This may be a bit late to help your plant, but I have to ask what have you been doing to take care of this plant? Leaf drop is indicative of a root problem and root problems can be caused by many factor - like transplant shock (caused during transplant), or was it overwatered and it drowned out the roots, or was there a period of non-watering and caused the roots to shriver, or did you fertilize which is a no-no shortly after a transplant or during winter. I'm not sure what you meant by everytime you moved it to sunlight - It should have steady access to light. MOist but not overly moist earth. Scratch the bark off the main trunk and if you still see a lively green colour, there's hope for this plant. If not, it's too late. Ianna

unlike the thread above I am in UK and surprisingly the plant which is now 2ft has survived my not so green hands. Sunlight here is a rarity hence its all the more of a challenge for the plant to survive this long in inexperienced hands. It is kept in the kitchen where it is generally warm but cant substitute the sunlight, wish I could. More recently it is getting black towards the growing tips. Fresh shoots develop but they soon turn black and drop off. They are watered sparingly (weekly) and get Babybio as the feed(2-3 drops while watering). should I be doing anything or should nature take its course. any advise is helpful but bear in mind you are dealing with a not-so-green-hands. aj

The fruit needs to mature before you can harvest the seed. The seed inside will be quite large compared to the size of the fruit. I don't actually know what the mature fruit looks like because I got mine in the mail and the fruit/rind had already been cleaned from around the seed. I believe that is required by law to stop the spread of citrus greening disease. Curry leaf tree seed must be fresh to be viable, if it dries out it won't grow. Apparently I posted here years and years ago when I was living in another state, that plant died pretty quickly. I got seed from a grower in Hawaii about 5 or 6 years ago and most of those plants are still alive and most of the seed DID germinate, all of it, eventually, as far as I remember now. Mine are currently not doing as well as I could wish because where I live now they only get a month or two of outside time. I DO NOT put them out until it is at least 50F at night here, this year that didn't happen until mid-July. I expect to have to bring them back in soon because night time temps are already back into the 50F range, it won't be long before they start falling below 50F. It is OK to schlep them in and out during the daytime, and I used to do that, but I've become old and decrepit and its too much for me to do that every day any more. Right now mine are past due for a repot, the organic portion of my Growstone-peat-bark planting mix is pretty well spent. Mine flower every year for the past 3 or 4 years but they never set fruit, I'm not sure why - lack of pollinators possibly because I live in the High Sierra Desert area at 5400' altitude. I wish my Walmart carried curry leaf plant LOL!

Well, the main pot has been knocked over several times by storms, and on one of those occasions a very discriminating chipmunk came and bit off all of the suckers except for the biggest one. Grr. (Plant is now tied to a rigid post.) But even if that hadn't happened, the only advice I've found about rooting curry leaf from a sucker would have me cutting off that major root, on either side of the sucker. Illustrations don't show any root hairs on the major feeder root that would have to be cut. I don't see how this is any more likely to succeed than taking a cutting, and I cannot risk losing the whole plant by doing such drastic surgery in a relatively small pot. Update re cuttings I took in early summer: I planted them in new "Miracle Gro" potting soil, supplemented with perlite. They have all failed: rot. They have never been watered since first planting, and it's been 7 weeks now. That's how humid it has been here in Minnesota this summer. I have today taken a couple more cuttings. If you look at videos from India etc or read the "usual" advice, you'll see that they recommend taking cuttings that are a pencil-size in diameter. "Hah" say I. A pencil-size in diameter, that has to be only semi-hard, from a plant growing in a 15" pot?? That simply can't exist. My semi-hard cuttings are about 1/8" in diameter. And they're short. They look good to me: proportional. But we'll see. I have set up a Forsyth pot: terra cotta outer and inner pots. Medium is straight vermiculite, nothing else. Vermiculite was watered with soft water (from the lake I live next to). The same water went into the water supply pot. Cutting prep: Advice I've seen runs from stripping the bark/skin of the cutting for the lower 2" before dipping in rooting hormone, to no recommendation of stripping any skin at all. My compromise on these cuttings was to peel away about half to two thirds of the skin. I suspect the principle may be that the rooting hormone contacts living tissue on the cut edge of the skin? Because I doubt anything can really grow from heartwood. Stripping away all the skin seems like you're stripping away all chance at life. I followed with rooting hormone plus the usual procedures for setting cuttings in whatever medium. The Forsyth pot is outdoors in full shade, with no bag or covering, because humidity levels here are reasonable right now. Dew points in the 50's-60's. I'll be watching carefully and bag the pot if it looks like stuff is wilting. (I threw a few star jasmine cuttings in as well because why not.) My observation is that there is no authoritative advice about starting curry plants from cuttings, that either supposedly works everywhere, or can be adapted to Anywhere USA. No recommendations re details of medium, lighting, temperatures day/night, or humidity; nothing about how long it should take. If anyone can suggest ideals with regard to any of these parameters I'll be happy to hear. If you watch videos from India where this plant is nearly a "weed," it looks like it grows in powder-dry soil, and gets potted up in same. So I'm going with the nutrient-free, airy, but fairly moisture retentive vermiculite. At worst I'll just have to bring the space-hog tree into the house again, and keep trying. My next step will be to cut back a couple of the long-to-the-side-reaching branches "hard." Not all of them, lest cutting back beyond where there's visible green growth results in basically killing that branch, as it would with, say, a spruce tree. But if I do a couple, and the tree pushes new growth well back toward the central trunk, that means there's a chance I can eventually make the tree fit better into my house for the winter. If the cuttings fail and I have to try again next year. Kinda feel like I'm talking to the air here, since no one has responded in over two weeks. But maybe my musings and experience so far will help someone else. I'll update in 4-6 weeks unless somebody actually says something. Joan