Well, I'm not an expert and only have one concord grape vine. But here is my experience. I started mine in the front yard about 2 ft. from the side of the house. We have a HOA so it had to look "nice" so to speak. I bought two sturdy metal decorative frames about 2 1/2 ft. wide and 6 ft. tall. I set them next to each other side by side. I used a heavy metal garden fence stake to anchor it in the middle and wired the edges together and to the stake. So far its working wonderfully. The vine is vigorous though and could use up to twice as much space. I have to bend the vines down as they grow and weave them through the trellis frame to improve airflow. I control the vine with pretty heavy pruning in late winter to try to keep it fruitful and from taking over the side of the house. I trained the vine to two arms and a back up trunk/vine in case I ever need it. I get plenty of grapes from it and sometimes thin the grapes just to keep the vine healthy. In the summer I also have to trim off a couple of vines that try to climb up the side of the house. So to sum up, I definately could have given this vine more room to spread out but so far I couldn't have asked for a better outcome. ~Cindy

It is most likely our native clematis, C. ligusticifolia or C. vitalba, which has naturalized here in the PNW - I too have several popping up in my garden and they grow with the speed of light. One last year was back in a corner of my property euphemistically called the "nursery" were I tend to rescued plants and divisions I haven't decided to plant yet. Thinking it was just a recovering clematis, I let it grow. Some 30' later it had nearly smothered everything in its path. These two are somewhat difficult to distinguish as they both have very rapid, vigorous growth, similar leaf strucure and flowering, but all things considered, vitalba, even as an introduced species, tends to be more prolific. It self seeds freely and is a problem in greenbelts and other natural areas. It may even be listed on our state's noxious weed listing. My suggestion is to get rid of it ASAP.

I don't have a garage or shed (am in a hi-rise but was in a house for years before and do some vertical gardening on my balcony wall), but I do have vines for hummingbirds and recently butterflies have been visiting too (yes I get both up here...lol). Regarding your suggestions, you bring up good points and counter-points regarding trellising against a shed wall. Wood does rot after awhile (even with paint) and metal can rust and crumble after awhile (even with paint). It would be nice if one could find a similar large wall trellis in PVC (I know there are smaller ones that are tall but usually narrow too, but that might be something to think about to use). What I can offer would be like a small scale experience to help describe what the vines you are considering might do and the type of support you might need. Some of the vines that hummers like do include the honeysuckles, but if you choose a native (Loncera sempervirens), then those don't grow as aggressively or are as invasive as the japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica). There are many named varieties of the natives and my hummers couldn't wait until the flowers started opening yesterday and they were all over it. Mine ("Blanche Sandman") is in a pot and supported by a decorative vinyl-coated metal trellis. Interestingly, that honeysuckle seems a bit reticent to twine like other honeysuckles so it would basically mean manually threading it around the support and/or tying them initially until they are on their way. My other honeysuckle - a "Mandarin" (Lonicera x mandarin) does twine quite readily on its own and that is on a small wooden trellis support and yep, the hummers like that one too). But as a note, as a twiner, honeysuckles may have some difficulty going around something too large in diameter, although being woody vines, they do better than the annual vines on wider supports. Similarly, my American wisteria, which is not as aggressive as its asian cousins and as a woody vine, can twine better around a wider support, but the thinner the easier for it. My Blanche Sandman honeysuckle looks like this right now (sorry for the hazy picture but it's hazy here...ugh... this is its 2nd year with me, it was from a 1 gallon size plant that I got last year). These have a tendency for bare bottoms (I have seen larger specimens do similar) with a mass of vinelettes and flowers towards the top (unless you prune to make it bushier - the japanese honeysuckle tends to do the long vines): The SRBs, cypress vines and cardinal climbers have thinner vine shoots and need a finer support to attach to. I have seen some interesting suggestions for that on the large scale where one can string fishing line up for them. Since they are annuals (and the cardinal climber is in the colder areas although they might reseed), and unless you can find white or clear netting, using fishing line might be more aesthetically neutral in winter when the support area is exposed after they die back. The crossvine and trumpet vine are woody like honeysuckle and sortof twine but can become shrubby as well. So for any of the woody vines, a good solid support would be a must. The trumpet vine can get aggressive so unless you are willing to hack it back (I have seen people grow it like a standard), then you might want to reconsider. The crossvine might get that way too, although it's not as aggressive and there are some pretty cultivars out there. If you did decide on clematis (I have one on a cheapy tomato cage) it depends on the type as the group 3s like I have can be cut to the ground every year and will bloom on new growth (meaning for a trellis, it needs to be re-trained each year), whereas the group 1s and 2s maintain a woody structure and require minimal pruning. These attach via their leafs, which wrap around the support, so too thick or wide a support and they can't climb well on their own and they will attach to themselves and then fall over in a tangled mess. But for the ones maintaining a woody structure, if you thread and train the vine (even tie it up), you can shape it permanently. For attaching to a wall, it's probably best to have it on a stand-off (maybe a few inches out) so that you can get behind it and allow the plants to be woven around and through it easier. Plus it keeps the back of the plants off a hot wall and allows some air to move behind. Anyway, hope this helps a little - when I was composing this, I saw a butterfly that I wasn't sure of. Someone from above was looking out for me because I took a WAG and checked a PA butterfly site and immediately ID'd it on a first try as a silver-spotted skipper. I have alot of red flowers blooming up here right now and I guess it saw those and the leaves of my wisteria and maybe thought the wisteria was a locust tree or related (these apparently like pea family plants and the wisteria leaves resemble such): I did have a visit from an Eastern Black swallowtail last weekend: And I'm still trying to get a good picture of my hummers this year but here's a rare one from last year where 2 were sitting not far from each other and had they known the other was there, the mad chase would have errupted (plus you can see my volunteer MGs around the shepherd's hook where the feeder was hung - they did use the MGs as they were closing by the way):

I grow clematis on a range of found metal objects, usually things that were made of "wrought" iron and are no longer trendy, so are relatively cheap or occasionally free on Craigslist, Freecycle, or garage sales and thrift stores. Examples include folding bakers racks set up flat and tack welded in place or CD racks of various styles. Here is a link to a thread in the clematis forum where some other ideas are listed and I added a couple of photos of found object supports: https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/2963348/trellis-ideas?n=7 On most of my found object trellises I use wire or zip ties to attach long legs of rebar to anchor them better. A couple of other things I use include some old wagon wheel rims covered with netting since the wooden spokes rotted away long before I acquired them and some old pieces of farm machinery we found left around the property, but I don't have photos of those currently available. Here is a thread in the clematis forum that will take you to the photobucket images of supports that were used by Miguel, a former poster on the Garden Web clematis forum. Some are traditional, but at least a couple aren't. http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nckvilledude/library/clematis%20supports?sort=3&page=1 and WoodyOak on the perennials forum has posted photos of the support structures at the Royal Botanical Garden in Ontario: https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/3198414/clematis-forest-today-at-rbg?n=15 as well as of a trellis that she designed: [https://www.houzz.com/discussions/trellis-made-with-copper-pipe-and-wooden-stretchers-dsvw-vd~1822126[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/trellis-made-with-copper-pipe-and-wooden-stretchers-dsvw-vd~1822126)