I know it is a very old thread to revive, but I thought I'd pitch in since the OP did not report back here. This is one of the few posts that pops up on Google when searching for non c sinensis, camellia tea. I've made tea from my camellia japonica and it compares favorably with commercial tea. It has a surprisingly fragrant, fresh profile and definitely has body. I did not detect any bitterness, before and after adding a little honey. The tea is very soothing. It is a very simple process to make the tea. I used a similar process to the one on the link provided. I prefer to cut and then rub my leaves and buds much finer than the ones pictured. I've also dried the leaves in the microwave instead of the oven. It is a really delicious tea & I will try to make a green version too. Right now I'm attempting to make it in enough quantities to store, instead of just enough for a single pot or cup. Here is a link that might be useful: Making black tea from your camellia japonica

Hello, danrobjon. The browned leaves sound like a lack of moisture problem. Here in Texas, I keep the soil moist and well mulched & the plants shaded (starting at 10-11am) throughout our 100-110F summers and experience no leaf brown outs. Maintain an appropriate watering schedule and resist the temptation to water just based on the temperatures. Check the soil moisture daily by inserting a finger to a depth of four inches and see how the soil feels: dry, moist or wet. If it feels dry or almost dry then water deeply. Otherwise, leaves watering for another day. You will soon notice yourself watering on a certain schedule (say, every two/three/four days). At that point, then set the sprinkler to water the plants on that schedule. If the temperatures go up/down 10-15 degrees, check daily again to see if your schedule needs tweaking or if you need to increase the amount of water that they get. Remember that this works both ways. You should reduce the amt of water when fall brings moderating temperatures. The problem we have during the summer months is actually that of watering too much. We feel the heat and want to give the plants a break so we water. Watering frequently causes the soil to be wet too often. If the soil remains wet for a long time because of lots of rain or drainage issues, the roots can develop root rot. By checking the soil manually and only watering when the soil begins to feel almost dry then you prevent root rot. Your plants may have dried out a little and this caused some leaves to brown out. However, from your description it looks as if they have recovered. Keep them shaded during the hot afternoon sun, keep them well mulched with 3-4" of acidic mulch and keep the soil moist (not wet). Do not fertilize them when they are stressed. The partly browned leaves will stay on until it is time to shed leaves. When this happened to me once during winter (yes, you should water then too if your soil does not freeze), I left those leaves on until the plant shed them on its own. Others prune them for aesthetic reasons. Does this help you, danrobjon? Good luck, Luis

The truth is that, oftentimes, camellias don't seem to take well to being grown inside. Birdinthepalm is a happy exception! It appears to be difficult to create the kind of atmosphere that they will thrive in. Particularly during the winter, when typical indoor humidity levels go way down inside. That, in combination with some improper watering practices (maybe?) could cause some real problems. A fast draining potting mix is always best for containerized plants, making over watering more difficult. If your medium drains properly, then you SHOULD water it to overflow each time, rather than giving it little sips. However, I've sure seen some soils that were mucky and soggy, and difficult to manage. Birdinthepalm explained it perfectly....they like being uniformly moist, but must never be overwatered! A fast draining mix makes that possible.

Here's what I have on it. If you have any luck with it, care to share a seed or two? Soak seed in warm water for 24 hours before sowing, or gently rub a hole through the seed coat with sandstone or sand paper. The seed coat is fragile, so take care not to crush the seed during the process. The seeds are about the size and shape of hazelnuts. Hollow seeds and low germination percentages are common occurrences. Seeds remain viable for one year. Plant 1cm deep in warm soil and keep moist until germination. Typical germination period is 6 to 8 weeks Plant requires 4-12 years to bear seed. At first, seedlings should be shaded. Seedlings 6-12 months old may be outplanted with a ball of earth, while much older seedlings can be planted bare-rooted. Cuttings from the stem, taken 10cm from the ground from winter through to summer, can be inserted in the soil at an angle so that the subtending leaf rests on the medium. Rooting is slow, and bottom heat is recommended. Needs full sun to part shade. They prefer a well drained, soil rich in organic matter, pH 4.5- 5.5. The root hairs are very fine, so the plant cannot be allowed to dry out completely. Increase watering when the plant is actively growing and when the plant is in bloom. Fertilise every 2-3 weeks in spring through to autumn, use a fertiliser for acid loving plants diluted to half the strength recommended on the label. Prune directly after flowering. Repot every 2-4 years in late winter or early spring. Plant is frost hardy to Â6C. Once established, mulch heavily. Harvesting: Terminal sprouts with 2-3 leaves are usually hand-plucked, usually every 7-15 days, depending on the development of the tender shoots. Leaves that are slow in development always make a better flavoured product. Green, Oolong and black (ÂnormalÂ) tea are all made from the leaves of the same plant. Green tea leaves are allowed to wither in hot air then pan-fried to halt the oxidation (fermentation) processes. The leaves of Oolong tea are wilted in sunlight, bruised and allowed to partially oxidise, until reddening of the leaf edges occurs. Black teas leaves are fermented in cool, humid rooms, until the entire leaf is darkened. Freshly picked leaves are spread very thinly and evenly on trays and placed in the sun until the leaves become very flaccid, requiring 13 hours or more, depending on heat and humidity. Other types of black teas are made by withering the leaves, rolling them into a ball and allowing to ferment in a damp place for 3-6 hours, at which time the ball turns a yellowish copper color, with an agreeable fruity one. If this stage goes too far, the leaves become sour and unfit for tea. After fermenting, the ball is broken up and the leaves spread out on trays and dried in oven until leaves are brittle and have slight odor of tea.. As soon as harvested, leaves are steamed or heated to dry the natural sap and prevent oxidation to produce green tea. Still soft and pliable after the initial treatment, the...