Swale Battle continues
trinigemini
15 years ago
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natives_and_veggies
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agosolstice98
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Need help with slowing down water flow in swale
Comments (10)I considered not responding to this thread. What I have to say is not an answer to the question or what the OP wants to hear. Still, he may benefit and other readers can learn from the mistakes made. When building a new home, it's best to complete a grading and drainage plan before starting construction. There is a minor potential for flooding for this lot (flood zone X) that should be assessed and a height of foundation selected to ensure protection. If it was my house the grade at the foundation would be a few inches higher than the highest point in James Drive to the south. With luck, that is the case. When doing grading, it's a good idea to make a base property drawing that documents the grading before construction begins. Drainage law varies from state to state. Most states follow some modified version of the Civil Law of Drainage. It is a violation to block the natural flow of water from a higher property from entering your property, and carries liability for all damage for doing so. In this case, after construction started, water pooled on Lot 7, submerging newly planted trees. Whether the pooling was caused by construction or an insufficient capacity of the county's road ditch may be in question, but without a documentation of the original grades the poster is not in a good position to defend against a claim from the Lot 7 owner. The poster may have to regrade to accommodate the drainage of Lot 7 and pay for the replacement of any of the trees that die. While I think it was right of the county to tell poster to regrade such that Lot 7 drainage was not blocked from getting to the road ditch, I fail to see how the county has authority to require the swale MTguy constructed across his property. Moreover, the swale also violates the Civil Law of Drainage by diverting water to flow onto a lower property (Lot 5) in a place different from historical flows. The lower owner has a legal cause of action that the flows be stopped and all damage be compensated. A consolation with an attorney might be in order. I'm sorry you didn't find your way to this forum earlier....See Morelosing the spider mite battle
Comments (34)I've been reading a lot on spider mites this week. There is another excellent thread on spider mite control here on gardenweb somewhere. The Cal Extension blog also just put out a blog about soap use on mites, and how it doesn't interrupt. I'm trying to find it. I'm with Patty on feeding plants really well -- spraying with chemicals makes me fear that I've undone all the good work souping up the the good microbes and critters in the soil. On the other hand, the Calif extension just blogged about soap use NOT interrupting the work of good arthropods, worms etc. Go figure. (Trying to find that link too.) Below is a study -- both worm castings and aerated compost tea from worm castings have reduced spider mites. SUPPRESSING PLANT PARASITIC NEMATODES AND ARTHROPOD PESTS WITH VERMICOMPOST TEAS BioCycle December 2007, Vol. 48, No. 12, p. 38 Greenhouse trials confirm that the sooner a tea is used after it is brewed, the more effective it is in influencing plant growth and suppressing diseases. Part II Clive A. Edwards, Norman Q. Arancon, Eric Emerson and Ryan Pulliam PRODUCTION and use of aqueous extracts of thermophilic composts and vermicomposts, commonly termed teas, has expanded rapidly in the last two to three years, particularly since there is now a range of commercial tea brewing equipment available that can produce large or small quantities of teas. Unfortunately, there are relatively few published scientific studies which have reviewed the methods of production and uses of compost or vermicompost teas, optimal dilutions or application rates. These teas have been used extensively, particularly by organic gardeners and farmers, to promote plant growth by application to soils as drenches, and to suppress plant diseases by soil or foliar sprays. These uses are still increasing as their methods of application and effectiveness are gradually being established. Research in our laboratory at The Ohio State University has shown clearly that some form of agitation or aeration during production of vermicompost teas is necessary, if the teas are to be effective in promoting crop growth and suppressing pests and diseases. We have research under way into the shelf-life of vermicompost teas under different temperatures and in a range of containers. We have demonstrated the transport of microbial activity and diversity, key nutrients, and enzymatic activity from solid vermicomposts into teas. Additionally, all our experience of the use of teas in greenhouse trials has confirmed that the sooner a vermicompost tea is used after it is brewed, the more effective it is in influencing plant growth and in suppressing pests and diseases. We have tested vermicompost teas extracted from vermicomposts produced from a range of animal manures such as pig or cattle wastes, as well as paper