Hello laubev2002, Sad to say, the flower buds probably have been at least damaged. If they are completely dry and brown, there is little likehood of flowers. Some buds in more protected areas of the plant or beneath the snow line may produce some flowers, but likely not a full truss - the outer buds receive most of the damage from cold, leaving at least some of the inner ones to bloom.

It sounds like you have cold damage, I wonder if your plants weren't well enough established before winter to withstand cold they might have otherwise tolerated...assuming those you bought are fully hardy in your zone. Browned, burned, dried patches on outer leaf edges usually indicates sun/wind burn in summer. In winter during cold weather, the leaves roll under and inward in response to freezing temperatures, and any damage shows in the leaf center (usually elongated patches on either side of mid vein) - the part of the leaf left most exposed to dessicating winter sun and wind. And waplummer is right, rhododendrons often do not bloom the Spring after being moved from the nursery to your garden, sometimes not even the second Spring. Plants you buy blooming are flowering on buds set during their care in the nursery, when you disturb them by planting them in the ground, they will often skip the bud set that year while establishing a root system and adding growth to the framework.

It sounds like Rhododendron Gall Midge. Young leaves rolled and distorted could be either chemical damage or Rhododendron Gall Midge, Clinodiplosis rhododendri, which are 3 or 4 times larger than a grain of Salt. The rhododendron gall midge is a tiny insect that feeds in the spring and causes distorted leaves to emerge. There is no way to undo the damage once it has occurred. Chemical damage should be associated with a chemical application (fertilizer, herbicide, deicing salt, etc.) and should affect more than one plant. Another possibility is leaf roll and droop which is normal when rhododendrons are exposed to extreme heat, or drought. It is a natural reaction that helps prevent desiccation under these conditions of extreme stress. The roll and droop should go away when the extreme condition is absent. Since the same condition can be caused by root fungi which thrive in warm moist conditions, it is important not to over-water. If the soil is truly dry, then watering approximately once a week in normal soils may be helpful. Sandy soils require more irrigation. The soil should not remain wet.

Yellowing and dropping of leaves is normal toward the end of the second summer on the small-leaved lepidote rhododendrons. These should have dense enough habit that this doesn't matter. The larger-leaved elepidote rhododendrons keep their leaves for 3 or 4 seasons. Like all evergreen plants, rhododendrons and azaleas periodically lose some of their foliage, and the leaves may turn yellow, red, or purple before they fall. Often the only leaves that remain are those that surround the flower buds at the tips of the branches. This characteristic is linked to the genetics of the parents used to breed garden azaleas. The degree of leaf coloration or loss is a function of parentage and not the severity of the winter. In unusually cold winters, certain azaleas may lose more leaves than they would in mild winters. Most diseases that harm rhododendrons cause the leaves to yellow, droop, curl, and eventually turn brown, but, oddly enough, they usually don't drop the leaves. Some things that can kill individual branches are: DROUGHT: Drought can cause entire branches or entire plants to die. We have had several years of drought here and we observe that if rhododendrons and azaleas are not watered during a drought some plants will die, but others will just have one section of the plant die. It seems to be the plants way to conserve what little moisture it has. Prolonged drought weakens plants and often results in the appearance of fungal cankers on the branches of older azaleas. Look for branches that wilt in hot, dry weather in late summer and be sure to water azaleas if drought drags on more than a few weeks. Prune out the affected branches to stop the spread of fungal canker diseases. BORERS: If a Rhododendron Stem Borer, Oberea myops, or Rhododendron Borer, Synanthedon rhododendri, is in a branch, the entire portions of a plant beyond (away from the roots) will wilt and die. Borers only affect the portion of the plant away from the roots from the borer. If the borer is in the main trunk, then the entire plant will wilt and die. The plant can be save by cutting off the area with the borer and letting the plant regenerate from the roots. There are no conventional insecticides that will kill stem borer larvae once they are inside the branches. The best control option for homeowners with only a few plants is to prune out and destroy wilting branches in early spring or late summer. FUNGUS: Buds and twigs becoming covered with silver-gray scales is caused by one of the water molds: Altenaria Blight or Botrytis Blight or Twig Blight and is easy to control with fungicide sprays and proper sanitation by removing and disposing of all dead material. Phytophthora cactorum causes the central vein of a leaf to turn brown and the discoloration extends to the petiole on tender new growth. The infections spreads outward from the midrib tissue and the leaf wilts. Infections are more severe on azaleas. Some varieties of rhododendrons are vulnerable (Chionoides, Catawbiense Album, Nova Zembla) and some are resistant (Roseum Elegans, Scintillation, PJM). Control of the disease is difficult. Since the infection goes from the roots to the tips, when you see the symptoms it is too late. To prevent it, use a raised bed with lots of sphagnum peat moss. Prevention with fungicides and careful control of exposure to high humidity may be practical. [Return to Problem Menu] Botryosphaeria dothidea causes leaves to turn dull green and then brown and roll and droop. Cankers form on branches which may girdle the branch. This is the most common disease of rhododendron in the landscape. A typical symptom of this fungal disease is scattered dying branches on an otherwise healthy plant. Leaves on infected stems turn brown, then droop and roll inward. These leaves often lay flat against the stem and will remain attached. The pathogen can infect all ages of stem tissue through wounds, pruning cuts, and leaf scars. Heat, drought stress, and winter injury can increase disease incidence. Cankers on branches can gradually grow through the wood until the stem becomes girdled. Diseased wood is reddish brown in appearance. Discolored wood viewed in longitudinal cross section often forms a wedge that points toward the center of the stem, and the pith may be darker brown than the surrounding wood. Sanitation and applying a fungicide such as metalaxyl (Subdue) after pruning my provide some control. Plants should be grown in partial shade, with mulch and kept well watered during dry periods. All dying branches should be promptly pruned out in dry weather and all discolored wood should be removed. Plants should also be protected from rough treatment during maintenance activities to prevent unnecessary wounds. [Return to Problem Menu] Phomopsis rhododendri symptoms vary from leaf spots to chlorosis and then browning of leaves which then wilt. Browning streaks extend down the stem to a wound. Fungicides such as metalaxyl (Subdue) should control an outbreak. Sanitation and applying a fungicide after pruning may provide control. [Return to Problem Menu] Rhizoctonia solani: causes small necrotic spots on leaves, which later become dark brown or black. Defoliation follows severe leaf spotting. The fungus is omnipresent in the soil and appears to be most virulent at high humidity levels. Microscopic examination of roots and crown are the surest diagnosis. Cultural practices to control this disease include improvement of drainage and avoidance of excess irrigation.