Hi - Absolutely the first thing you need to do is get it outdoors - for life - because it won't last a week inside. But put it in light shade vs full sun and somewhere that it won't get rained on beyond a light mist because until it's switched into proper bonsai 'grit' (fast draining stuff - more on it later) it'll drown in that goop it's in. Maples need to get dry almost all the way through the pot between waterings but it looks like yours is in potting soil - which is full of peat and acts like a one-way sponge (soaks it up but won't let it go and then roots rot). Your tree, in fact, will do light years better, and grow much faster - giving you lots more styling options for the future - if you plant it into the ground for 3 yrs. Sounds drastic to a newbie, but what you have now is not a bonsai but a stick in a pot. You want the trunk to thicken up and eventually you'll lop off the whole top half of the tree (not this year) and new smaller branches will grow in which, together with the fatter trunk will give the illusion of an old tree. There's a lot more to it, and you need to find out about the mix it should be in (but do NOT repot now as it's not at all a good time of year, so you'll have to be careful about watering - enough when you do do it, but only when it's needed (and water-loggedness can look just like dryness when leaves curl if you've already given it too much). Go to bonsai4me.com and start reading there plus most of the forums on bonsaisite.com for better input (more people).

I'd suspect you are simply looking at transplant shock. June is not a great time of year to plant a JM in the midwest and some negative reaction from the tree is to be expected. Just keep it properly (but not overly) watered and it should produce some replacement foliage. If you could contrive some sort of midafternoon shade until the tree becomes established, that would probably help a lot. Red Select is quite sun tolerant once established.

I think the other writers are correct ...with proper planting in a protected place you should be ok with several differnt dissectums but NOT all. Most nuseries carry crimson queens in my area and they wouldn't if they were taboo for this 5b area cause they have 1 year guarentees. I have a ten year old cut leaf dissectum that's about 6 ft yall and wide weeping nicely with no winter dieback even though we've had several -20 degree winter spells. I don't remember it's name so I can't help you there . I do know the green dissectums seem to be hardier although this one is a red one ...at least til this year when the trees around it shaded it too much ( if you want color you'd better put it in a protecterd area with at leas 6-8 hours of summer sun )I've since trimed back the sorounding vegitation so next year it will be RED.If you are interested try www.davesgarden.com and search japanese maples for your zone under plants,japanese maples the site has many knowlegable folks and a forum specifically for JM's David

That looks.... well....... odd. I do like the golden and red pairing, but you shouldn't prune it that way. Thin out all crossing branches, remove all dead branches, remove whole branches to the lateral branch or branch collar. Then, proceed to thin the branches to make it look more light and airy. Also, please provide a photo of the mulch around the trunk.