and food wastes, and all have been effective in promoting plant growth and disease suppression, independent of nutrient supply. After many laboratory and greenhouse trials, we decided that the optimal quantities of solid vermicomposts to water ratios were: 1:5 (20 percent), 1:10 (10 percent) and 1:20 (5 percent). EFFECTS OF VERMICOMPOST TEAS ON PLANT PARASITIC NEMATODES We have demonstrated clearly that solid vermicomposts can suppress plant parasitic nematodes in the field (Arancon et al. 2003). Our experiments on the effects of vermicompost teas on nematodes were in the laboratory and greenhouse, in soils that had been artificially infested with the root knot of nematode (Meloidogyne incognita), which is a very serious pest of a wide range of crops all over the world. Six-week-old tomato seedlings were transplanted into 10 cm diameter pots containing a sand and loam (1:3 ratio) soil mixture to which the test tea treatments were applied. Drench treatments of teas were applied at seedling transplanting, and every two weeks thereafter. One week after transplanting 10,000 Meloidogyne hapla eggs were added to each plant pot in suspension in tap water. The eggs were collected from cultures maintained on infested tomato plants. Each treatment was replicated four times. Pots into which tomato plants had been transplanted were arranged on benches in a completely randomized design and the greenhouse was maintained at 25°C. Plants were watered regularly with tempered line water. Thirty days after infestation with nematodes, soil was removed from the pots and the roots were washed to assess the extent of root damage and the numbers of root knots. The washed roots were rated for numbers of root knot galls and the numbers of galls per unit wet weight of roots counted. The effects of the nematodes on plant height were determined by growth measurements, including heights, leaf areas, fresh and the dry weights of leaves from plant tops and the dry weights of all above-ground tissues at the end of the experiment. The relative growth of the tomato plants in response to the nematode infestations, after 30 days, are illustrated in Figure 1. The differences in growth between treatments, in response to the vermicompost teas were spectacular, and the reductions in numbers of root knot galls on the tomato roots in response to the vermicompost tea applications was considerable (Figures 2 and 3). These effects of vermicompost teas on plant parasitic nematode attacks were very similar to those in experiments that used solid vermicompost substituted into Metro-Mix 360 in the greenhouse (Arancon et al. 2003). EFFECTS OF VERMICOMPOST TEAS ON ARTHROPOD PESTS We have shown that solid vermicomposts can suppress spider mite, mealy bug and aphid populations in the field (Arancon et al. 2007). For our preliminary experiments into the suppression of arthropod pests by vermicompost teas, we chose two important groups of plant pests, aphids and spider mites. For the spider mite experiments, four tomato plants were placed into each 0.2 mm mesh cage (40 cm x 30 cm x 30), and 100 two-spotted spider mites (Tetranychus sp.) were released into each infested cage, with four replicate cages for each treatment. The plants were treated with either water (control), aerated thermophilic 20 percent compost tea, or aerated 5 percent, 10 percent, or 20 percent vermicompost tea, produced from food waste vermicompost. The damage to the plants in these cages was assessed on a damage rating of 0 (no damage) to 5 (100 percent damage), eight days after pests were introduced into the cages. There were four replicate cages with no spider mite infestations, in order to assess any changes in leaf weights caused by the spider mite infestations. Because spider mites are so small we did not count them, instead we assessed the amounts of the distinct damage that they caused to the plants. All three soil application rates of vermicompost teas decreased the amounts of damage by the spider mites compared with the water control significantly (P < 0.05). By comparison the traditional thermophilic compost tea had no significant effect on the spider mite damage. We used the same experimental protocol in experiments on aphids. In these experiments, 100 aphids (Myzus persicae) were released onto four tomato plants, in each of the cages infected with aphids. A set of cages that had no aphid infestations was used to assess any changes in leaf weights caused by the aphids. The numbers of aphids on each plant were counted 13 days after infestation. The results are summarized in Figure 4. Clearly, all three dilutions of aerated vermicompost teas suppressed the aphid populations significantly (P < 0.05) compared with the water control treatment whereas the aerated thermophilic compost tea had no significant effects on the aphid populations. These results on the suppression of aphids and spider mites by vermicompost teas were very similar to those obtained from growing plants in the greenhouse in Metro Mix 360, substituted with a range of solid vermicomposts (Arancon et al. 2007). The suppression of aphids is particularly important since they are key vectors in the transmission of plant viruses. It seems clear that there is a good potential for suppression of arthropod pests by both vermicomposts and vermicompost teas using methods very acceptable to organic growers and farmers. The authors are in the Soil Ecology Laboratory at The Ohio State University in Columbus, Ohio. FURTHER READING Arancon, N.Q., Yardim, E., Edwards, C.A., Lee, S., 2003. The Trophic diversity of nematode communities in soils treated with vermicomposts. Pedobiologia 47, 736-740. Arancon, N.Q., Edwards, C.A., Oliver, T.J., Byrne, R.J. 2007 Suppression of two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae), mealy bugs (Pseudococcus) and aphid (Myzus persicae) populations and damage by vermicomposts. Crop Protection 26, 26-39....See MoreJapanese stilt grass battle
