Andrea, I hope you will get a lot of different response...here's mine...

This fall will be the fifth year for me starting seeds. I tend to start mine beginning Dec, so they've been refrigerated for quite a while.

I don't do it as carefully as you, I use Promix in cups under lights, nothing fancy. However, prior to the last two years, I had virtually no problem with seeds...it made me a a bit confident, I'm afraid.

The last two years, I have had seeds mold...seeds that I would take out of the refrigerator moldy... I'm picky about who I buy from now...also, I make more of my own seeds each year.

One of the things that I've noticed this year...(from my own seeds) is that time matters. Some of my seeds appear to be maturing prematurely (I suspect the rust may push this) as the scapes are dying. Usually, those seeds are either too dry and crunch right in my fingers or they are mushy and damp. You can tell the difference, the more seeds you handle.

I don't necessarily think the wrinkling matters as long as the seeds are viable. You will get a feel for the seeds. I toss out any that don't feel right...for any reason.

What I was getting at is that it looks to me like six weeks or more (at least here) is required for good seeds. Some have dates from late June...which is pushing two months...and those seeds are usually always fine. I'm sort of at peak harvest right now...and I'm Zone 7...

So, I don't know this...but I suspect some sellers may be harvesting their seeds too soon. After I pick my pods, I dry them in little cups for a few days and then bag them, list them on my spreadsheet and refrigerate them.

It isn't just the money, (I've never asked for money back for purchased seeds that molded or rotted)...but, there's a lot of time, trouble, and work in bringing a seedling to bloom. My time and my money are valuable and I don't want to waste either.

That said, it's always a bit of a gamble. Here are a few sellers that I've bought from for years and always get good seeds (Since I'm buying less, I don't have to worry about the competition...lol...but, it's the least I can do for good sellers, right): Jeffbard aka Jeffb, Boxcar, Spunky1, Sandlapper and Yardman. Of those, Yardman will sell later as he grows further north. I also bought from Dot here on gw (Ladylovingdove) last year (and this year!) and was happy with my seeds. And Shelly from GA, too. I don't think you'll go wrong with any of those sellers....if the seeds don't germinate well from them, well (laughing), then it probably is you (kidding)!

*Disclaimer....just because I didn't mention someone doesn't mean they are or aren't good....those were just the first ones that came to mind.

Good luck, Andrea....and don't give up. Just curious, are you planting these outside as it seems early to grow them indoors until next spring?

Some seeds just take longer to germinate (I've gone as long as 21 days from stratification to germination after putting them in a warm closet).

Others seeds have a genetic "dormancy" that must be broken to get them to germinate. Because it is genetic, there can be some of these from any cross or none from a particular cross. You cannot look at them and tell which is dormant or not, nor can you guess by the cross. If your seeds don't germinate w/in 3 weeks of soaking in the peroxide solution they may be dormant.

What seems most effective for breaking that dormancy, at least some of the time (I certainly have many ungerminated seeds from last year where this did not do the trick) is stratification (ie. moist + cold). Storing the seeds dry in refrigerator does not count toward this. Some studies others have done indicate that 6 wks is optimal length of time to break dormancy on a high population of dormant seeds.

I noticed a pattern on some of my seeds that leads me to suspect another factor is at play. I have no scientifically controlled studies to prove this but I had some seeds respond to cycling them between the cold stratification & the warm, moist germination closet. They would sprout during the warm-up period and I could cool them for only 12 hours and then put them back into warm and see germination within 48 hours. These were seeds that had failed to germinate after 10 or more weeks of stratification.

I have one seedling that germinated 11 months after I started started trying to germinate it and a couple others that were 8 months after I first started germination process.

As far as rotting it is hard to tell. Something could have happened to kill the seeds during storage or shipping, they may have been harvested prematurely, the cross may have been unviable, a bacteria could have gotten into the batch some how.

Gonegardening I didn't want to name the seller of the seeds that I've had bad luck with. It isn't anyone you listed as buying seeds from. My 100% germination seller is on your list, it is JeffB. I'm already looking at more from him.

I've decided not to buy from the first seller again. Even though I did pay more than normal for the seeds that rotted. I wouldn't ask for money back. There really isn't anyway to prove it was the sellers fault. Plus they have a disclaimer on their auctions.

I wouldn't have bought seeds this year had I not had the deer incident. Hard to polinate with no blooms LOL

I took another look at my seeds and I was unfair to Watermelon Taffy. All the seeds where it was the pollen parent rotted. I have 4 seeds where it was the pod parent and 2 of them have germinated.

I figure any seeds that don't germinate in 21 days they will go in the fridge for a night then back out. I did an experiment and direct sowed in potting mix 9 seeds. None germinated in 3 weeks 1 rotted. So I rinsed them off and put them in a plastic container with a lid.

I don't know if I'd have the patience to wait 11 months for a seed to germinate LOL Guess it would depend on the cross.

I have started these indoors and do plan on growing them indoors till next spring. I have a spare bedroom all set up with racks and grow lights. We will see how it goes. LOL

Thanks for the advice and help. The best way to learn is from people who have done it.

Andrea

Seems to me there is more risk buying seeds on the LA than plants. I mean, almost every seller sends plants even if sometimes small or dissapointing. Buying seeds, one has to invest lots of time and effort before one knows if they are good and then who is sure if it was bad seeds or buyer errors?

