Hi Mike, This may not be much help coming from "usually" cool Coastal MA but, I would think that getting them in the ground sooner would be better. Where you are only getting 2 plants, it probably wouldn't be too hard to put some screening from the sun if you should have a really bad spell. I'm a believer and a user of the sideways lawn chair with the back over the plant to shield it! I've done it with Rhodys that have been moved to a new location and haven't become acclimated to their new surroundings as well as hydrangeas. The chairs are so easy to move too as the sun moves. Not exactly the scientific approach but it does work. Your plants will need as much time as possible to get a good root system going for gorgeous flowers for next year! This is just my opinion, I'm sure there will be others who live in your area that may be more helpful! Good luck, Donna

The experts' rule-of-thumb is during dormant period, in the Fall or early Spring before they wake up. Before I knew any better, I've moved a few beauties around (at less than ideal times) as long as I get the entire root ball & with a lot of TLC ... moved 2 ESs 3x, F&E 2x, 2 Serratas in late Spring... they were young & it was easy to dig up the entire ball as if I was just moving a huge pot from 1 spot to a better one (I was blest!) ... DON'T follow my ignorant lead, unless you won't mind losing you beauty. I have an old Nikko I'm thinking to move, but fear the risk of losing 2 stems, on ground-layering status since 1st of June. If I toughen my chicken nature, I might still ... around mid-Nov ... & cross fingers/talking to Hydrangea gods all Winter!!! LOL A very old shrub would be difficult to move w/out some damage to roots! Experts will be responding soon! Good Luck!

I have been doing some hydrangea divisions and they have been remarkably successful. Dig up the plant and wash off the soil. Washing off all the soil will give you a chance to inspect the roots. Look at the root ball and see where the plant can be divided into two or three pieces with roots attached. Wiggle them apart - you might have to cut the sections from the top of the ball but try to select sections with lots of roots. Cut broken roots and check for insects or shoots that look mushy or just not solid and cut those off. Be as gentle as possible - take your time pulling the sections apart. If you split some of the larger branches growing out of the root - don't worry they will be ok and probably root just fine when planted under the soil line. Put them in a bucket of water to re-hydrate and then plant in new -- ordinary potting soil - not organic - in a container with drainage holes. Professional growers have found that organic potting soil is too rich for new and divided plants and can top kill the plant. Do not put rocks or anything over the drainage holes! Not needed and NOT recommended. Soak the soil and let drain. Put the new plants in the shade - or speckled shade - just not direct sun for a couple of months. You could reduce the height by 1/3 if you want a shorter plant but be sure to cut just above a leaf node. Do not fertilize. Keep the plans moist but not soggy. I would protect the new plant for the first winter - garage or car port. You plants should do just fine in their new home.

Thank you for the advice! The leaves are not wilting, its the blooms that are turning brown. I keep running into big healthy hydrangea plants all over town that are out in the middle of sun, no chance of shade and they are fabulous! I don't know why mine are having such a hard time. I wonder if it is the Endless Summer variety? My Annabelle is HUGE full of blooms with no sensitivity to sun. All planted on the same day. Is it because it is their first year and they will be more established next year?