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Minnesota Gardening

endless winter for endless summer

18 years ago

This subject has been out there before but, My endless summer hydrangea just isn't doing much. I called Gertens where I bought it and they said wait for warm weather. It is near the house on the south side so it has the warmest space in my garden.

Back in April it has several new sprouts which died, now it has one and last years growth looks like it might sprout out some day.

Have any of you had any problems like this and did you find anything to do?

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Comments (9)

Carola_MN
18 years ago
My ES on west side of house isn't doing anything yet, but 2 in an exposed area are showing signs of growth, go figure.
zenpotter
Original Author
18 years ago
Thanks for your answer Carola, guess I should be patient a little longer. That patient part is so hard this time of year.
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You don't want to do anything yet. Wait until later in early spring to determine what is truly dead wood - it will be a pale brownish tan color and will produce no viable buds. This can be removed. Otherwise there is no need to prune anything, although with ES you can prune should you feel the need to limit size or otherwise shape the plant. In zone 8, hydrangeas really do not need any winter care - they are deciduous and will go through a typical period of dormancy, loosing leaves and looking like a collection of dead sticks :-) Nothing to worry about. If early spring frosts are predicted, I might consider providing some light cover or protection to avoid bud damage - otherwise you can just let 'em do their thing without interference.
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I'm coming late to this party, so please excuse what might appear to be "butting in." I have struggled w/Bloomstruck for nearly 5 years in my zone 5B CT garden. Only one of several of them has finally performed this past summer and it was a stunner. It's in a very protected spot (by accident) that has a source of natural moisture: practically ideal conditions. Even with all of that, I have concluded that this particular plant just takes a very long time to get established. And if the summer isn't a good one, chances of a rebloom cycle are practically nil. My Endless Summer Twist 'n' Shout is the best of the lot. Blushing Bride is almost flowerless most of the time even after a benign winter. They removed it at Coastal Maine Botanical Garden because of that. But Twist 'n' Shout always comes through for a rebloom cycle. The other one that is extremely dependable for me that is not a rebloomer is 'Lady in Red.' I don't wrap or protect in any way except to spray for deer and even after a brutal Polar Vortex winter, she has always flowered. In fact, she is one of the genetic lines for 'Bloomstruck'. The other line of rebloomers that have blown me away this past season are the 'Tuff Stuff' options. Smaller plants, vigorous, and dependable. But you are right to go with the 'Invincibelle' line. They are foolproof since they flower on new wood. Can't go wrong there. Plus over time they will form a nice colony and some of mine have self sowed around the garden. And I watch the birds over the winter pick through the seed heads. Lots to love about them.
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when did you cut off the spent blooms...i cut off my spent blooms in mid-July (most are fairly papery at the time already), down to the healthy set of buds...feed the plant with a half reco dose of superbloom in Aug, and I have a pretty good second round of flower buds..and they are beginning to bloom now...I am in zone 6b, the plants get a bit of morning sun, no afternoon sun, well watered at all times..maybe the weather in z5 is a bit less friendly for a rebloom season this yr...in my experience, a second feeding of a high phosphate fertilizer is a necessity for ES...ES is a gross feeder, phosphates will do it good.
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You've got a couple of choices. You can do nothing to them now and wait until spring or when new growth begins to emerge and then cut back any obviously dead wood. Since ES blooms on both old and new growth, you can remove pretty much whatever you want from the plant and still expect some blooms. Personally, I'd prefer to maintain the plant at a larger size and with an opportunity for more flowers, so I would keep any pruning/removal to the bare minimum. The second choice is to provide normal winter protection as you would do for any other macrophylla. This will ensure both old and new growth is protected, there will be less dead wood (= a larger plant) and greater potential for flowering. A search of this forum will provide all manner of tips on how to provide this protection. I would refrain from doing any heavy pruning now. Wait until spring and then cut back only what is necessary.
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jenswrens
18 years ago
One of mine got hit by that last frost we had a couple of weeks ago and lost almost all it's new leaves. It's now growing a few more shoots.

My question is this: How will this hydrangea ever turn into a big bush if it dies to the ground every winter? Also, will it reliably bloom on this new wood? (I know it's supposed to, but has anyone experienced it?)
perennialprincess
18 years ago
jenswrens:

have patience. If you notice on the tag, it says it will reach 3-5'. Here in Minnesota, it will reach about 3' and the same spread, a nice round ball ultimately. The 5' size is for those southerners with much longer growing seasons (Georgia, etc)

It will take a good 3 years for your ES to really put on a great root system and get settled in its spot. You'll find after a few years quite a few shoots coming from the ground, and during some springs, some buds shooting from the stems at the base as well - this will depend on how cold the winter is and if we have good snow cover.

yes, it will reliably bloom on new wood. I can vouch for this - I work at Bailey and was involved early on in the introduction of this plant. We have had test plants at the nursery, in our test block since 1987. Expect your first flowers in mid to late June (if it ever warms up and plants grow!). That frost that you mentioned is a big bummer, but it has happened to almost everyone's plants. They'll grow out of it. Keep it well watered, and give it some acid based fertilizer this spring.

good luck. hope you enjoy your ES

PP
jennypat Zone 3b NW MN
18 years ago
Does this mean there is hope for mine??? I live in zone 3b, I planted my endless summer last year, in late July. It is in a spot that gets sun, part shade. So far it doesn't look like anything is happening! I don't know if this helps but my Tulips just started blooming on Mother's day. So I know it is still early. But everything else is up, except the "Endless Summer"
perennialprincess
18 years ago
JennyPat: I wouldn't give up hope just yet - some warmer days would really be helpful and just want your ES needs to get those buds to poke through the ground. I wouldn't lose hope for a few weeks yet . . . . PP
mimi_stpaul
18 years ago
My ES was growing great when the weather was warmer, but my dinglefritz husband cut off last years canes that were not showing any leaves. Do you think it will hurt it any? now that it is again only 4 inches high I have a feeling I may not see any blooms this year.
dentaybow
18 years ago
Cutting off the old canes should not affect it in the least. It blooms on new wood....that is why all the hull-a-baloo surrounded its introduction.
Jan
zenpotter
Original Author
18 years ago
It is alive. It has one new shoot about the size of my thumb.

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