As you noted, Anne, many plants (herbs) like consistently moist, but not saturated soil. Others, particularly the more woody-stemmed plants (rosemary, sage, thyme, even oregano & basil, etc.), like to become quite dry between waterings. Phill's observation about the plants with more succulent leaves appreciating a little more water than some of the herbs whose leaves are well adapted to conserving moisture was spot on, too. If the plants are not wilted, it's indication there is still ample water in the soil. If plants are wilted. It can mean there is not enough moisture available to the plant or it could mean that root damage may have occurred or root temperatures are too high. If, during the heat of summer wilting occurs while soil is still moist, it is a very good bet that one of the latter has occurred. Phil mentioned that he moved the plants to shade to get them out of full sun. It's likely that the sun was the culprit indirectly, by causing root temperatures to rise to a level where metabolism slows dramatically & water movement to the rest of the plant is seriously impeded. Since we know that herbs like full sun, if we find ways to reduce root temperatures, we can often leave them there. Sometimes, just setting them on cool soil is enough. Arranging containers so the canopy of one plant shades the container of another is effective as well. Timing water applications to coincide with when root temperatures are highest is also helpful, as is growing in light colored containers and/or coming up with additional ideas to help keep roots cool. Plants do not sip or drink water like we do. Water in liquid form (as in droplets or water occupying soil macro-pores) actually slows water absorption by roots. (Complicated, but I'll explain if you like) Plants absorb moisture molecule by molecule from a microscopic coating of water on soil particles. Even when soil appears completely dry, if the plant is not wilted there is still enough water on the surface of soil particles to satisfy hydration requirements. Of course, we don't want to stress or kill the plant outright by waiting until the last minute to water & possibly misjudging or forgetting to water altogether, so it's usually best to wait until soil is quite dry, but before signs of wilt are apparent before adding additional water. It is also a more effective way of insuring maximum air exchange to the roots when we water. Where the less succulent herbs are concerned, if the plants roots are well established in the container, you could easily wait to water until soil at the drain hole begins to show signs of being dry. Al

hello I don't have anything on your wants list, but I'm interested in the blue and white pots, what is the size? I could get some bird toys for you, I also have two gourd birdhouses, real nice painted with beaded hangers. one of the gourds is a dipper gourd one is an egg shape. I also have lots of dvd's on my trade list. thanks michelle

They won't influence each other's flavor, but each plant needs root room and unshaded sunshine to grow. A 20" pot is not too big for a few mint plants. If you grow bay laurel, keep it in its own pot, and move to a larger pot as the plant grows.

I am going to respectfully disagree with Turtle on many points and hope I don't confuse you. I admire the enthusiasm, and wish you good luck with growing and learning. First, correct on the temp for basil, but peppers prefer a higher temp for germination. Outside at this time of year in Boston would not qualify for either most likely. Both can be started from seed indoors, but without some grow lights, you're just not going to have good success and end up with very leggy plants. However, once it warms up--past frost free dates, and when the night time temps will stay above 50, you should be able to direct seed basil in your window box. I would recommend that it is the only one you plant there, unless you let us know dimensions and if big enough, you may be able to do the pepper too. Basil seeds are small--you won't need many in a spot, but you'll surely have more than one. Without knowing the dimensions of your box, it's hard to help with spacing. Second, while it is theoretically true that you can have multiple herbs in one pot (and you see them sold that way all the time), in reality, most just don't mix. You bought three very different preference herbs. Basil and mint both like moist, but well draining. But, as Bardamu said--mint just doesn't play well with others and will rapidly crowd out other herbs. Also, most mints don't reproduce by seed, but by cuttings to retain the flavor characteristics of the mother plant. What type of mint seed did you buy? Thyme is not difficult to grow from seed if you have the right conditions. It is prone to dying from "damping off"--a fungal disease common to seed starting. Also, it is slower to grow, so if you're looking for harvestability this summer, you're better off starting with a transplant. It is also perennial, unlike basil--the leaves will die down in your winter, but it would come back. It likes it's soil to be very well draining--I add a bonsai or succulent soil in with my potting soil to help prevent root rot. Because it wants to dry out more and will not use as much water, it's a bad candidate for combining with basil or mint. I would put it in it's own pot. Also, it is better to water the potting mix first, or even better--find a bucket or empty tote to mix the soil with water prior to putting in the box. Some mixes straight out of the bag tend to be hydrophobic--they'll repel water. You can end up with the entire center of the box completely dry, even if water is running out the bottom. Then, seeds won't germinate due to no water. Now, if the mix is damp to start with out of the bag, this will likely not be a problem, but I find that it's better to wet first. It also helps with not as much compaction or sinking. You also want to make sure you get a soil-less potting mix and not garden soil. If we know what you'll put in the box, we can help with watering tips then. Again, the size of the box and location it's going will also help--south facing, etc. Shade from trees or buildings?