Dig the new holes first, as it will be easier. Do a search on this forum for planting trees, or 'how to plant a tree', how to transplant a tree or 'moving a tree', and you should get lots of recent posts. If you keep the trees well watered - do a search for that too, - then they should be fine. And finally, do mulch them. The trees will grow to somewhere between 35' and 50' tall, and up to 35' wide, but will take a number of years - better than 30 yrs. - to get there. You will have to decide if you want - and have room to grow - 2 specimen treees, where the 2 trees grow as far apart as possible, and the crowns can grow to their fullest extent, or if you want the crowns to be able to grow into each other. If the latter, do you want the crowns to only just touch, or do you want the two trees to grow close to one another, so the crowns act as one tree, fairly soon? If the first, then you need to plant the trunks at least 60' apart, as the maximum width (70') might not happen, and won't for a long time, anyway. I'm not sure you have enough room for that scenario. You then have to decide if you want to have 2 trees that just happened to grow into each other, which means you plant them as far apart as you can manage, given the constraints of your yard. Your other option is to plant the trees about 20' apart, so the crowns grow into each other fairly soon and you end up with a single mass of crown. The last will give you a block of shade, the other growing-together option will let you have shade over more of the house at one time. If you have trouble visualizing it, think about the shade cast by 2 ballons, lit from one side, casting shadows on a wall, and what happens if you move the ballons closer together or farther apart. Whatever you do, you want to plant the trees at least 15', maybe better 25', from the house. You will be longer getting a lot of shade from them at the further distance, but you will have fewer problems with branches against the house and roof. You will probably have to limb them up as they grow, anyway, so you can walk and mow under them. And you may have to limb up the side next to the house, to avoid problems with rubbing, etc.. And remember, you can plant one tree closer to the house, and one further away, unless you really want symmetry. If you have help, and a good imagination, then you can take a broom, or as large an object as you can - hang a sheet over it - and have your helper move about the lawn, holding a "tree", so you can squint at it, and imagine what it would look like, bigger and green, in this pace or that.

You might try cross posting this in the tree forum as well. There are people there closer to your location than I. With that said, I have read the OG is more consistent with the fall color further south than RS, but I can't say with certainty that is true, as both color well in my location. I can tell you they both flower in spring, and can be rather attractive at that time. Also cultivars of red maples that have red seed in the spring IMHO essentially add a second color season, so you might want to consider that as well. Arktrees

I do much like you do Spruceman when it comes to staking but it seems like we're old and outdated somewhat? LOL! Good luck with the trees Bill. Bboy, I pasted a study with mycorrhizae, bonemeal, etc. Although, what Scott can be construed as possibly being correct, the "myth" conclusion by her is vastly overstated IMHO. She might be correct, but I have serious doubts over the long term. Quote: Mycorrhizal inoculation of organically grown tomato plants Siri Caspersen Department of Horticulture, Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, Box 55, SE- 230 53 Alnarp, Sweden Improvement of plant nutrient uptake and protection against root pathogens by arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) might contribute to a reduced utilization of soluble fertilizers and pesticides in agriculture and horticulture. For organic cultivation of glasshouse crops, regulation of nutrient supply and of the balance between nutrients is a major challenge. Common nutrient sources are green and animal manures together with plant and animal residues from the food industry. The recommended soil nutrient levels for glasshouse cultures are gerally high and based on easily available nutrients extracted by water or weak acids. Thus, for P in particular, luxury levels are common in the soil and the risk of P leakage is evident. When tomatoes are cultivated organically in the same soil for consecutive years, root pathogens may also become a problem. Root colonisation by mycorrhizal fungi in combination with the use of slowly soluble P- sources might be desirable both for bioprotection against root diseases and for a reduced risk of P leakage. However, establishment of mycorrhizal root colonisation is difficult due to the normally high soil P concentrations in combination with a widespread use of peats, which have a low P- fixing capacity, for pH regulation and for soil structure improvement. The aim of the presented work was to investigate the influence of organic and slowly soluble fertilizers and of inoculation with AMF on mycorrhizal root colonisation and on plant growth and nutrient uptake of tomato (Lycopersicon esculentum cv. Delito) plants grown until planting stage (six weeks after sowing) in soil- or peat- based substrates. In sterilized soil: sand (1: 1, v: v) amended with apatite and bonemeal, we observed a strong plant growth response to inoculation with an isolate of Glomus intraradices. Plant growth was lower and the mycorrhizal response stronger in pots where the slowly soluble Psource apatite was added alone in comparison with pots where apatite and bone meal were added together. Mycorrhizal root colonisation and sporulation were reduced by the addition of bone meal. The positive response of plant growth and nutrient uptake to mycorrhizal inoculation in the soil: sand was probably related to an increased P uptake of the mycorrhizal plants. The effects of inoculation with Glomus intraradices (BEG87) and addition of bone meal and/ or blood meal were investigated for tomato plants grown in a substrate containing mineral soil and peat (4: 1, v: v). Root mycorrhizal colonisation was high (60- 80%) in pots containing either bone meal or blood meal or none of them. When both fertilizers were present, however, AM fungal colonisation was reduced. Inoculation with G. intraradices increased shoot dry weight in comparison with the uninoculated plants for all fertilizer combinations, and in particular for blood meal alone where no growth response was observed for nonmycorrhizal plants. It is possible that an AMF- mediated increase in plant the uptake of P was necessary for a positive effect of blood meal on plant growth. As the mineral soils in the substrate had been partly sterilized, however, introduced microorganisms were probably quite important for the mineralisation of bone and blood meal, and effects of other microorganisms associated with the AM fungus on plant utilization of the organic fertilizers can not be excluded. End quote. I felt bad because I didn't at least give you a reason for my cynical opinion of Scott.

I can't be of much help other than my books. Here's what Jacobson, Arthur Lee says and he's opinionated: Acer rubrum 'October Glory' PP2116 (1961) Introduced in 1961-62 by Princeton nursery of New Jersey. Leaves with long red stems; stay green longer than usual into autumn, extending the seasonal display, giving dependable late-season crimson-red fall color. Tree rounded, not dense. Female. (Females Produce Seeds which = weeds) 'Red Sunset' Acer rubrum Originated in the late 1940's by Schmidt nursery of Boring, OR. Introduced in 1966. The most commonly planted Red Maple cultivar in the 1970's and '80's. The name was inspired by the song "Red Sails in the Sunset." Its fall color, at least in the north, is long-lasting and superb orange-red. The tree makes a broadly oval crown. Leaves glossy, thick, strongly three-lobed. Female. Here are some other interesting sounding ones to me: 'Drake' Acer rubrum: Named after Virgil James Drake of County Line nursery, Hartford, MI. Introduced by Schmidt nursery of Boring, OR. Tree of normal growth rate, its crown fairly natural-looking, not markedly round or pyramidal. But its fall color begins very early and goes through changes lasting a long time: distinctively turning from green to a colored border through shades of blue-violet to red and yellow. He doesn't list a favorite. Dax