Grass I hope you don't mind...I reran the spell checker and caps checker, fixed a few commas, and basically left everything else the same. I put it into an HTML format for posting here. Grass, please write to me from my member page. Here's Grass1950's message from the link... Credit and apologies to Texas_Weed for plagiarism and following his lead, but some concepts are just darn good ideas and some facts are, well, facts. What follows is a generic calendar of recommended lawn care practices designed to help you care for a Kentucky Bluegrass (KBG) lawn. Please understand this is generic and time tables may have to be adjusted for you geographical location. With the exception of "organic", the use of the term "fertilizer" means synthetic fertilizer, either slow or fast release will do with the exception of the last fertilizer of the season= urea 46-0-0, which, to my knowledge, is only available as fast release and is applied with that property a priority. March through May Mowing Mow when it first turns green or when you first notice growth as the grass comes out of winter dormancy with the mower set at 2 to 2 1/2 inches. Mowing at his height will encourage KBG's early prolific spring rhizome and spreading ability. Practice mulch mowing, aka grass re-cycling, which means simply leaving grass clippings on your lawn. Grass clippings decompose quickly and can provide 1 percent of the total weight of the clippings in additional nitrogen and potassium and another .4% of the clippings weight in phosphorus. That can be 25% or more of the lawn's fertilizer needs. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings are too plentiful to leave on the lawn, they can be collected and used as mulch. Fertilization Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet around May 30- June 1st. This will supply nutrient needs of the grass into the heat of summer and allow the grass to store carbs for survival during summer dormancy. Use a complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf-grade fertilizer with a 3-l-2, 4-1-2, triple 12 or triple 19 ratios (for example, 15-5-10, 20-5-10. 12-12-12, or 19-19-19). Let a soil test be your guide to select a proper ratio of NPK to adjust for any deficiencies. To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of' nitrogen per thousand square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 20-5-10 product, divide 100 by 20. The result is 5.0 pounds of product per thousand square feet. Weed Control Apply pre-emergence herbicides to control crabgrass, goose grass, foxtail, etc. by the time the forsythia are in full bloom. Irrigation In many of the areas in which KBG grows best (temperature zones 4,5 and 6), Mother Nature will often take care of the irrigation needs of KBG in the spring; however: water should be present to a soil depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. KBG needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1 1/4 inches of water. On sandy soils it often requires more frequent watering, for example, 1/2 inch of water every third day. It may be necessary to irrigate an area for 3 to 5 hours to apply 1 inch of water. (It requires 640 gallons of water to deliver 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.) Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate just until runoff occurs, wait 1/2 hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. Best watering frequency for conservation is determined by looking for temporary darkening- bluish gray color, foot printing, wilted, folded, or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems, environmental stress and drought/heat dormancy. Thatch Removal Even if proper water, mowing, and fertilizing techniques are followed thatch can be a problem with KBG. Before thatching, make sure you actually have a thatch problem. Thatch is not detrimental unless it exceeds 1/2 inch. Some thatch accumulation is beneficial as it insulates the roots from heat and helps retain moisture. If needed you may vertically mow or mechanically plug aerate in late March to early May to remove the thatch (layer of un-decayed grass) BEFORE applying a pre-emergent. It is advisable to wait to address thatch until late September- early October or, if overseeding, late August- early September and incorporate de-thatching/aerating with the overseeding. Weed pressure is dramatically less in the fall and the subsequent spring pre-emergent will help prevent weed seed germination. Aerating is not recommended if you have rhizotomatious weeds like poa trivialis or quackgrass--at the very least, those areas should be avoided. June through August Mowing Increase mowing height. If you will be watering regularly (2-3 times a week as needed for 1-1 1/4" of water per week), or in the event of, extended cool and rainy periods during the summer, height should be 3-3 1/2", -the highest height at which the grass blades will stay upright and allow airflow to prevent disease/fungus. Otherwise, mow at the mower's highest level Fertilization If you are able and willing to irrigate throughout the summer, you can apply 1/2 pound of N/1,000 each month throughout the summer. Use a fertilizer with iron content when available. Whether or not you plan to irrigate, you can use organic fertilizers like Milorganite throughout the summer months--Milorganite has iron content which will improve the color and photosynthesis ability of the grass.. Organics will not harm turf during drought and will provide nutrients when conditions are conducive. Irrigation Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines above. If you are not irrigating regularly and allowing the grass to go dormant, you should water 1/2 to 1" every 3 weeks to keep the grass crowns alive so the turf can recover once cooler temps and rain return. Weed Control Apply post-emergence herbicides through-out the growing season as needed to control summer annual and perennial weeds such as crabgrass, clover, knotweed, and spurge. Products like WeedBgone, WBG Max with Crabrass Control and WBG CCO. Similar products with the same AI herbicides usually control several different weeds in a lawn effectively. Be sure the product is labeled for use on KBG. Use Tenacity to control Bentgrass and Poa annua. Apply post emergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Be sure to follow label instructions and note temperature limitations of product if used. Mid August, if you are not overseeding in the fall, apply a pre-emergent to prevent germination of weeds like poa annua and chickweed etc. if they have been present in the yard. Insect Control KBG grass is most susceptible to insect damage from white grubs and billbugs and to a lesser extent to web worms. Check for these insects and control them if necessary. (e.g. Bayer 24hr grub killer) Disease Control Modern cultivars have increased KBG resistance to disease. Proper blending of cultivars and proper cultivation techniques (mowing, fertilization and watering) can dramatically reduce the incidence of disease and/or disease damage. Identify any signs of disease and immediately take appropriate remedial action. If disease has been a reoccurring problem, take appropriate preventive action as and when needed. September through November Mowing Once the dog days of August end and night temperatures are consistently in the 60's, incrementally lower the mowing height to 2-2 1/2" to encourage fall rhizome growth and spreading and to help prevent winter snow mold. Fertilization Once summer temperatures have moderated and the turf has revived (Late August to September 1st) apply 1# of N per 1000 sq ft. of lawn. A balanced NPK is advised such as a triple 12 or 19 to help prepare the lawn for winter dormancy. A second application of N (1/2-1#/k) is recommended October 1st to insure the turf stays green and photosynthesis continues. Once the turf has ceased or dramatically stopped top-growth (mowing is no longer or barely needed), apply 1# N per thousand sq ft. (k) of urea (46-0-0) for winter root growth, carb. storage, early spring green-up, and spring rhizome production. In addition you can apply lime, sulfur, gypsum, etc. if a soil test indicated a deficiency. Irrigation In zones where KBG does well, fall weather should supply sufficient rain. Otherwise, follow the March through May irrigation guidelines.. Thatch, Aerating and Overseeding See March - May above. December through February Build a snowman and enjoy the holidays.

