J. chinensis (Lou's suggestion) 'Spartan' might work. I was at Twin City Nursery in White Bear Lake last summer and they had a nice inventory of these at a reasonable price. Here is a link that might be useful: 'Spartan' Chinese Juniper

IME planting garden plants in unimproved woodland soil may be a frustrating exercise. Your yard has a long edge, so planning the whole thing out now, but then executing it over several years in stages will end up giving you the most finished and cohesive look. I would think about design goals as Kevin suggested. Do you want to create a gentle transition between the woods and the yard? Do you want a bazzilion flowers? Do you want fall color or winter interest? Are you looking to reduce the "new" look of your yard? Or . . . ? If you put a single row or even a double row of perennials along the base of those tall trees, they will just disappear because of the height difference and it won't look too different. There are books on woodland design that you can peruse in a bookstore and may be able to borrow from the library, but in general, the edge of a woodland naturally goes from the tall tree layer to small trees and shrubs to perennials and lower growing plants. When I started in a similar situation, I started with planning and setting up a beds during my first year or two. I tested my soil, watched where the sun and shade are at different times of the year, checked out sources for organic matter to make the soil better for growing plants, and found inexpensive sources for plants. In my succeeding years I planted native plants (mostly rooted cuttings and seedlings) suited to the area in unimproved soil area and more finished beds were planted with garden plants. I ended up planting my woodland edge with large clumps of plants rather than straight beds. That gave me "windows" into the woods, but still allows the woods to step down more gradually than simply tall trees to grass. I planted largely for spring flowers and fall color. Possible sources for inexpensive or free plants: - Consider buying a shrub or two each year that can be used to start more from cuttings (this won't work with all plants, but there are some like willows or dogwood shrubs that root easily from cuttings) - Buy small starts of plants from your local conservation service, usually a state or county agency. For instance, in spring I can get from the NH state nursery seed-grown first-year or second-year woody plants for two or three dollars apiece. When planted in a prepared bed, they grow well. - You might be able to collect cuttings or small seedlings from shrubs in the surrounding woods that are local natives and so will grow well, and start your own. I don't want you give you specific plant names since our growing conditions are too different, but take the time to learn what grows well where you are without being invasive, and then plan where you want shrubs, small trees and perennials. - Are there plant exchanges in your area that might be a good sources for plants? (Around here new gardeners need not bring plants and may just take plants.) Possible sources of free or inexpensive materials to improve and add organic matter to your soil: - city compost - tree trimming services for woodchips - horse farm for manure Is there a nature center or university or arboretum that has displays of ornamental native plants in a woodland edge setting, or are there talks or courses you could attend? Are there garden clubs in your area where you can hear other local gardeners' experience? That will help you figure out what critters other than deer might be problems for your plants, and what plants will grow happily in the soil and sun/shade conditions you have. I realize that it may appear that I am raining on your parade, but having gardened on two properties that included open areas carved out of woodlands, I am hoping to prevent you from making some of my mistakes.(Also, since you mentioned ticks, get in the habit of checking yourself, and if you have them, your pets and kids, every time you come into the house from the yard and every evening before bed.)

I second the asarum. I have some and love it. It also looks good with hostas and ferns mixed in. Another possibility is helleborus - lenten rose. It's a good clumper and evergreen. If you truly mean you want something to take over that area, plant liriope spicata - spreads by underground runner and can take any kind of sun or conditions. Never needs maintenance or care - except of course watering for its first season to get it established. Just make sure it can't escape the area and take over your whole yard - looks from the picture like it will be sealed off by the wall, so that shouldn't be a problem. The other nice thing about it is that you don't have to prepare or amend the soil. I just stick it in hard-as-brick dry clay, stomp the soil back around it and watch it take off the following season. I also mow it in early spring before it starts putting out the new growth for the year, but I don't think you have to do that.

Thank you for the links. I will take a picture of this tree in the summer, it should be old enough to flower? I found that Portland has mapped most of its street trees, and they report two Catalina Ironwood trees. But I don't see an easy way to find out exactly where these two trees are, other than zooming the map and panning through the whole city. https://pdx.maps.arcgis.com/apps/webappviewer/index.html?id=b4671f4591144530b1c590731923b182e https://www.portland.gov/sites/default/files/2020/citywide-inventory-report-2017-rs.pdf The tree in my photo isn't one of the two trees, the map shows no trees at this location. Many recently planted trees are missing from the map. The house has another smaller street tree with similar leaves, but reddish, dead leaves. Maybe a dead ironwood but hopefully a different kind of tree. I will take some photos.