If mixing your vegetables in with other plants be sure you're not using a poisonous slug bait. I heard a garden talk once about a gal who was poisoned when eating her strawberries because of the slug bait she'd spread. For the vitamins - spinach & herbs. My kids did some research for a 4-H project on herbs & I was surprised how many minerals & vitamins they had. A little bit goes a long way with greens, so don't over do it. Thyme is a nice edger. Oregano a nice mounding filler. Herb blooms are lovely, but then the herbs aren't as tasty, so keep 1/2 of the plant clipped. Lemon balm is tasty in small amounts, but can be an invasive reseeding plant if you don't keep it clipped. Your summer salad greens can go in the shade of your other plants & in patterns alternating red & green. If you start from seeds you'll have dozens of plants to tuck here & there. Even flowers can be eaten in salads... Here is a link that might be useful: edible flowers for salads

Taken last night, just for you. http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/1174/bermudafescuecomparison.jpg That brown grass on the top is bermuda as of yesterday. Not a green blade in sight. The grass adjoining that space is fescue and look how beautiful and dark green that is. Bermuda does not hold a candle to that color which is why fescue is used so much in professionally designed landscapes. Bermuda doesn't just "show the winter season" as you put it. It's brown in fall, winter and spring. And if it's dry summer, it's brown in summer. Heck, you're in Athens, you know it snowed here this week. Bermuda will not be green for some time to come. The only green bermuda you see is the lawns that have been taken over by weeds, which is most of them that haven't used pre-ermegent in the fall. Believe me, you don't want to be stuck with a brown, weed infested, ugly lawn while everyone else has a gorgeous lush fescue or thermal bluegrass lawn. You're in Athens,GA I'm sure you've heard of the term "Gnat line" being used. Well warm season grass is for areas "below the gnat line".

Since it should be obvious that nail-fin windows cannot be replaced after brick cladding has been installed over the fins, the only issue here is whether to accept the white windows or wait for the almond windows, therefore the subject of this thread has always been whether almond is worth the wait so it has always been about color preference. If you had shown us the design and actual colors we could have had a reasonable discussion but you didn't do that preferring to discuss who was at fault and the hardships this has caused you. In the end it appears you are dong beige on beige but no one will ever know for sure. Thank all of the members who responded and let it go.

If you build a loop and don't run a pump, it does usually take longer for the water to get hot. Much of that is because the loop is larger diameter - but that certainly depends on your setup now. It is fairly common to use a 3/4 pipe for a distance and then branch 1/2 off to fixtures. When you design a loop, it is always done this way. So it depends a lot on what you have now. You can homerun a 1/2 in pipe to speed things up without a pump. A 3/4 inch pipe carries just about double the water 1/2 does - which means double the time. Your 2 minutes could become 1 minute if it is currently off a 3/4 main and you homerun it with 1/2 inch. Can be even better if you remove elbows/tees. And even better if the route is less direct because it comes off a main. And then copper does not equal Pex. Copper steals a bit of the heat and doesn't flow the same. Does your tankless say it is ok to use with a pump? In the past, it was not recommended to run a pump with tankless but that has changed. The overly frequent cycles is not something the tankless were designed or warranted for. I know that there certainly are ones that are designed for a pump nowadays but not sure all of them are. Could mean a warranty denial if it says to not use with a pump. I have to think extra wear and perhaps more maintenance is a consequence of having a pump. The tankless will fire say every 15-20 minutes when the pump is running. I had a monitor on a pump and the pump ran 7 minutes in every 20 to keep the loop warm. Then the heater would run once every 20 minutes to reheat the tank for about 5 minutes. Length and insulation characteristics would change this of course.