Generally speaking, roses require full sun, which is 6 hours of sun or more so try to place them where they get close to 6 hrs of sun in order to prevent blackspot infestations. How much sun would they get in this area?

I would also make sure that the distance between the two shrub types will be enough so the rose fertilizers will not affect the hydrangeas. While I stop fertilizing hydrangeas in July, I stop fertilizing roses next month. I would hate for the hydrangeas to get some rose fertilizer drift and not go dormant when they need to.

Luis

I was thinking along the same lines as Luis. Roses may not thrive as well in that shady area. Best find a full sun & airy location for roses (mildew preventive).

As to pairings with the hydrangeas -- I came across this combination while touring Quebec. Echinacea double deckers and helianthenums (sp?)

As for fertilizing - I prefer to use organics such as triple mixes, composted manure and bonemeal. Some had advocated the use of MYKE which improves root performance.

Thanks, Luis and ianna!

You have brought up some excellent points that I previously did not consider, including the very different nutritional needs of the two different plants.... see, I knew that I could get some great advice here!!! Thank you!

ianna, this is actually a full sun area. I know that the area seems pretty shaded in the photo, but that's just because it was late in the afternoon. It is a very open area that gets full sun from 11am or midday all the way until 5 or 6pm. So it would be ideal for roses too... but I guess the hydrangeas have already found their home there!!! :-)

I think I am going to stick with all hydrangeas and then mix things up with some colorful small shrubs and perennials. Maybe I will try some echinacea next year - I love those things. Anyway, I am going to focus on the shrubs for now, and then worry about the others next season.

Thanks again!

If you really want a rose/hydrdangea combination, and the hydrangeas can take as much sun as the roses will need, you might consider one of the easy-care roses that don't require much feeding. My Belinda's Dream doesn't get much in the way of snacks, (or meals, even) and I don't spray her either. I'm sure there are other rose candidates, probably not hybrid teas however. Good luck. Your bed has a lot of good potential.

You may wish to consider one of the shade-tolerant roses which is low maintenance. There are a number of these. I grow Iceberg alongside Endless Summer, Forever and Ever, and Merrit
Supreme hydrangeas. Iceberg gets morning sun only, and is still loaded with blooms. A wonderful website for researching shade tolerant roses is Woodland rose garden. It is a beautiful website to view with many roses and much information.

Ostrich, do I understand correctly that picture was taken from your own deck and house in the back is of your neighbor, not yours?
If so, I would of play this bed differently, but I don't want to speculate without knowing particulars.
In any event, this bed is calling for the multiseasonal focal point which neither hydrangeas nor roses could provide.

Thanks, jen26, vickysgarden and George!

First, you are right, George, this is from my deck and the bed is between my neighbors' house and my property. After speaking with more people about it, I have decided to do something different.

I will put in a small ornamental tree, like Sugar Tyme Crabapple, in the left third of the bed. This will give early spring and winter interest. Then I will probably leave the Limelight and the Little Lamb there, right there by the tree on the left. Then to the right, I will plant the Pinky Winky and Quick Fire. I am debating as to whether I will then have space for the Pink Diamond. In order to add more colors during other times, I will plant other small perennials or small ever greens there (like euonymous) in the space between the shrubs.

I think that roses probably will not go well with the hydrangeas due to their very different nutritional needs.

Does that sound like a good plan?

Thanks again everyone!

'I will put in a small ornamental tree, like Sugar Tyme Crabapple, in the left third of the bed.'

How about,' I will put in relatively narrow upright conifer, like Picea orientalis 'Skylands', for example, in the left (or maybe right) third of the bed.'?

I'm down with the conifer idea or any other evergreens/screens. (especially along the back of the bed) One can easily get stuck in the "too much of a good thing" mode with hydrangeas but it's important to consider ALL of the aspects of your yard, and to me, it looks like some screening/separation from the neighbors is in order...yg

Hi George and yellowgirl!

I also agree that I need something between my property and my neighbors'. What my photo did not show you though, was how this area in question looked from the driveway. It's actually directly looking at the end of bed on the left. In fact, it is not such a wide area.

This area needs something pretty and not so big. A conifer like Picea orientalis will be too tall for this area as it is too close to the house, and the base of the mature tree will be even wider than the width of the entire bed. That's why it will not work. I am choosing something like the Sugar Tyme Crabapple because it has a good size and upright habit for this area, and it's so gorgeous in spring! It is actually going to look spectacular from the driveway. Also, the persistent and very bright red fruit during winter will look absolutely stunning with the snow during winter. Another thing is, since there is no other evergreen tree in this woodland setting in my backyard, would it not look odd to have one single evergreen there in this island?

In any case, you have given me a lot more to think about, which is great! Thank you. I will certainly take a look at some evergreens at the nursery this weekend before I decide on the crabapple or something else.

BTW, I have a Prairifire Crabapple in my front yard, so having this white flower crabapple in this backyard area visible from the front is going to look very nice.

"...since there is no other evergreen tree in this woodland setting in my backyard, would it not look odd to have one single evergreen there in this island? "

You have to start somewhere :-))

Truly, such bed, eventhough you want to feature hydrangeas, requires IMO contrasting color and/or texture to a)showcase hydrangeas and b)provide interest in hydrangea's non-blooming season.
Here is the similarly sized bed (35 x 8-10'width) with physocarpus Diabolo providing necessary separation between Tardivas.
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Since observer could see this bed only from the front, all large shrubs were planted not on a center line, but rather closer to the back and all front is underplanted by peonies, spireas and caryopteris. Spacing between shrubs allow to plant daffodils, various daylilies and lilies in order to fill the flowering void before hydrangeas starts.

Thanks for the very helpful photo and advice, George. I will definitely remember to add some more contrasting colors and textures to highlight the hydrangeas there. I already have some daylilies and peonies ready to be planted there. I will get some other perennials to add more colors and textures next season.

Remember that I do have the Sambucus Black Lace there? OK, I remember that it's not your favorite shrub but it's doing OK for me... if it will not next season, I may replace it with a physocarpus too.

Thanks again!