Pictures are usually needed but I think you have identified the culprit - fungal disease. I live in San Antonio, TX. I believe we have a similar issue with chemical fungicides. They must be applied when the temperature is not going to be above 80 degrees and no rain or irrigation for 7 days. Well, when is that??? January 3rd??? I had given up on finding a solution when I heard a guy on the radio suggest using ordinary corn meal on plants with fungal disease. I tried it on a rose plant and it was cured in a week. Nobody was more surprised than I was. Next week I listened to that radio guy for 3 hours. That day I went out and bought 50 pounds of corn meal at my local feed store. The rest is history. Since then I have never been afraid of a fungal disease. I have watched my garden carefully and have even identified the cause of my fungal disease issues. It is my wife leaving garden clippings on the lawn for a few days. Dew forms and the normal air flow is choked off by the pile of clippings. She had one favorite place to put the clippings so I just pretreated it with corn meal every spring. Now I have her putting them in the compost pile or on the concrete until they can be disposed of. The application rate to get rid of disease is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. You should apply to the entire lawn so you don't end up with green spots where you applied it. Corn meal is an organic fertilizer, too. Having said that and rereading your original message, if you have already used a fungicide, then corn meal may not work. Corn meal relies on the fungal health of the soil. If you have sprayed a fungicide then you have no fungal health left. You might want to apply compost first. Give the compost 2 weeks to work and then use corn meal. Then give the corn meal 3 full weeks to work. I would reapply after 3 weeks whether you have seen progress or not. The second app at the third week will thrive on the back of the first dose and should supercharge the antifungal effect. Most people wonder how corn meal works to kill fungus. The original TAMU work showed that corn meal contributes to the growth of the Trichoderma fungus. Trichoderma is a naturally occurring, predatory fungus that feeds on the cellular structure of other fungi. Normal soil has Trichoderma but not in high populations. Corn meal is decomposed by another fungus that multiplies the population of Trichoderma.

You know what sugar is good for? Killing bacteria. That's why it's a traditional ingredient in preserves and why honey is a good antibiotic for wounds. How this would benefit soil is beyond me. And no, dishwashing soap is not the same or as good as insecticidal soap. The latter is actual soap, for one thing. Soap works by making things slippery. Dish soap is detergent. Detergent helps break up waxy materials. Waxy materials are what plants use to help protect themselves from insect predation. So what would you rather have on your plants? Something that helps encourage insect predation or something that doesn't? Jerry Baker is full of penny wise and pound foolish "remedies." If you follow his directions, you will be putting something on your plants every two weeks. Talk about work.

Please forgive me.I had no idea when posting this that I was infringing on copyright laws. If anyone is interested in any of these tonics,feel free to e-me directly and I will respond. I didn't intentionally mean to post copyrighted stuff. Breezy

The best and safest way to eliminate weeds in a vegetable garden is to mulch heavily with newspaper or cardboard or other organic mulch. I personally don't use any herbicides anywhere near where I grow veggies. Commercial growers use them but the home gardener is better to use organic controls. I also try to stay away from chemical fertilizers, not so much because I fear them as unhealthy but because they are so incomplete. The soil needs lots more than just nitrogen, phosphate, and potassium and that's the basis of many fertilizers. Lots and lots of homemade compost is usually enough to keep most plants growing well. A soil test from a reliable laboratory will tell you if your soil is deficient in any one particular nutrient and how much you need to apply. To become a Master Gardener, you need to contact your local cooperative extension office and find out if they have the program in your area. If so, you will need to attend a series of classes and then give back a required number of hours volunteering in your community as a Master Gardener. It's lots of work but extremely rewarding. The link below will lead you to your local extension office. Here is a link that might be useful: Extension offices index