I don't use any chemicals and don't have many problems with weeds. I'm of the same opinion as David in that if you rid yourself of them now, you'll have fewer to deal with in the future. I moved to a new house less than 2 years ago and I'm now dealing with 1 year old beds so I have more weeding to do than I did at my old place, but I'm okay with that. It's not all day, it's probably for less than 10 minutes... and I'm willing to do it because I want a garden and realize that weeds come with a garden. Every postive comes with a negative. Houses and cars are great to have, but they still require maintenance if you're going to be a responsible owner. The same is true of a garden. I don't take shortcuts that are harmful, regardless of what my neighbors, or anyone else, does. I just can't justify chemicals when a bit of labor will do the job well and will be safe. Not to be rude, but it seems a bit self indulgent to risk harm in order to save yourself some time. The key is preparation. Taking extra time when you prepare your beds will save you time in the future. Trust me, the beds I created are pretty much weed-free, even when I'm not dilligent with the weeding... the boyfriend's beds on the other hand... chaos would be an apt word to use.

I am new to iris gardening too but I guess that I am going to skip the mulch though I have a big weed problem also. What I found is that I can weed much more quickly if I just pull out the big ones, roots-and-all, and settle for a less than perfect job by using a hoe to dislodge the rest. I say less than perfect because obviously I'm not getting the roots with the hoe. But, if I keep up with this and get to the weeds before they go to seed, I'm hoping that eventually those weed roots will run out of energy and die. (Or is it me who will run out of energy and.....) On a side note, I've found that if you go into a store and ask for a hoe, in addition to the laughing and strange looks you might get, they'll just say, "huh?" I guess it's called a cultivator nowadays because of the fact that respectable people don't want to ask for a "ho(e)". P.S. If you have a problem with purslane and/or spotted spurge, you will have to use round-up or pull them all out roots and all or all the little pieces will form separate plants (!)

I think Rhizo is imagining you've got more good plants with Old McDonald weeds, here-a-weed, there-a-weed... between a lot of "keepers." If it's more like that, it would be a matter of asking yourself, do I have the time to pull all of these plants up? Some people opt to remove the "good plants" to make it easier to smother large, unbroken areas. Wherever there's a gap in the smothering, weeds are, well, not suppressed, so if it's thin strips between good plants, smothering won't help much. As perspective, in my minds' eye, I see your beds as mostly devoid of desirable plants, with much space between those that would be "keepers." Although I wouldn't begrudge someone's use of chems to establish control, it would be preferable to me to smother where possible. I would define possible as any spot where I can completely cover a patch of weeds with newspaper or cardboard in large enough areas around existing plants so I could cover it with several inches of mulch without having the mulch wash "into" the existing plants. It's not that I have anything against using chems to establish control, but that's only part of the issue. If it's been lawn or neglected "flower bed," likely the soil does not have good tilth, fertility, drainage. Even this type of very basic lasagna can be incredibly helpful in all of these regards. If your dedication and determination extend as far, it's so easy to add other amendments as part of/when smothering. I like to put bagged lawnmower clippings under the paper in case it has seeds in it. (Then when the paper/cardboard contacts it, you've got a good green/brown thing composting under there.) Between the paper/cardboard and the mulch, one can add compost, leaves, whatever seed-free, easily decomposed organic matter is available. When you stick a shovel in later, that fall is OK if you want to add some shrubs/perennials, next year for summer annuals and anything more, you should be amazed by the difference. There's also an impatient form of smothering where one uses whatever they can keep in contact with the soil. A tarp or sheet of plastic, pieces of metal, the bags of mulch you will eventually use in that area, anything that will cover up the weeds until they die. After a time, you remove the cover and see if it's dead. Once you determine everything is, cover with mulch, compost, whatever your plan is, then start gardening. IME with using both methods many times, a smother layer of paper and the longer wait is worth it in the future. The quick-smother often results in the sprouting of many seeds that were at the surface but just hadn't decided to grow yet, especially right where you dig holes to add the plants that couldn't wait until next year, pretty much thwarting your efforts. With options, you can choose the best one, which you may decide is spraying. If so, putting a cardboard box upside-down on nearby plants can be helpful to avoid the mist from getting on them. Try to do when...