Onion plants can take a fair amount of abuse and still perk up once you put them in the ground. If the brown is just a leaf dying back, they are still fine. If you're talking soft, stinky brown rot spots in the main tissue then they probably should be composted. And yes, if space is an issue interplanting the beets near the tomatoes is one of the ways to work it out nicely. You will likely pull the beets before the tomatoes are big enough to need the space the beets are in. Cheers!

By the way, the seeds are White Japanese Rose Rosa rugosa 'alba' Red Japanese Rose Rosa rugosa 'rubra' Father David's Rose Rosa davidii Father Hugo Rose Rosa hugonis The Rugosa's say they hip very well, will the others do the same? Can you grow them by stem cuttings? Can I pollenate and collect there pollen for Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and those types of roses?

The issue is are they hybrids or heirlooms/open pollinated varieties. If they are hybrids then the seeds you save won't breed true. Hybrid seeds in the packet are the result of manual cross-pollination of at least 2 parent varieties. The seeds saved from those hybrid plants once grown, will revert to the parent stock or some strange combination of them. If your seeds planted and grown are heirlooms or open-pollinated plants, not hybrids, then yes you can save the seeds and re-grow them. Depending on what the plant is - self-fertile like tomatoes or insect pollinated like most flowers, they may or may not grow true. In some cases, like hollyhocks you will still get lots cross-pollination by insects so your saved seeds may change color etc. It all depends on how much you care whether or not the seeds you saved breed true or not. Many don't care, many do. Some research on cross-pollination will explain this in more detail. ;) Dave

Wait until fall, and check the 10-day weather forecast to make sure a late heat wave isn't on the way. ===>>> good idea .... but the key in MI .. for me anyway ... is a cool tending toward cold night... to offset whatever the day may bring .. so tending toward mid to late sept ... IN MY MI .. nights are dipping into the 50s ... and thats great .. we often talk about a recovery period at night ... i can go as late as the end of october ... only limited by how cold i want my hands to get in cold soil.. and dragging hoses around ... and putting away hoses.. so they dont freeze solid and burst ... i am sure.. as you go up zone.. you add weeks.. if not plant all winter long ... as sara noted.. dormant is best ... and that is around when the leaves of other trees are turning.. subject to yours being potted ... a dormant tree.. needs little water.. compared to an actively growing tree ... and it gives the plant months before the heat of next summer ... to get those roots settled.. to be ready ... ken ps: pots can go dormant earlier.. if nights are cold.. and the media loses all its heat every night ... or go dormant later.. because the pots stay warmer ... but exact specificity isnt all that big a deal ... its sunlight levels that trigger dormancy ... and as the sun declines for winter.. so do the plants ... temps are probably secondary ...