In my zone the weather doesn't change noticeably until that one day in October when you go outside and notice a genuine difference in the air—it might still rise into the 80s, but the humidity is appreciably lower which makes such a difference. As for oak leaves, since I rent and landlord doesn't care about the lawn (lawn=euphemism for mostly weeds) as long as it's kept mowed, I give it one good hand-blistering raking in the spring.

You mean in the second pic? That is a juniper hedge that has grown there for many years. It has die back, then recovers in some areas, but it is old. I don't see the galls you are referring to unless you are seeing orange leaves from the serviceberry laying on/in it. I'm betting on rust also. Now that I think about it , this Spring I have noticed a lot of brown on my mature DeGroot Spires in the orchard area and also on a young Pencil Point juniper planted last summer. It was healthy until this Spring. The bottom at ground level is yellow/brown and seems to be going up the shrub. It sits in the courtyard garden as well, not far from the serviceberry. ugh. I have done nothing different in terms of mulch. Perhaps I've introduced a diseased juniper (the pencil point).

I’m not an experienced gardener; however, a gardener reminded me of an issue with watering that had not previously crossed my mind. First, not to water plants other than in the morning prior to it warming up or in the evening after the day has cooled off; because of the next poimy...also, when watering plants, make sure that either or both, Your hose water and/or your drip system or timed watering system water has had time to cool off or to run the water that was sitting inside your hose or water system‘s tubing, because water sitting in either a hose or tubing, can come out of the hose/tubing at over 100 degrees and literally cook your plant, when you believe you are watering/helping your plant..and during the day if you water your plants, any water left on the plant’s leaves will act as a magnifying glass and cook that leaf...so always run the water out of your hose/tubing until it has cooled off to less than 80 degrees (cooler is better obviously) before you water your plants and ALWAYS WATER the soil, not the plants... Ok, so back to your specific topic, a quick google search lead me to what seems like the common answers (plural), with regard to yellowing tomato leaves, that include: Under Watering (obviously not your issue), and Blight in two fungus forms. Both, sadly, are stated as untreatable..and come with the direction to Destroy the Plants and rotate away from that soil as blight fungus will likely remain in the soil and affect next year’s crops If growing tomatoes.. Having said that, via the pics, I did notice that You have LOTS of leaves lower on Your tomato plants, which, as I understand it, is not a good thing, as leaves lower on the tomato plant make the Plant much more susceptible to developing issues, because leaves block constant air flow they need, and the more lower leaves there are, the more likely that when watering, the water will splash back up from the soil and hit the plant‘s leaves transferring fungus from the soil to the leaf, and causing blight, etc. What I found on gardening know how dot com is the recommendation that You contact Your local Agriculture Extension Office, as they are most familiar with pests and disease in your area, and can provide you the best direction on how to tackle your plant and/or soil issue(s). Not sure this link will post, but it is to a page where you can search for your local Agricultural Extension Office‘s contact information: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/extension-searchI  Personally, If you don’t want to go the route of ’destroy everything’, and depending upon what the extension office recommends, I would recommend (Trying with one plant): a) pruning back the first 4-5” of leaves off your plant at the bottom; b) Separate healthy plants from sick as far from each other as you can, c) Separate sick plants from sick plants spacing several feet apart at the least, d) I recommend this treatment test with at least one plant that you’re willing to take the chance of losing...Take some peppermint oil (organic), a misting spray bottle, add about 20 drops of peppermint oil into a 3/4th full of distilled or bottled spring water (pure spring water not the junk that has added minerals, is just tap water run thru a filter, etc. so read the labels — point is to use water without any chemicals or additives that are potentially in tap water or even mineralized bottled water), shake water/oil mixture, and using the mister, at night after it cools off, spray BOTH the Tomato Plant ALL OVER, and then spray the top of the soil..You are looking to ensure contact of the mixture with the plant leaves, stems AND the top of the soil, how much You ‘soak’ the soil is up to You and if You have worms in your pots or not..If worms, then try not to soak the soil (the peppermint will kill the worms, insects, and most nematos in the soil, good or bad) if no worms, feel free to soak away, as the hope is for the peppermint oil to kill off the fungus on the plant and in the soil....I spray my cabbage, tomatoes and other plants with this mixture once or more a week (more if I see eaten leaves, but I have worms in my soil so I attempt to just hit the plant and not to soak the soil, and my plants seem to love it, and perk up afterward.), and next year I would probably repot with a Mixture of good organic soil mixed with some worm castings and a teaspoon of Azomite for good measure, to help revitalize the soil hopefully minus any fungus issues... Anyways, that’s my 2 cents, for what it’s worth...Good Luck to You & Your Plants, I hope things aren’t as dire as most sites seem to infer they may be..and that Your plants recover soon!...

Amanda, it looks to me like that tree is a gonner. You’ve put too much stress on an already stressed, under watered, under fed tree. I’m afraid it will see its demise indoors. If it were me, I would take the winter and do some research on root stocks and how they effect the growth habits of the citrus tree you want to grow. Then I’d go to my local nursery like Armstrong’s or wherever you normally go in LA and find a new tree that is grafted to said rootstock that you researched in January and plant said tree in Late January early February into the ground. Late winter early spring is the perfect time of year to plant citrus trees In ground. Then I’d water it consistently and deeply the first year and fertilize it lightly monthly. That’s it. The more care and worry you give to your trees the worse off they end up being from over care. You see, in ground trees are very different than potted trees. They need a lot LESS care, you have to let them do what they’re going to do and address issues only if they arise. Not every tree is going to look perfect or have deep green leaves or bear fruit the first 1-2 years, it takes patience. Rest assured though, you live in LA, it’s basically the perfect climate to grow citrus in so if you have patience and keep an eye on your tree it will reward you with a bounty eventually. Evan