I live in the Chicago suburbs too, and think your own instincts are great about what should stay and what should go. I think you would like your Sea Green junipers more if they served as a background hedge for the KO roses, and if you used the roses on the other side of the bed in front of the bird's nest spruce, you would get that cohesiveness I think you're looking for. You'll have to remove some of the flat juniper; use it to fill in on the other side where it looks like there's ivy now, put some of it around the tree on the lawn, perhaps with a few hostas, similar to what's under the tree in the third picture. I don't think you need boxwoods too, and the yews can definitely go. I think a hedge of dwarf Korean lilac in the corner nook would look lovely, and smell heavenly in bloom. I notice you have a couple of nice sized mugo pines under the windows on the short side of the house, but honestly some of those shrubs are so sheared I can't ID them. I would keep the pines, and remove the rest. The large round one with white flowers is hiding the great brickwork on your house! I would love to see a mix of interesting deciduous shrubs, like a Harry Lauder's walking stick in between the pines, and a grouping of variegated red-twigged dogwoods on either side of them. I think a Royal Frost birch would be too tall in the front bed, and that river birch or amur maple would be better choices. I would use Virgina creeper to soften the western wall. Hope this helps, and doesn't confuse you more! :)

I suggest you read some info at the following site. It is PA info, but the Cornell, NY site was not as easy navigable. http://tfpg.cas.psu.edu/default.htm You have a wide range of choices, but generally you need two varieties to ensure pollination and a good fruit set: http://tfpg.cas.psu.edu/default.htm fwiw, bare root fruit trees are often priced in the ~$20 range plus shipping, but you wantto make sure you have both the correct variety and rootstock (you will seldom see rootstock info at local sources).

Thank you everyone for your response! I should mention that I don't actually HATE the maple, I just hate that it is so darn big in that area. I was hoping a maple enthusiast would agree that the maple is too big for the area. I would love to plant hastas under it but I get very hot direct late afternoon sunlight. I would like to plant something under it but I need to crawl under it to prune it so I'm not sure what to do. I guess just trial and error. I do think it looks much more interesting now. I'm just wondering what other type of vegetation would look good with it and go with the maple in size. I know I took alot off but I had to. I have to remove some of the branches that are hanging too low to the ground as well. It's my understanding that the top of a maple should drape over but not cover the trunk and some of those low branches extend to the middle of the trunk. Thanks again!

Hi no-green-thumb!~You really do have a lot of hidden potential. It has been a long winter; I am in IL, so I know how different winter and spring can look! Still waiting for plants to "pop" here, although a little green is finally peeking through. I did a paver installation in my landscape construction class. They need a gravel base, and proper grading. Their installation makes them more impervious to water than flagstone, which will heave slightly, so IMO flagstone is not the best choice for a patio right next to the house. They tend to be somewhat expensive. BUT the cost of installation of your existing patio included the flagstone itself, which you still have and can re-use, so don't despair! We have a flagstone patio in the far corner of my backyard, and I think that could look lovely with your forest backdrop. It is really not expensive to do, just labor intensive. Many nurseries have staff that might be able to do the job or recommend someone, so if DIY is not an option, you should get several bids before proceeding. Or, this is what I would do if it was MY yard... I think it would be best if you had a deck installed; one without steps, just a walkout that extended from the corner all the way to the purple fence to the left of your ac unit. Replace that panel with six foot cedar fence panels, to hide the AC from view. To add interest, stagger the fence heights. The deck would have an octagonal cut-out for the tree, and low wide steps to the flagstone path connecting it to the cement patio. The flagstone path would be wider at the steps and narrower towards the patio, but it would be at least three feet wide, four feet would be better. I wouldn't touch the stone edged bed of hostas and ferns, except to maybe trench the edge slightly, so that the stones "sink" and are no longer a problem when you mow. I really dig (no pun intended) the natural stone and flagstone combination. However, the wooden deck and cement patio are both more practical surfaces for grilling and eating, more sure-footed. I agree that the cement patio is one logical place for your existing grill. Since that was also expensive to install, why not re-use it? Have you seen these type of gazebos, they're a great way to define the eating area from the lounging/bar area closer to the house? They are designed to be taken down and stored in the winter. Here is a link that might be useful: Gazebos