Mixing warm season and cool season grasses won't work. See what your neighbors have, and plant based off of that. Don't till. Aeration is fine. Most grass does best in full sun, however, fescue can handle shade. I believe full sun is roughly 8 hours per day of sun. The biggest thing is temperature. Cool season needs night time temperatures below 70. Yes, it can handle higher lows but becomes much more disease prone and such.

1. On aeration, we have had a few landscapers come out, and they all say the soil is compacted enough to require aeration. That said, if we don't do aeration, how would you recommend putting down the seed? I assume we wouldn't just drop the seed on the existing lawn? Again, from what info you have given, it is unlikely you have compacted soil. For aeration to be a truly successful remedy of compaction, it should result in a minimum of 20 holes per sq ft. and at depths 4" or greater. I know of no landscaper that has that type of equipment--the type golf courses have. As aeration is messy and expensive, I only use it when I can combine it with other processes like topdressing, adding gypsum, fertilizing, etc. Seeding is not one of those processes. Although seed does seem to germinate well on the aeration hole edges, the seeds that fall into the deep holes do not and are wasted. Seed does germinate better when the soil surface is broken, but many have very good results just seeding over bare ground followed by rolling or a thin layer of peat moss. If your bare spots are not too large or numerous, light raking of the soil is fine. I get best results with KBG by broadcasting seed and then running a slit seeder over it. Just dropping seed over the existing lawn is common and called overseeding. 2. We just had a weed control and fertilizer application put down yesterday. So I am assuming we would need to wait a couple of weeks before we do the overseeding? Is mid Sep soon enough for a mix of Rye and KBG? I have not used Q4 specifically. Weed B Gone Max contains a similar AI cocktail as Q4 and Ortho recommends that overseeding not be done sooner than 4 weeks after application. As far as seeding is concerned: late summer is preferred as temperatures are beginning to subside, weed pressure is at a minimum and torrential rains are less common. Temps that do not fall below 50 F at night and that rarely exceed 80 F during the day are ideal for cool season grass establishment. No weed pressure removes the problems of feeding and watering the turf without feeding and watering a crop of competing weeds. Cool season grasses need to be planted early enough before soil temperatures fall below 50-55F--when grass plant growth slows or stops-- so that there is enough time for germination and subsequent plant growth so a root system develops and top growth has the chance to harden off--usually about the time of the third mowing. This time frame is dependent on region and the whims of Mother Nature--there is no hard and fast rule. 3. Thanks for the comparative comments. Any thoughts on Tall and Fine Fescue? Our original seeding as it turns out was a mix of KBG, Perennial Rye and Fine Fescue (roughly 1/3 each). Lol. Yes I have "thoughts", but they are just my opinion. All cool season grasses have advantages and disadvantages. Fine fescue is one of the few grasses that will grow in shadier areas, but does not hold up well in traffic. Rye and TTTF can make nice lawns, but they do not spread and self repair and require occasional overseeding to maintain thickness. My preference is KBG. If you can grow KBG, that is my recommendation. It makes a beautiful blanket lawn and after the third year, it is self repairing. I wont list the reasons I find it superior, but they are many, but choice of turf is subjective in many ways. 4. Yes typo on my part ��" I meant lb per 1000 sqft of course (otherwise that would be one heck of a seed bill!) Are there any commercially available mix of seeds that you know of that could work? I thought it was a typo, but better safe than sorry. You could check NTEP for the individual turf grass names in commercial bags to see what each type's individual characteristics are. What you definitely want is a bag labeled as containing 0% weeds. Better yet, 0% other crop seeds.

Hi Steve, I did find this site through your post on the Cedar Hills forum (you may know me as grbpwr on that site). I did try the Scotts last year in Spring and Fall but it didn't seem to help. I also sprayed weed killer on all the weeds every week without any noticeable difference. I changed all my cleaning supplies to organic over the past year and love it, it is so much more effective than chemical cleaners (baking soda, vinegar and Dr. Bonner's are my life) so I thought I would do the same for my yard, especially since chemicals didn't seem to get the job done last year. I have TONS of weeds. The yard on one side of my driveway (luckily this is the smaller area of front yard) is nothing but weeds and bare spots and my backyard isn't much better. I was actually planning to get one of those claw things for my dandelion problem because digging them up by hand like I tried last year was a flop due to the super long roots. I will try that on my existing crabgrass. Skoob, I hadn't heard about using plastic to kill existing crabgrass, but I had heard that a VERY light dusting of baking soda on existing crabgrass would kill it in about 5 hours without damaging the soil or grass around it. However, this has only been tested in warmer climates (FL, TX, etc.) so I was hesitant to use it, I think I will try both methods and see which is more effective. At this point nothing short of setting the grass on fire and starting over will make most of my lawn look any worse (although I do have a really nice section directly in the front which I want to encourage to spread).

The best solution for weed control is a healthy lawn. Lush, thick Bermuda grass will choke out most weeds and along with Bermuda hybrids, it is the best choice for a lawn in the Phoenix area. It will stay green until the first freeze (usually about Dec. 1) and begin greening up in March if not overseeded. There are two classes of weeds - grasses and broadleaf (clover, spurge, London rocket, etc.). If you have broadleaf weeds, use a product containing 2-4-D which will not harm the Bermuda. Your Spectracide does not kill Bermuda but is effective on a wide range of broadleaf weeds. It also comes with a warning not apply to Bermudagrass when daytime temperatures exceed 85° F. The poa annua will be dying as soon as warmer weather arrives, if its not dead already. Using Round Up now may not kill the existing bermuda. The active ingredient (glyphosate) needs to be translocated to the underground rhizomes and roots as well as the stolons, and it won't do this until the grass is actively growing when its hot - May - September. To reseed your lawn, wait until mid May when night time temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees to seed more Bermuda. Here's a link to the steps on seeding a Bermuda lawn. FYI, The seeded variety 'Princess' is a seed producing hybrid variety. It is legally termed a hybrid, due to the arrangement and selection of seed producing parent plants in production fields. 'Princess' produces a lawn which looks much finer then most other seeded types of Bermuda plants and is darker green in color.