I agree with Buford that moving it to a shadier spot will help under normal conditions. This is one hell of a year though that I wouldn't consider normal (at least I hope it's not becoming normal). I have an established hydrangea that's been in place going on 4 years now. It's almost in entirely full shade with just some brief early morning sun. It's always been very happy where it was but this year has been too brutal. I have too much else to baby that I can't really spend time watering it so it's wilted every every time the thermometer hits the 90's even in nearly full shade. The sheer heat is just too intense right now. Sorry I don't have an answer for your question about the drain line. Squirrellypete

Is the potting mix wet/soggy or dry? If wet, needs to dry out. If dry, it needs water. Does the pot have a drain hole? If not, shift it to one that does. Is that bulb putting out heat? If so, turn it off. Good luck.

There are various reasons plants wilt, and since you are the only one who knows the nitty gritty details about the type of soil you have, how often you water, how deeply you water, etc., all we can do is suggest possible causes and you'll have to evaluate your plants and practices and figure out which one it is. First of all, it has been exceptionally hot and the sunlight is very intense at this time of year, so heat stress is a possibility. If your plants wilt during the heat of the day and then begin to perk up in the late evening around sunset, then heat stress is the likely culprit. Secondly, if you are watering very heavily and have heavy soil containing a lot of clay, you could be overwatering. Plants that are too wet will wilt the same way that plants that are too dry will wilt. Check your soil by sticking your finger down in it. If it is sopping wet, you may be overwatering for the type of soil that you have. Third, if you have very fast-draining sandy soil, you may be underwatering. For pumpkins, you want to water deeply because their roots can go quite deeply. Fourth, it could be one of the bacterial diseaeses spread by insects. If so, you should be seeing some discoloration on the leave and also you'll see some wilted leaves that don't recover overnight. Fifth, it could be squash vine borers on the pumpkins and, more rarely but occasionally, on the cucumbers as well. With the tomatoes, we don't know enough about their plants and your plants to know why their plants are producing tomatoes and yours are not. There are a lot of possibilities, including the following: DAYS TO MATURITY: Different Varieties Have Different "Days To Maturity": Every tomato variety has different days to maturity and it varies wildly. If it takes your variety 80 days to mature, and theirs 60 days to mature, they could be part of it. It is more complicated than that though. The recommended planting dates for spring tomato plants in Oklahoma are April 10-30, so you planted at least a month late, and that really matters with some varieties, though not as much with others. SIZE OF PLANTS: It could be you set out a younger, smaller plant that wasn't physically ready to bloom and their plant was older and closer to being ready to bloom. It could be their plant had already formed blooms while at the wholesaler or retailer. TYPE OF PLANT: Y'all may have different types of plants....theirs could be an inderminate that sets fruits all along as it grows, and yours could be a determinate that sets a lot of fruit at once. Theirs could be a cherry, grape, currant or small pear-sized type of tomato and yours might be a full-sized large slicing type. If so, the large tomatoes have trouble setting fruit (see 'pollination' paragraph below) in higher temperatures than the smaller ones do. POLLINATION ISSUES: In general, most large, slicing-type tomatoes will bloom and form fruit only as long as daytime highs remain below about 92 degrees (up to 95 degrees for some varieties) and nightime lows remain below 72-75 degrees, but above 55 degrees. So, depending on where your plants and their plants were grown by the wholesaler and kept by the retailer, that could account for the difference. When I buy plants, I like to buy them early in the season when they haven't been sitting outside baking on hot concrete sidewalks, parking lots, etc. Once temperatures are high, the pollen inside the flowers loses viability and blossoms will form, fail to pollinate, and fall off. Once again, different varieties perform better at different temperatures. It could be that theirs don't mind the hotter temps as much as yours do. TOO MUCH NITROGEN: If your plants are lush, green, and have tons of foliage but are failing to flower and set fruit, there is a good possibility they've been overfed nitrogen. When plants get too much nitrogen, they make leaves and don't make fruit. Tomato varieties are highly variable and even two or more plants of the exact same variety will not peform exactly the same. I planted 85 tomato plants representing about 45 or 50 varieties and no two of them have behaved the same. Some have produced tons of tomatoes while others haven't formed a single fruit. Some made a lot of tomatoes early on and we are already harvesting those tomatoes while other plants have only recently formed fruit. So, without knowing which variety each of you planted, and the size and age that each was at planting time and the soil they're in and the amount they've each been fed and watered, it is impossible to guess just why their plants are setting fruit and yours are not, but it is most likely...if I had to make a blind guess...related to the variety and the weather. Dawn

Many things can cause sudden wilting of plants and the more stressed they are to begin with the less it takes to affect them badly. These plants were heavily stressed already from their appearance - far too little light results in weak spindly stems - so we can really only guess at what might have triggered this collapse. Your first mistake was using potting 'soil' rather than soil-less potting mix. In a container it compacts, drains poorly, and causes root rot and over all decline. Then any sudden change in the environment - less light, more heat, less heat, exposure to outside air, etc. without first gradually getting the plants used to the changes triggers even more stress. So it isn't so much the temperature inside or outside as it is the sudden difference. If you want to try to salvage them then you need to invest in a good quality soil-less potting mix and transplant them into it after removing as much of the existing soil as possible from the roots. The peppers should transplant easily and should recover IF they are not then over-watered. Wet the mix well first, wring it out in your fist and fill the pots, then move the plants into it - each into their own small container. Make sure the container is no more than 4". A big container with a small plant in it holds too much water and drowns the plants. The tomato plants, as is, are pretty much a lost cause. But you can salvage cutting from them, root those cuttings, and then still have your tomato plants. Cut off the top 4-6" of those plants, remove all but the very top couple of leaves, and stick them in a pot of damp potting mix burying most all of the bare stem. Set them out of the light for 48 hours, keep the mix damp and let them droop for 2-3 days. When they begin to perk back up move them back under the light gradually and let them grow. But do something about the amount of light they are getting so that they don't just turn all long and skinny again. Hope this helps. Dave