I agree with David, there are alot of variables to this damage. Here in Atlanta we got down to the high 20's for the first night, and it appeared things werent to bad. But the next night we dropped to the low 20's and the next morning it was obvious what was damaged, and it was most of it. After looking around last weekend, it seems quite odd which trees got it. I have over a thousand seedlings growing, most smaller than a foot, a few up to 4 ft. They are a mix of reds and green palmatums, burgeriums. They are in about 6 different locations. The damage is different from location to location, but even different within the location. One green has lost everything and is turning black, while one next to it lost all leaves, but it starting to bud back. It appears the ones that are turning black, got some internal damage in the cambium. I would have thought some of them which were partially shileded by other maples would have fared better. But side by side one will be a goner, while a brother seedling next to it is coming back. It is very strange. Like David, it is hard to ascribe partucular cultivars, especially when it appears so random. Most of my trees has been out for weeks, so i think most of my primaries buds are gone, which is why it is taking along time to see any bud push. I can say my 'Sangu Kaku's (Davids favorites, LOL) are coming back strong, but they were 6 and 10 ft and very healthy. My 'Wilson Pink Dwarf' and 'Chisio' didnt hardly lose any leaves, while a nice healthy red palamtum 6 ft by 6 ft is totally devastated. Most Laceleafs have lost all leaves, but starting to see a few buds pushing. Two yatsuba forms are little lollipops with brown dry leaves, but also see some buds pushing on them. 5 ft 'Sieryu' lost many leaves, but seems to be coming back. 7 ft 'Butterfly' loas all leaves, but pushing some. 7 ft 'Kara su Gawa' looks bad, havent seen any buds yet. 5 ft 'Purple Ghost' toast no buds yet. 5 ft 'Fireglow' and 'Moonfire' loast all leaves, but appear to be pushing more buds. 3 ft 'Toyama Nishiki' not looking good. Basically it was all over the place. After driving up to the mountains sunday, i noticed it is very sporadic all over. Micro zones playing a big role, along with the state of the trees spring stage. Our oaks were leafing out, and were damaged badly. A look up into the mountains gives an almost end of fall loook to it. Hopefully none of us will ever see anything like this again here in the states or in Europe where you are Gomero. It gives me nightmares to think what it would be like to have a large mature collection like njacer and others. Mike

I don't know where you got your info Katrina on the Sango Kaku Japanese Maple. The Sango Kaku loves the sun,you don't have to water that often. When I lived in Fl. i grew & sold them for a living. I had 47 Sango Kaku at one time. I would sell them when they were in 7-g for 229.00 & they would all be gone in a week to 2 weeks. Never longer than 2 weeks. I also had Bloodgood Japanese Maples. The Bloodgood does not like to be in full sun all the time. I now live in Greer,S.C. & have lived here for 10 years. I still sell Bloodgood & Sango Kaku Japanese Maples. I have no problem with our cold weather,clay & we have hot summers. I myself have 2 each & put them in the ground when they were in 7-g. The Sango Kaku are close to 9 to 10 feet & the Bloodgoods are8 to 9 ft. I water them in the summer maybe every 10 days. I just pruned my Sango Kaku. Not much. I have seen people ruin many types of Beautiful Acer's & especially Crape Myrtles. They cut all the stems the same length. I cut them different sizes. If not watered to much or not enough you can tell by some simple rules. If planting from a container, loosen the root ball before planting.if the rootball is planted the shape of the container,new roots are not encouraged into the soil. 2if the root system is brown & mushy ,the soil did not get enough oxygen. This is caused from over watering.3do not cover the top of the original rootball or the bottom part of the stem, plant will not get enough oxygen.4if leaves droop or turn yellow or brittle &brown,the plant is not getting enough water. When watering,water deeply & less watering just small amounts.soaking the entire root system encourages the root system to go deeper. Not enough water the roots will grow up searching for water.5 Shriveled bark on stems,is a good sign of over watering. The stem tips can also be brown or black or supple brow leaves . Brittleness is caused from dehydration because the root system gets damaged & cannot send water up to the stems. I have grown different types of Acer's & also spent lots of money on books & plants,seeds & grafted many plants.i hope this helps. I also grow many varieties of Bonsai. Good Luck & Have Fun Gardening,To Me It Is The best Way Of Relaxation. , ,

The mulch is very thin, not even completely covering the soil. Whose to say mine won't eventually bite the dust. It can still happen and I kind of expect it. I feel like I am on borrowed time. Remember, the first pic is damage from two falls ago as it looks now. There was splitting, peeling and lifting completely around the trunk and as you can see and pretty far into it - notice the gray wood. It continues today all the way up into the branching now. I don't think you have more damage but there are a few differences between our trees. One obvious difference is our zones. Another big difference is the maturity. I bought mine in the late nineties as a small whip meant for mail order. It has been in place since then so the roots are more established. However, yours has more mature bark than mine. Mine just only lost the red color at the stem about the same time as the damage was noticed. I don't have plates and furrows yet. As far as substitutions, I am not a JM expert but there is certainly no lack of them. There are so many beautiful trees. The only reason I grow this variety is because of the winter presence which is strong. The stems are redder than my dogwoods. It isn't my favorite leaf or shape tree if I had to run it against other maples during the other seasons. OK, I know I have a pic somewhere of a more mature tree at the NYBG during winter - it is stunning. It will take a little time, I know I keep promising these pics but I will try to find it before the weekend is over. They are on another computer. BTW, I am not trying to talk you into keeping the tree if you want another one. I can't blame you. I would probably want to move it too even though at this point it would make things worse. I am only comparing our plants. Even though mine didn't die, doesn't mean yours won't. Just offering a possibility that it might not. I wonder what your warrenty was on this plant? I know most places are one year but once in a while, the more expensive nurseris offer more time.

Nibbling back could've been for scionwood. Will grow as vase, rather narrow. Old bark ugly. You could cut it back periodically, grow it as shrub if it has enough vigor to come back well each time. Wound on trunk could be serious, like other Japanese maples these are prone to fungal/bacterial problems. Painting wound with copper might help, but this would no doubt depend on what, exactly is going on.