woody stems on hoyas?
parker806
16 years ago
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gabro14
16 years agoRelated Discussions
woody stems on knock out roses
Comments (9)You only remove woody canes (older canes) because they are not as prolific as new canes. You should try not to remove more than a third of the plant at once. If I were you, I would remove dead wood, assess where you are at, and then take out one or two older canes. This should make the bush put out new canes. To get a fuller shape on your knockout, prune to an outward facing bud versus an inner facing one. You don't want a lot of canes crossing in the middle. If it as tall as you want it to get, I also might get rid of some of the canes comes straight out on top to give it a more rounded appearance, but that depends on what look you are looking for....See Moregeranium woody stems vs green stems
Comments (1)From what I've been told, wood stems just mean that it is old growth and green stems mean new growth. Wood stems does not mean that your plant is not well. It is perfectly normal....See MoreIs it possible to graft woody stems of itoh peonies?
Comments (2)"My guess is that if a division of an itoh peony is planted sideways in the ground, it will force the entire length of the woody stem to become tuberous, or at least produce roots/tubers from each underground eye." A woody stem may root, but the stem will not become tuberous (different cell structure). You will have greater success with root division and maybe grafting hardened stems (w/buds) onto herbaceous rootstock....See Moreanyone done approach grafting of thin-stemmed woodies?
Comments (18)David, You'd be best to put up a small camping tent up against the north side of a structure and place your grafts inside. This will provide the constant humidity necessary for any type of graft to not dry out. I don't think you need parafilm tape if you have humidity for summer grafting. It wouldn't hurt but it's not necessary. Now rhododendrons are not something I've read up on. Grafting is grafting to me though and those tips are what I would do for anything I'm grafting this time of the year, or, especially at the end of July into August. The middle of August is optimum time to summer graft because that's when the roots are most active (at any given time of the year.) Less energy into producing shoots in spring while active rooting is occurring is the opposite of August. Some people graft in November also after plants have fully gone dormant and while roots are active, but, you'd need a pretty warm climate or greenhouse at that time. The reason for less water in media is to decrease bleeding at the union. When plants are watered they want to grow. If you starve a plant of water they will slow down. During healing, when there is an active flow of sap, it will push the union apart, literally. Recently I was on the phone with a friend asking for cuttings of Rhododendron to do later in the year and he told me that now is the optimum time. I replied that Dirr says otherwise and he said, 'Dirr doesn't know it all.' So, I'm going to assume you know more about Rhododendron propagation that I. As for grafting though, I honestly believe it's the wrong time of the year, but I cannot tell you if I'm incorrect. Mid-August for two weeks, until Sept 1st is optimum summer grafting time. I'll say one last thing. This is T-budding time and the window is closing. It's also June Greenwood Grafting. They're both basically the same. A bud is sliced out of a stick of wood for T-budding and inserted under the bark of another. In Greenwood grafting, rigid new growth is where the bud is cut out to be inserted under the bark. I honestly cannot compare these bud grafts with what you're doing; using a stick of wood vs. a bud. I do know however that a full scion is not grafted this time of the year on anything I know of. Dax...See MoreDenise
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