Jwahlton, I saw your little greenhouse, but I think you would do better to plant them outside in the ground during the summer months. Greenhouses get too hot in summertime. Prepare a small spot to start with (preferably a sunny but cool spot in your yard) Dig & amend the dirt six inches to a foot wide and around 3 or 4 feet long to start. Onions like good rich soil. Prepare the root part of the onions you are using for meals in the manner I indicated in my earlier post. Stagger plant the onion bases around 4 to 6 inches apart and water when you plant. Onions like to be watered sparingly (once a week when established) and will rot if the ground stays soggy. Plant the onion bases as you get them from your meal preparation, don't wait for all at once planting. The root bases from your store onions will grow another onion again just fine. Just remember, start a small onion garden, try different methods, and ask questions. We are all here to help. Lou

My two cents is to just leave them until you have a place to plant them. Why put more stress on them then they already have. I had much the same situation here, we live on the side of a mountain here in Pa. Our soil up here is heavy clay and rock. I happened upon some iris leaves struggling under some bushes on our land, I love iris, so I began digging them up and transplanting them to the gardens I built. At first I had just seen like fifteen fans coming up in the bad area, but then... I came to find out the corms had almost covered the entire area, and wound up with well over two hundred fans! The more I dug the more I kept finding hidden corms. They must have been growing there for well over ten years. They were so happy to be put into good dirt and fed they all went crazy, but, they took a season to grow first in the good dirt and then the next season bloomed their heads off. I wound up with so many I began trading them for other colors~I can't wait for this season. great luck~ Hey my name is lynn also

I've taken an interest in learning about Florida gardening because I plan to move down there eventually. What I've read again and again about discouraging nematodes is to maintain a heavy layer of organic mulch. This will eventually break down and improve your soil. Some people mix in cheap clay kitty litter to make their soil heavier. Another possibility is to heavily underplant roses with Marigolds. There is one seed strain of French Marigolds in particular which tested as being very effective at deterring root-knot nematodes -- Tagetes patula 'Ground Control' (aka 'Single Gold'). The one caveat is that the effects won't be seen until the following year, and to maintain the effect, you'll want to replant them every year. As far as planting too deep -- I think many here would say I am guilty of this, but there hasn't been any negative effect which I can see. When I was putting this garden together, I planted my roses (own-root bands that were grown-on in pots for a few months) directly into the native soil in late Summer 2013. Prior to planting them, I had laid down sheets of cardboard to smother weeds and grass, and covered that with trimmings from a tree I was cutting back. This accumulated to about three inches, but it was a very "airy" three inches. Over all that, I put down an additional 6-8" of "proper" mulch (partially composted shredded wood chips). At first, I made concave "dishes" around each rose to allow water to be directed towards their roots and keep mulch away from the canes as I kept reading I was supposed to do, but after the first Winter, the beds were pretty much leveled out. In Spring, I worked an additional 2" of composted manure into that layer of mulch. This meant that what was once the border between canes and roots was now about 8-10" below the surface. Why did I do this? I wanted to give the roses an "early start" on having deep roots for getting water, and anticipated that canes buried beneath the mulch line would eventually root further up, allowing for easier access to fertilizer applied at the surface. Companion perennials were planted directly into this "mulch/compost" layer in Spring 2014, and they grew like gangbusters in their first year. Last Autumn, I wanted to continue adding organic matter to the beds, so I "harvested" fallen tree leaves and spread them to a "fluffy" three inches thick. I also started collecting used coffee grounds from Starbucks -- one 13gal kitchen garbage can-full per day -- and spread this about 2-3" over the leaves. It took about three months to complete. Winter snow has packed this down a bit, and the previous year's additions have started breaking down, so where I'm at now is about where I was after the first layer of mulch -- about 6-8" above the original soil line. This week, I started some early pruning. While there is some snow still remaining in half of the garden, where it is gone there was already life in the top layer of coffee grounds and leaves -- various soil critters are waking up and finding lots of food waiting for them. I've noticed some freeze damage (naturally) on some rose canes, but nothing soft and mushy which would indicate "cane rot". True, this could emerge later in the season, but I also never saw it last Spring when the roses' canes were also buried to about the same level. Why is this not harming my roses? Perhaps because what's covering the canes is actively being broken down by the various organisms in the soil, and that process is different than simply being a blanket of "wet" around the rose canes. Worms and critters keep moving the material around, and fungi digesting the material are sopping up the extra moisture. I don't know for sure -- all I can say is that I don't see any negative effects. :-) ~Christopher

If there is a significant problem with your holes, replacing the soil product with pure compost will only make it worse. Because the principal issue with amending of planting hole back fill is that the result is a small area of one texture surrounded by a larger area of another texture. With amending usually tending to make the soil in the amended hole coarser in texture than the surrounding native soil. This is a problem because it affects how water enters and exits the amended hole, with extreme cases being the bathtub effect you mentioned. If the excavated soil is still around there somewhere there might be a case for retrieving it, taking the soil mix out of the holes and replanting in the original soil. Otherwise just be sure to monitor the moisture situation within the existing holes carefully, see what happens. If you wonder if there might be puddling in the bottom dig down and do a visual inspection.