Every day, if you have it. I use knee high stockings but only after I've been seen with them in the garden of course. 3pr/$1 at the $1store. Remove both ends of a can, inserted into the stocking while you add a pound or two of compost/manure. Use your fav search engine for many thousand more ideas. Then compile your very own 'recipe'. I don't think you'll go wrong. Good Luck, Gumby_CT

go to a nursery and buy a cheap water meter and stick the probe deep into the planter and water when it reads between moist and dry. Without leaves, keep them on the dry side. As leaves grow increase water to match the number of leaves. You will be surprised how slowly a large planter dries out. Bill

There has been a long thread going on in the Compost and Mulch Forum about what time of day to water. Somebody started the thread with the old wives tale that it is bad to water plants in the heat of the day. Several scientific types provided evidence that this is not true. One guy, who seems to be in the know, said it is important for some less sturdy plants, or young plants, to receive water mid-day when temps are really hot. The thread is entitled something like "Things My Mither Told Me". They all discussed overhead versus ground watering. I've long been a believer in ground watering. The reasons given for not using sprinklers, or watering from above, don't have anything to do with leaf burn. I have to water mid-day twice a week because of my schedule. I have seen no ill affects. By the way, desrtlvr, the Conchas are growing. There has been some leaf yellowing. I didn't know if that was a result of too little, or too much water. I opted for believing the plants needed more water. Seems to have been the right choice. Lorna

> Probably the most important rule about fertilizing is to never feed a tree that is under stress. The causes of stress are many, ranging from over watering or under watering to newly pruned roots or disease. > Once again, it is so very important to know what type of tree your bonsai is. Different types have specific needs as to the type and frequency of fertilization. > Many enthusiasts who have some experience think the safest method, with no fuss, is 4 month type of 14-14-14 time release fertilizer, such as Osmocote. This is incorporated right into the potting mix or sprinkled on the surface and worked down into the mix. > Most broadleaf trees and tropicals can be fed with any general houseplant or garden fertilizer. > Conifers, azaleas and certain others can benefit from a monthly application of an acidic fertilizer, such as MirAcid. > Some growers include hormones such as Superthrive in their regimen to stimulate root production. > Trees should only be fertilized when in periods of active growth. This is generally from midspring through early summer and from late summer to early fall. > If your summers are extremely hot and your trees are outdoors, do not fertilize until temperatures have moderated and growth has resumed. > Likewise, do not feed trees in winter when they are either dormant or growth has slowed down. > Some growers prefer organic fertilizers over chemicals. This is an ongoing debate and much too lengthy to go into detail here.