Foam Rubber as a growing medium? Newbie Questions!
20 years ago
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Growing Medium for Potted Figs
Comments (60)There are many variables to be considered in a discussion about soils. I'll tell you a little about 3 different soils & you can decide how different they are and if you think compaction/soil collapse will be a problem for you. Peat based soils, like MG, break down quickly - within a single growing season. When you use them, you have to hope the container size and o/a plant mass is enough to compensate for the collapse toward the end of summer. Hopefully, the roots have colonized the container and the planting has matured to the degree that the plant is able to use the water from compacted soils quickly enough to avoid root rot. We hope that roots are healthy enough that they actually become a part of the structure of the soil and function as aids to the soils ability to hold air. For maximun vitality when using these soils, the plant should be bare-rooted every year. Conifer bark-based soils break down at a rate around 1/4 that of peat soils. They virtually guarantee that the roots will become a part of the soil structure w/o much concern for root rot, as long as your irrigation practices are reasonable. The 5:1:1 mix of pine bark:peat:perlite is a good example of this type of soil, and there are hundreds of GW folks growing in it with very good results. You should expect at least 2 years service from this soil, as opposed to 1 from those based on peat. Your trees should have some attention paid to their roots every two years - 3 years maximum, so this is a good soil to use for your trees. The third type of soil is the gritty mix described way upthread. It consists of equal parts by volume - pine or fir bark:Turface:crushed granite. It is 2/3 inert, so it breaks down very slowly and will still be very serviceable long past the time appropriate for you to do a repot/root-pruning. This soil retains its structure for a very long time, and could easily be pressed into 5 years service if the plant's becoming badly root bound before that wasn't a consideration. Clay pots (or other containers that have gas-permeable walls) will always be healthier for your plants - no matter which soil you choose. The price you pay is the need to water more frequently, but that act of watering drives damaging CO2 from soils and brings in a fresh load of air - greatly beneficial to plants, both. Can a clay pot help compensate for a collapsing soil? Yes, to some degree it can. Roots begin to die only a few hours after being deprived of adequate aeration. The small and most important roots die first - then progressively larger roots until air again returns to the soil, allowing the plant to start a rejuvenation process. This cyclic death and regeneration of roots due to collapsed soil is very taxing from a stored energy perspective. The plant uses it's reserves or current photosynthate (food) production to regenerate roots. This means less increase in mass in other organs - including fruit. How the clay pot helps is by allowing air back into the root zone quicker, so not as many roots die when using a soil too water retentive. Al...See Morenewbie - need advise on growing plumeria cutting in pot
Comments (18)Well, I finally put Plumeria cutting in pot. I used following soil mixture: 60% Cactus Mix 40% Perlite pea size pabble stones at top Cutting size: about 6-8" and 1" diameter I put the mix in 1G pot, soaked it in water and drained and then planted Plumeria cutting in it. I have a question: Now (only from today)that weather is getting warmer in bay area (N. CA), should I be keeping it in SUN during daytime at all? I heard somewhere that you need to keep this pot in shade for first 2 weeks. And, then start putting it under sun during daytime. Is this right? I am not sure what is the right thing to do at this point. Please advise. Thanks. Here're some photos: Plumeria in Pot Plumeria Cutting...See MoreNewbie Growing Questions
Comments (4)I'm not a great fan of grocery store roses but I'll give you my two cents worth. Since it was almost dead and you saved it in the nic of time it is in a very weak condition. It will need some time to recover and to have more blooms. Sometimes it helps to cut off the dead blooms to encourge new growth/new blooms but not always. Growing roses inside is not recommended. They need more light than that but when you take it outside you'll need to gradually introduce it to full sun. Roses do best with several hours of full sun a day. Another drawback of growing roses inside it they have a tendency of getting spidermites! I've never read the directions for saving a grocery store rose but I grow a lot of miniature roses and I don't see the harm in not seperating them...but I've no first hand knowledge here. If you are REALLY interested in growing miniature roses you might want to go to some of the vendors mentioned on this forum by other people. If you have any more questions you can e-mail me because I don't check this forum very often. Good luck, and have fun! Laura...See MoreDioscorea Elephantipes Growing Medium
Comments (47)I've watered my seedlings every time I felt the soil got dry enough that the pot felt light and they were in well draining but a good amount of organic mix. They've been fine since they were actively growing, I'm more worried about the "transition period" where at some point they prefer less water (?)...I have 2 older (but still quite young) plants that are in straight gritty mix and they also seem fine so I dunno. The seedlings like or tolerate watering well. I am considering adding some organic to the older plants and many of my other plants but just not sure. I already have to some, considering others. I kept the older ones going last winter under grow lights and the seedlings were just getting started. Does anyone know if it's better to let them go dormant? Our winters are for sure too cold to leave little plants out there but I could leave them out of the grow light's reach if they would prefer it. Tyler, I also have to say that I take back my wishy-washy attitude on trellising and stand firmly on the pro side of trellising - I turned my back for a minute and my vines got unruly, tangled themselves and latched on to other plants. I had a roll of wire that was just a nice enough gauge to bend into a U shape and stick right in the pots, making a beautiful, sturdy little arched trellis for my D's. Kara, from what I understand the caudex doesn't really like / benifit from the sun at all, only the vine. So I would say it is not necessary to keep it in sun unless possibly that is for warmth? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. TanP - nice Mexicana! And on the eliphantipes am I reading your post right that you have 8 month old seedlings that are the size of a half dollar?? Please, please elaborate if I read that correctly! hoovb - that D at the Huntington is absolutely jaw dropping, WOW....See MoreRelated Professionals
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