I should have looked a little more, Here is a 2 minute Youtube video does does a great job of showing you how. I did the looking because I am curious about Picassa having never tried it, many here seem to like the program.

Pam: This site has been acting very strange lately. I couldn't even get on this morning. That link doesn't go to the one I had, and now the link shows up on your posting, not mine. So, I copied the directions from the post I had: Easy to sew valance directions Posted by my3dogs (My Page) on Thu, Jul 17, 08 at 20:01Hi everyone! Here are the directions for the valances that you saw in the post linked below. They ARE EASY - but the directions are long, because I am trying to give you enough detail, even if you are a beginner. Read them all the way through so you understand them, and ask any questions you may have. If you are a real novice, you may want to make a sample using just muslin, or other inexpensive fabric, til you get the hang of it. This is a no-pattern valance that I started making last summer. It requires just straight stitching. My windows are generally about 50" (more or less)in height. If your windows are very short or very tall, you may want to vary the length of the fabric you use. I would say to err on the 'buy more' side though, so they don't look skimpy. The fullness adds richness. I generally use 1 1/4 yards of 54" wide home dec fabric to make the valance. You will need an equal amount of lining fabric. If you choose to put trim on the bottom (it adds a lot to the treatment, IMO) buy 1 1/2 yards of trim to make sure you have enough to go across the length of your 54" wide fabric. If your fabric is wider than 54", buy enough trim to cover its width. Cut your valance fabric and lining to equal lengths. I always measure the side edges of my fabric and mark the length before cutting. It may have not been cut straight at the store, and you want to be sure that your left side is the same length as your right side. Pin the two rectangles of fabric together on all sides, with the RIGHT (front) sides of the fabrics inside, facing each other. Before putting the fabrics together, I mark lightly on the back which is the TOP of the print (if using a print) and which is the bottom, so your print will end up right side up! Depending on the type of rod you plan to use for the valance, you need to leave openings on each side that will become your rod pocket. Continental rods (the flat wide plain ones) need a 4" rod pocket. If you use a decorative rod, with finals on the end that screw off, I would recommend making your rod pocket 2" wide. For a small tension rod, I'd make the rod pocket 1.5" wide. You don't want to force your fabric onto the rod - allow room to make it easy for you. Measure down from the TOP of your pinned together fabric, and make a light mark with pencil on each side, the size of your chosen rod pocket, plus 1/2". That 1/2" is going to be the width of your top seam. You'll be making a mark on the left and right sides 4 1/2" down from the top if you use a Continental rod, for example. Stitch from these marks down each side to the bottom, using a 1/2" seam. You'll need to leave an opening in the top or bottom to turn your valance inside out when you're done stitching. I'd suggest a 4" - 6" opening for turning. If your rod pocket openings are 4", you don't need to leave another opening, you can use them to turn it inside out. Mark the opening you need to leave, then stitch across the top and bottom edges, using a 1/2" seam, leaving your opening...well...OPEN! Clip your fabric corners off OUTSIDE of your stitching. This is just a small triangle of fabric from each corner. This will allow you to get nice sharp edges on your corners when your turn the valance right side out, as it reduces the bulk of fabric there. Turn your valance right side out, pulling it through the opening you left. I use a wooden chop stick to push the fabric gently at the corners to make them nice and square, once I have turned mine right side out. Don't push too hard, or you may poke a hole through your valance! At this point, you should have a lined rectangle of fabric, with rod pocket openings near the top of each side. Close the opening you left for turning, either by folding and pressing the edges in and hand stitching it closed, or use 'stitch witchery' type of fusing tape to do it. You can also sew it closed with your sewing machine, but you want to do it right at the edge. You want to make this closure as 'invisible' as possible, so I always use fusible tape. Carefully iron your valance. Use your fingers to work the edges, so that you have your seam right in the middle of each edge, so you don't see the front fabric on the backside, and you don't see the lining from the front. Now, to stitch the rod pocket. You will be making one row of stitching across the front of your fabric from side to side. Measure down from the top edge, so you have the same length opening on each side. The size of the opening you left on each side was determined above by the type of rod you're using. You can lightly pencil on the line that you need to stitch across, or do what I do - Place the fabric on the sewing machine, and put the needle down on the place where you'll start stitching. Take a 4" (approx) length of masking tape, and lay it against the upper edge of the fabric, to the right of the needle, and stick it to the sewing machine base. You can use this tape edge as a guide to hold the top edge of your fabric against as you stitch across. It helps you make a straight, even rod pocket. My sewing machine has tape on it for all different widths of rod pockets! If you chose to put trim on the bottom of your valance, do it now. I use 'Aleen's OK To Wash-It' fabric glue that you can get at WalMart or a fabric store. If you use glue, just follow the directions on the bottle to glue your trim evenly to the front bottom of your valance. I lay my valance on my kitchen island, and let it set overnight, while the glue dries. You can also stitch your trim on, either by hand or by machine. I prefer the glue, because you see no stitching on the back side. (I'm anal.) Now to make the ties. You can simply buy ribbon (such as grosgrain) or use purchased cord (see my dining room silk ones in the link) or make them out of fabric. Use either the same fabric or a coordinating one. Here, you first need to decide if you are going to tie your valance up with bows, or do knots. Bows take longer ties. Allow yourself a MINIMUM of 36" long ties. You can always cut them shorter if necessary, but you can't make them longer. I suggest hanging your valance up and using string to tie them up temporarily to see how long you need to make your ties. (It's longer than you think!) Cut your strips of fabric approx 4" wide and the length you have decided on above for your ties. Fold and pin the strips in half the the short way, so you have a long strip of fabric that is 2" wide. Make sure the right sides are together, (inside) because you are going to turn them inside out after stitching. Stitch along the pinned edge of each strip, about 1/4" from the edge. Now the fun part - turn those narrow strips inside out. My chop stick comes in handy for this, but use whatever method you choose to accomplish this. Press the ties just as you did the valance rectangle, making sure your seam is even on the edge. I fold in the raw ends and use my fusible tape to close them, but you can machine stitch them closed or do it by hand - Your choice. Your valance is done! Put it on your rod, using the rod pocket. Hang it in your window. Now, take the ties, and simply drape them over the rod on each side, having half of the tie fabric strip hanging in front, and the other half of the tie hanging behind the valance. Now, gather up one side of the valance in your hands, and reach behind it it grab the dangling tie in back. Tie up the valance, by tying the front and back pieces of the tie together, either in a knot or a bow. Do the same with the other side, making sure your ties on each side are tied up at the same length. Now stand back and make sure your valance looks even at the bottom on each side. Use your hand to 'finger fold' and drape your fabric until the look is what you want. You'll be surprised at what a difference it can make in the look by spacing your ties closer together, or moving them further apart on the rod. Also by tying the ties higher or lower... This is where you need to play around until you get the look you want. On the HGTV message board, a woman made these and kept posting pics asking for advice - Higher? Lower? Move the ties apart or closer...It's really all up to you. Hers looked GREAT when she was done, and she was so pleased to have made her own custom valance. I hope you all feel the same way, if you try them! BTW, what is the name of your inspiration fabric? I'm looking for fabric for my bathroom, and I'll look for yours while I'm at it. Dee

