It's really simple!! Go buy a 4 feet picket fence sections. Staple gun 1/2 to 1 inch 36 inch high galvanized fencing all around it. Rabbits can't get through there. You can also toss a 100 black eyed Susan seeds in some soil, water and the rabbits will eat them instead. You can plant a few full size black eyed Susan plants and they spread. No need to buy anymore. The rabbits eat the leaves and they grow in thicker. You can also make a surround of rose bushes and anything thorny so they can't try climbing over. Use you noggins, observe whatvrrally needs to be done and do it. Stop killing and trapping wildlife. They have young they'll leave behind to starve if you trap. Plus you need a permit. It's against the law to trap no remove any nursing wildlife. If you really want to block the rabbits you'd build the right enclosure to begin with. In the end spending the money for the fencing and flowers will save you time and money. It'll last for years. Then everyone's happy! Don't build a garden without protection and cry about the wildlife. They were here first. They can't read or know it's " your garden".

We have a lot of rabbit pressure, but we have had minimal garden losses despite having no fencing whatsoever -- I spray the perimeter of our raised garden as well as plants whose leaves I don't plan to eat for a week or more with a peppermint oil-based, non-toxic spray. It smells good to me, but apparently the rodents aren't thrilled. There are some other sprays which use "putrescent egg solids" or garlic which seem to be effective. Some of these are tolerable-smelling, others are horrific smelling to humans...but only for about 2 days, then our poorly developed noses fail to detect the residual scent. Other mammals seem to remain grossed out for weeks. Part of our success is also probably due to the fact that the cats and dog occasionally kill a rabbit. The cats have no interest in squirrels and the dog is too much of a spazz to catch them, but the squirrels don't show a lot of interest in our garden most of the time. We also have voles which the cats kill ALL THE TIME, but as the cats are getting elderly (and we're DONE with cats after these two), I'm going to sink a foot's worth of wire mesh vertically along the perimeter of the garden box I'm remodeling just as a prophylactic for our eventual cat-free future. The dog thinks dead voles are gross and the live ones are apparently too slow-moving to be of any interest chasing.

Good suggestion. It's a great barrier, but doesn't kill many before they catch on. Think of it as a water-less moat. I have been using food grade diatomaceous earth (also called fossil shell flour) for years with great success. But be careful - IT IS HARMFUL IF BREATHED. =================================================================== From Occupational Safety and Health Administration - Material Safety Data Sheet http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/msds/Insect_Dust_msds.pdf : Health Hazards: Signs and Symptoms of Exposure: Exposure may result in coughing, wheezing, shortness of breath, tightness of chest, irritation of the upper respiratory tract and damage to lung tissue. Medical Condition Generally Aggravated by Exposure: Pre-exiting asthma, bronchitis, emphysema and other lung and respiratory ailments may be aggravated by exposure to dust. Possible effects of single exposure: Acute exposure may cause upper respiratory irritation. Inhalation: Irritations of the upper respiratory tract and lungs may result from accidental or chronic occupational exposure to the dust of this product. Dust may also cause lung damage when inhaled. =================================================================== I use this product in limited situations and not applied to large areas where it will blow around. You have to be careful applying it because it's a very fine powder that blows easily. I don't pour it, I carefully use a spoon on a day with no wind, and wear a good N95 particulate respirator (dust mask) with an exhalation valve. I also use it very sparingly in the back of pantry shelves instead of insecticide. Lasts for years. Outside, I use it in rainproof containers blocking the ant path by suspending the item with chains. Using two long stainless steel eye bolts connected together with a 1" tall nut (they're called rod coupling nuts) through the container sealed with silicone. I use washers and a regular nut against the coupling nut to secure the bottom of the container to the eye bolts. To protect the DE from the rain (it only works when dry) I attach the cover (even a heavy non rusting pie plate will do) to the threaded eye bolt with nuts and washers making sure there is a gap above the container. If the cover touches the container, they will bypass the DE. Then, I connect the chains together so they have no way down the chain without walking through the DE. For the container, don't use plastic that breaks down in the sun, gets brittle and cracks. Use a stainless steel cup, doesn't have to be deep, 2" is fine. Similar in size to a 8 oz cream cheese container. Here in So Cal we have Argentine Ants. Very pesky critters that cooperate with other ants to become the earth's dominant ant. My local colony stretches 600 miles from San Diego to San Francisco. Multiple queens, insecticide just stimulates more nests. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Argentine_ant). Since they recognize poison bait after a while, you don't eliminate them. You steer them with DE. They did manage to cross a small 2 inch diameter container (1 inch path) of DE by forming a chain of their bodies to get to a hummingbird feeder. Might have been a fluke though, since the path was shortened a bit by a dead beetle carcass. Anyway, to be sure, I suggest at least a 4 inch diameter container forming a 2 inch barrier around the chain. Don't forget, one leaf touching ANYTHING gives them an alternative path. This includes the chain above the DE, so mount the DE container high above the plants. Also run drippers high above the plants, or submerge drip tubing through the DE in the container running from the chain to the edge. Use bailing wire to secure the drip line so it never moves above the DE. Better yet, run the tubing in parallel with the eye bolts through holes in the container sealed with silicone. As for the subject at hand, I haven't bothered to suspend my strawberry containers yet. They're sitting on the ground. Usually the ants are happy with 10-20% so I just grow more plants. Win win. So far the truce has held, but if they get greedy, I'll up my game. (pun intended)

IT has to be mentioned, if only because people use this method the most. You can trap and poison them. In reality its the easiest thing to do (I wouldnt do that myself, and it seems like you wouldnt either). You could try to invest in some dogs. Dogs love to chase squirrels. Try and look up their natural predators as well, some might be welcome in your yard. You could try to make a mini "hoophouse", which is simply branches/something half circle, stuck in the ground to make a half tube, then wrap that in plastic. If youre worried about excess moisture/heat, then try thick metal window screen. Lastly, you could try interplanting some daffodil witht he strawberries. I think its supposed to detur digging mammals, but the daffodil corms are extremely poisonous to squirrels, moles and voles. They seem to detur squirrels from going into my beds all together. Just a thought...