Comments (3)I would talk with the people at your local Rutgers Cooperative Extension office about control of this invasive grass species and plan on a 5 year program to get it under control. Tilling may bring some seeds to the surface but it may also bury others. Since this grass is quite common along roads and other places that have relatively poor soil this may be an indication of how it grows so well and out competes native species, so a good look at the soil may well be warranted now. http://plantscience.psu.edu/research/projects/vegetative-management/publications/state-parks-invasive-species-management-quicksheets/4.-japanese-stiltgrass-microstegium-vimineum A good reliable soil test from Rutgers CES for soil pH and major nutrients before tilling that soil would be a good idea, and a look at the soil with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. may also help. kimmq is kimmsr...See MoreThe Continuing Saga of Cpartist's House
Comments (125)I'm curious. What happened between the current and the original design? The original house was on a smaller lot and because of lot restrictions we wound up with a house we weren't happy with, so we bought an additional 1/2 a lot. That gave us an additional 3000 square feet which allowed us to fix our master suite area, enlarge DH's study, add a second garage bay and make our guest bedroom right sized. It also allowed us to put a real lanai on, and add a needed 2' to the kitchen. But most importantly it allowed us to turn the house so now our rear faced south instead of west. I consider that a major positive. If you notice the west side of the house has almost no windows and in our hot climate, that's a good thing. It's also set five feet from the lot line, so will have a fence and really not be viewed, so I'm not too concerned about it lacking windows. It looks like two different homes going on; one story on the left and two story on the right. The original elevation seems more balanced. Thank you for your thoughts. The dreaded garage. We could have had a detached garage but then we would have almost no driveway space,and instead too much land would be in front where we wouldn't use it. Also be aware you're looking at a flat elevation. In 3D it will look different. The garage will be set back and was made purposely lower so the house itself became the focal point. It was done deliberately. And of course once it's landscaped it will be even less noticeable. IMO, the foyer should be welcoming, a first impression, give a glimpse and be a beautiful avenue to the rest of the home. The latest foyer layout I see looks as if you just run right into walls and doors? like walking right into a closet or mudroom/service entrance with no impressive view of the courtyard/pool. All houses have compromises. Because we are on a smaller lot (9000 square feet) we had to make some compromises. Because we absolutely wanted the house backyard to "envelope" us with a courtyard feel, we had to make choices as to which rooms would open to the courtyard. To us it was most important that our kitchen/dining/living room and master suite open to the courtyard. And my DH was insistent that his study look out on the courtyard too. It wasn't important to us that our foyer, which we'd spend almost no time in, have a view out to the courtyard. So we made sure all those rooms mentioned had windows on at least two sides to bring in views and light. To help our foyer, we will make the wall that you first see interesting with lighting and a beautiful painting or large mirror. Our stairway will be open with a craftsman style staircase. The opening to the great room will be cased in a way that creates interest and the desire to explore further and because the great room has windows on both the north and south walls, the light in the great room should lead you to want to move from the entry foyer to the great room. Adding to that is the foyer ceiling will be 9' high while the great room will have 10' ceilings so it will "open" up. Would you want a closet in the study so that it could resell as an additional bedroom? Yes and we added a closet for DH to have a place for his things. This is our retirement home and we're not building the house for resale. We're building it for us and our needs now and hopefully into the future. Maybe I'm missing a bigger picture or didn't read all of the threads in entirety. I think you may have missed a few. Here are the most updated plans and elevations....See Morejunkyardgirl
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