I don't have much to add to what's been posted above. Some crosses do seem to take a lot longer than others for the pods to mature. I've seen crosses that I made early in the season finish later than ones that were set in mid season. I always figure atleast 45 days to a full 6 weeks for seed pods to finish out. If their not splitting or won't split when gentley squeezed I won't harvest them. Last year was one of the worst years for me seed wise. I had a large number of seeds both from LA sellers and even some of my own that refused to germinate. It's dissapointing and sometimes costly when that happens. Still I've never written anyone unless the seeds arrived soft and squishy. Im not buying from anyone this year that sold me an inordinatley large amount of unviable seed.

I concur with the recommendations above. Jeffb, Boxcar, aladyreb, yardman, ruby, have always been reliable seed sellers in my experience. I'm glad that I no longer need to buy much off the LA anymore.

Linda

I'll throw in my 2 cents worth here...I've been buying seeds on the LA for three years and selling seeds for two years. I've had at least an 85% sucess rate with all the seeds I've purchased. I have found that it is important how I handle my seeds and when I germinate them.
I always check them well when they arrive and then get them back in the fridge. I start seeds from Oct. to April, in the house then move outside to greenhouse or just outside when they are at least 3 inches tall. I soak seeds in a 50 -70 % peroxide solution until I see a sprout.
I check every day and change the solution at least every three days. Sprouted seeds go in large cups of pro mix, just under the surface of the soil. I've tried to start daylily seeds other ways and at other times and found that summer heat is a killer. I think we all have to find what method works for us.
This year has been wetter than normal for many hybridizers. I think there may be more mold spores hiding on the seeds. I receive some seeds with a bit of cinnamon on them, as that seller says it helps to prevent mold.
It seems to work for those seeds.
I have many seeds for sale now on the LA and I've carefully culled them before drying, after drying and will do so again when they are sold and ready to send.
Most LA seed sellers will replace seeds that you truly beleive were not viable. I do, and have replaced customers seeds when they asked for various reasons, including mold, sprouting before arrival, and not sprouting at all. This only happened to a couple shipments, one to Canada and one to S. Dakota. It's worth asking for replacements of same or similiar crosses.
Yes, it's always a gamble, but one I take because I get genes that I don't otherwise have access to.
Seed sellers invest a great deal of time and energy creating the seeds and harvesting, storing and selling, and they are taking a risk as well that no one will want to buy them. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, but I always try to remember to keep my prices and my bids as low as I can. To me, it's more about getting some new daylily babies than anything else, and sharing the seeds I can't possibly find room to plant, plus the small profit on the side. You know that any of us that utilize the LA love it...A LOT!
Nina

Rita, it is a gamble. There is no guarantee that the seeds will sprout or what does sprout will give you a viable plant. I understand that when I place my bid.

I did put a lot of work into the seeds that rotted but the person who did the hybridizing and putting them up for sale did a lot of work also. I just hope their work was for the joy of making the crosses instead of profit.

It is disheartening to have a cross you were so excited about just rot. But, it won't keep me from buying more. If it is a cross I'm interested in. Most of the seeds I have purchased are from plants I just can't afford to buy.

I look at it like this. If I pay $10 for 5 seeds and out of those 5 seeds I get just 1 that I can use in my hybridizing or even one I could register. I more than make that $10 back. Just like going to Vegas and playing the slots LOL

When I first started doing crosses five years ago, a lot of my seeds molded. I suspected it had to do with very humid conditions, or picking the pods too early. Also, sudden temperature changes cause condensation inside the plastic bags. I've learned to put a little square of thick, white paper towel in each back. That will soak up the moisture caused by condensation and reduce the possibility of mold forming in the refrigerator or in the mailing process.

Debra
Lilipod on the Lily Auction

Your mouldy seeds were probably not dried properly. The only times I have had trouble with mould were either when I didn't let the seeds dry long enough. Now how long is long enough? Well I when I pick pods now they are emptied into paper envelopes and left on the enclosed back porch for 3 to 4 weeks, yes weeks not days. I did the dry them for 4 days and put them in ziplocs and into cold storage once, and that is where I ran into trouble. I have also purchased seeds on the LA, and many have been fine, but I actually had some arrive mouldy, and some mould while they were in cold storage. Now if I purchase seed I dry it for a week or so before I store it. I once had some very expensive seeds arrive sprouted, and if I would have wanted to plant them right away that would have been great, but I ended up losong them all to damping off and fungus gnats, which are 2 of the reasons I plant outdoors in the Spring.

As a precautionary measure you can give your seeds a bleach bath. I prepare a 10% bleach solution, drop in the seeds, cover and swish around for about 30 seconds. Then I allow the seeds to dry on a paper towel. After that, don't handle them. Use sterilized (or clean with anti-bacterial soap) tweezers or forceps.

This process will only eliminate any surface cause for mold. It will not prevent mold that can form on seeds if they are oozing goo because they've gone bad. If you see one seed in a package of 5 looking like its going bad, remove all seeds, toss the packaging and the bad seed, treat the remaining 'good' seeds (as stated above) and re-store in a new package (baggie, envelope, container of your choice).

I offer no guarantees but it does seem to help curb the worst of it.