What we've found that's effective and not very expensive is to use good-sized plastic boxes and silica gel cat litter (a cup more or less per box) for those dried flowers that need it. You can tie the litter in a cheesecloth bag, if you wish, to make it easier to handle. Many things don't need any help, even though our summers in Michigan can also be quite humid -- achillea, statice, filipendula, eryngiums, artemisias and many more are stored in our barn in large cardboard bins, open at the top. The most sentitive things are gomphrenas, hollyhocks and helichrysums -- just the stems, in all three cases. They can re-absorb moisture from the atmosphere even after they seem to be quite dry. These are the ones that go into plastic boxes or tubs with lids. We put them in fairly thin layers with each layer separated from the next by a sheet of newspaper. We also put peonies in plastic boxes even though they dry very thoroughly and don't seem to reabsorb moisture, because they are favorite snacks of Indian meal moths. We protect the blooms during drying, then freeze them for a week, then thaw them then store them in boxes with silica gel. Since we don't have to use a lot of closed boxes and since we sell the flowers, now use aluminum packs of silica gel that can be regenerated again and again by heating the the oven -- we can justify the initial expense that way -- but the silica gel cat litter crystals should be an affordable solution. I'll also include a link to one supplier of the aluminum packs. In these are often used for storing ammunition, so if you order any you may get on some strange mailing lists. Here is a link that might be useful: Silica Gel in Aluminum Packs

Different herbs dry differently. I am just getting started at drying herbs myself. First off, flavor in dried herbs varies greatly depending on the herb. I have some books that tell you just don't bother, but done properly, they do dry and retain flavor, even such as basil and parsley (which in the grocery store resemble and taste like dried hay to me). But, I've dried basil and had it work well. Oregano and thyme can be dried laid out on a mesh screen. You can strip them first or after (if you don't mind some stems). Fluff occasionally to rotate from bottom. Store the herbs as whole leaf as possible, waiting to crumble until you use them. If you don't have a screen, you can use paper towels, just make sure they stay dry (change them if wet). I have been having really good luck drying chives in a fine mesh lingerie bag. For chives, you do need to chop them first (or you'll end up with hay) before drying. I lay the bag on a wire shelf in my basement with a fan nearby for air circulation. They dry in a couple days, though the entire basement will smell like onions. So far, I have not had luck in drying garlic chives. Woody stem herbs generally hang to dry--rosemary, lavender, mint, sage. This can also work with thyme and oregano depending on the conditions where you're drying. Dry in a dark, warm place with good air circulation (or a fan to help). Fine herbs like dill or fennel weed, need to be stripped before drying. Dry laid out on paper towels. I particularly enjoy a little fennel weed, and it's harder to find grocery. I prefer to strip basil and lemon verbena prior to drying. I generally wash and hang them until dry to touch, then strip them and dry flat. Both can get a tough center vein on mature leaves that will need to be stripped out prior or after drying. Tarragon I dry in the microwave to prevent it from turning black, but I've heard that it removes more flavor doing it that way. But I dry because my Guild makes herb blends to sell, so we need the green leaves. I would also love to hear how others do it.

Is there no way to "can" them safely in oil? No. With the exception of a few tested recipes no oil is allowed in home canned foods as it coats the bacteria and prevents the processing heat from killing them. But let's back up a minute - in one post you said "oven dried" and then later you said "oven roasting" them. Drying (dehydrating) and roasting are 2 very different processes with very different results and to a degree different rules apply. Oven dried tomatoes are just plain tomatoes usually cut in half or quarters, spread in a single layer on a drying sheet and dried at a very low heat of 140-150 for 8-10 hours or more depending on size. When done they retain little to no juice, are stiff but still slightly flexible. Roasted tomatoes are usually brushed with a bit of oil, spread out in a roasting pan and cooked at roasting temps of 250-350 for approximately 1-3 hours. When done they still retain much of their juice but develop a semi-charred appearance, especially the skins So you really need to clarify exactly what you are doing with your tomatoes - step-by-step please including the amount of time in the oven and a description of what they look like when they come out of the oven. Dave

just lift the lid, stick the hose in the, and fill it up. I usually count to about 30 seconds. The argon itself is so inexpensive, I'm not concerned with whether ten seconds is enough or 30 seconds is too much. The above method works as well with using thinner. I just prefer to not to do that since I don't like adding thinner to oil paints. And I don't want to always have to decant. From my experience thinner changes the sheen on oil paints. I prefer penetrol for making it flow better. And there is an oil spar varnish I use, which absolutely will not mix with paint thinner. And there is an interior oil varnish I use that the thinner will not just sit on top, it will mix readily with that resin.. I've tried the bloxygen stuff, but found that the cans really have very little product in them. When my argon tank is empty, I can fill it for less than twenty dollars and have at least 500 dollars worth of argon for what bloxygen charges.