Dig the new holes first, as it will be easier. Do a search on this forum for planting trees, or 'how to plant a tree', how to transplant a tree or 'moving a tree', and you should get lots of recent posts. If you keep the trees well watered - do a search for that too, - then they should be fine. And finally, do mulch them. The trees will grow to somewhere between 35' and 50' tall, and up to 35' wide, but will take a number of years - better than 30 yrs. - to get there. You will have to decide if you want - and have room to grow - 2 specimen treees, where the 2 trees grow as far apart as possible, and the crowns can grow to their fullest extent, or if you want the crowns to be able to grow into each other. If the latter, do you want the crowns to only just touch, or do you want the two trees to grow close to one another, so the crowns act as one tree, fairly soon? If the first, then you need to plant the trunks at least 60' apart, as the maximum width (70') might not happen, and won't for a long time, anyway. I'm not sure you have enough room for that scenario. You then have to decide if you want to have 2 trees that just happened to grow into each other, which means you plant them as far apart as you can manage, given the constraints of your yard. Your other option is to plant the trees about 20' apart, so the crowns grow into each other fairly soon and you end up with a single mass of crown. The last will give you a block of shade, the other growing-together option will let you have shade over more of the house at one time. If you have trouble visualizing it, think about the shade cast by 2 ballons, lit from one side, casting shadows on a wall, and what happens if you move the ballons closer together or farther apart. Whatever you do, you want to plant the trees at least 15', maybe better 25', from the house. You will be longer getting a lot of shade from them at the further distance, but you will have fewer problems with branches against the house and roof. You will probably have to limb them up as they grow, anyway, so you can walk and mow under them. And you may have to limb up the side next to the house, to avoid problems with rubbing, etc.. And remember, you can plant one tree closer to the house, and one further away, unless you really want symmetry. If you have help, and a good imagination, then you can take a broom, or as large an object as you can - hang a sheet over it - and have your helper move about the lawn, holding a "tree", so you can squint at it, and imagine what it would look like, bigger and green, in this pace or that.

You might try cross posting this in the tree forum as well. There are people there closer to your location than I. With that said, I have read the OG is more consistent with the fall color further south than RS, but I can't say with certainty that is true, as both color well in my location. I can tell you they both flower in spring, and can be rather attractive at that time. Also cultivars of red maples that have red seed in the spring IMHO essentially add a second color season, so you might want to consider that as well. Arktrees

Attached a picture of leaves close up for nurseryman33. toronado3800-never even thought of the different soil type and digging times. Yes, they are right heights. The University of Kentucky suggested I have "Anthracnose Disease". Too much water. But, this has not effected the Red Sunset Maples..... THANK YOU for responding. My searches are not finding the problem/solution....

In the latter case if you are in an area with unsuitable autumn weather or soils this can affect results with fall color of maples. The Tatarian maple cultivar is selected for use in areas with alkaline soils etc. but red maples do not color well in alkaline soils - and fall color of seedling red maples varies from yellow to nearly purple depending on the genetics of the individual seedlings. Plantings or wild stands of genetically distinct individuals (rather than multiple specimens of a clonal cultivar) can be a kaleidoscope of different colors in autumn. Root damage I don't see as being related. In fact, if you stuck them in using care to avoid root damage that could have been a mistake. The most important thing when planting a tree is to make sure the roots are spread out in the hole and not kinked or circling, and that the same soil is present throughout the hole, with no zones of differing soils. Intact original soil balls are not desirable unless the backfill soil and the soil around the hole all happen to be the same as the soil inside the rootball - not a usual circumstance.