Our old house use to have a window that looked out to the south. when the south deck was added, the window now looked out onto the deck. When the deck was enclosed and turned into a laundry/pantry, the window looked into that. There was another window looking outside from the laundry room. The someone added a covered porch off the laundry room - so from the kitchen you looked through the laundry room out the second window, through the covered deck and outside. By this time it let very little light into the kitchen. The PO before us took out the window and put in shelves between the kitchen and laundry room. This is the only picture I can find showing the shelves. While that is my DH standing in the kitchen, this was before we put in an offer so none of the belongings are mine. I'm not "into" collecting stuff. We had serious rot and foundation issues to deal with, and all this was gutted and changed. Right now I do have a window in my sewing room that looks out over the deck. The deck is small and open. It faces east so I only get direct sunlight for a few hours in the morning.

Be aware that a CD-R and CD+R are 'write once' and read many times media. That is, once a apace on the disk has been written to, it is no longer available for writing. You can delete a file, but the space it occupied will not be available anymore. Now this part, I'm not to sure about - I'd have to do some checking - but, I recall that a space is reserved for the directory which is about 50 KB. Anytime the disk is 'opened' and new files added, a new directory must be written when the disk is closed. This new directory gets written into ther reserved space and the space where the old directory was gets marked off limits. After awhile, the disk runs out of reserved space for directories and can longer accept new files because there is no more "new" unwritten space available either for new directories or for files. Clicking on "properties" will show the disk not full when in fact it has no more 'new' space to write to. CR-R and CD+R work best for a one time mass file transfer, i.e., 20 files are written to CD from a hard drive in one drag-and-drop opertion. Or maybe, a folder (containing a bunch of files) is dragged and dropped to the CD. One should check for the amount of space needed for the files, else the copy process will balk before the entire set of files have been transferred (when the file transfer runs out of space). CDRW refers to read and write. It operates just like any other magnetic media, e'g', floppy disk and hard drives. The space on a CDRW can be erased and written to again. It does have a limited re-write time, however. Any one area can be rewritten from 1000 to 10,000 times and then becomes 'worn out'. I have heard arguments both pro and con about which is the best media for archiving - CR R or CDRW. The CD R proponents say that since any specific region on the disk is written only once, it will retain the data best of all; Others say that a CDRW can do just as well so long as it has not been overwritten on a regular basis. I tend to use CDRW for everything and format before using. I keep a few formatted disks on hand. In that way, I don't have to think about a bunch of stuff when I suddently need a CD - I just grab one out of my formatted stash and go.