long as the potted tree seems fine where it's grown, you should be able to move it back to its former position. I wouldn't shade the foliage of the tree. Though it will tolerate quite a bit of shade, growing much more slowly in reduced light, it will alter the ability to tolerate more intense, direct sun, so you'll need to gradually harden it off to the hotter, brighter sun. That can be more difficult than just shading the pot from the direct sun, and may easily result in foliage burn. Though your conditions are significantly more severe than mine here in Los Angeles, the issue of overheating the potted root ball and gradually acclimating shaded foliage to brighter, more direct sun, are common in any hotter area. I hope it helps. Kim
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leftwood
18 years ago
No wonder you're confused (sorry):
"They can grow excruciatingly slow, and IMO would NOT make a good replacement for arborvitae even if you did get it to survive. But they certainly are cute!"

Your enclosed unheated porch should be a good place for it, even if it freezes. Remember to water it, although more sparingly.

"Should I just go out and buy some more arborvitae instead and then keep these as patio plants?"
That's what I would do. Hinoki Cypress make great bonsai.

Rick
randyw
18 years ago
I have a Hinoki Cypress grafted or trained as a 3' standard which I planted last year. We sprayed WiltPruf on it heavily at the start of winter. In late winter/early spring it started to brown noticeably, about the same time that some of our large-leaf rhododendrons did. Careful review showed all the browning to be on the sunward (south) side, not the windward (north/northwest) side. This spring we transplanted it to the north side of our garage, where during winter, w/ the lower sun angle, it should be mostly shaded from direct sun. We did something similar w/ one of our large-leaf (English Roseum) rhododendrons. We'll see if that makes the difference. Both plants already liked the summer better where they're at now. So, my experience so far seems to indicate it's the late winter sunshine, while the ground is still frozen, that hurts these evergreens the most.
leftwood
18 years ago
That is so true Randy. The sun is so intense in March especially. Whether or not the actual problem is desiccation from the sun while the soil is frozen, or disiccation from the sun and a cold damaged root system, I have not concluded. I suspect it might be both, and different with different evergreen species.

Rick

Wintering cypress in containers

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julies
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Wintering cypress in containers

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juliesOriginal Author

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julies
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