Those aren't "tricks" but different types of stratification. I'm aware that different seeds require different types of stratification: scarification (nicking, scratching the outer covering), soaking or using acid to emulate natural wearing/decomposition or in the case of certain seeds even being exposed to fire/extreme heat. In all these cases the reason is usually fairly obvious; in order to allow moisture, etc. to penetrate the outer coating. My question pertains specifically and exclusively to "Cold stratification". By "tricking seeds" I'm wondering if the seed can be "fooled into thinking" it's been dormant a season or two though, in actuality, they've only been in the freezer/refrigerator for a week or so. If it is merely a matter of expansion, contraction, cold-induced cracking --- a transition from one state to the other and back--- one day'd be as good as 90. I always do (usually fairly extensive) research before posting on any forum. On this subject, I mostly found answers to the "what is?s" and "how?s" but not so much the "why?s". Here I thought I might find others with anecdotal experience from experimentation. Just as one example, right now I have a large patch of Cilantro/Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) that, though I grew it in order to use the (Cilantro) leaves, has already gone to seed. There's still plenty of growing time left this season. It'd be nice if I could harvest this year's seed, do a "Quickie Cold stratification", plant and get a second crop this year. This is an experiment I plan to be trying .

Hello Coolplants (I got it right this time), to my rescue again. I'll be glad to get a headstart on this perennial and have blooms next summer. Thank you again. Northerner.

Its difficult to say without knowing the particular varieties of seed you are sowing. Gibberlic Acid-3 is for seeds that are difficult, usually shrub or tree seeds. J.L. Hudson indicates which seeds have several conditions which must be met to unlock dormancy and the catalog indicates the ones that would benefit from treatment. I just planted a mixed package a couple weeks ago, some needing cold stratification. I usually sow in fall which is best around here but I picked up this batch rather late. I did cull out the lupine seeds from the pack and soaked them for 24 hours in hot water but other than that, I just went ahead and sowed the seeds. I expect good results. Our days fluctuate from the upper 60's to below freezing but the nights are cold. Here we have more days that are mild rather than very cold. Needing cold is a natural safeguard to prevent the seeds from sprouting in summer or too early, some seeds only need cold temps while others need a period of cold, the time required varies from one type to the next. If you are worried or you expect your weather to be more warm than cold until spring, you could mix the seed in damp vermiculite or sand and keep them in the fridge and then sow in spring. Below is a sowing chart that gives conditions for many different seeds. Here is a link that might be useful: http://tomclothier.hort.net/page02.html

I have not had s lot of success sowing seeds, but last fall I decided to try again and to leave cold stratification up to Mother Nature. I planted one half of my wooden flat with Ratibida pinnata seeds and the other half with Echinacea pallida seeds. I left the flat on the corner of my wood deck all winter and last week I noticed about a dozen cotyledons on the Ratibida side of the flat. Wow, I am quite jazzed about this. But no sign of the Echinacea yet. Of course, it's the Echinacea pallida that I really want to mass plant in the garden. I await......