Mine did the 1st year due to the hormone treats the nurseries douse them w/ for the market. However it took 2 years for just a few to show up again ~ now her 7th season in ground, produced a few on both ends that this Spring's night-frost didn't burn. Even the freeze-burned ones managed to blossom w/ slightly toasty centers ~ sigh! As *Chelone* who posted, what I thought was a great primer on growing H petiolaris, suggested getting a thick book to read to ease our impatience (I read the life of Georgia O'Keeffe)! She posted photos covering their beautifully built trellis just for their climbing *Queen of the Twining World* I saw another photo of one covering a huge bolder ~ I could only dream of!!! I love mine to death, whose only job is to cover an ugly wall of broken cement blocks ~ sigh!!! Go treat yourself to some that give instant rewards of blooms in the meantime!!!

Per the link below... Paniculatas (PG/Limelight types) can be pruned in the fall, winter, or spring. However, it is not necessary to prune them every year. It is suggested that one trim out crossing branches and those that do not contribute to an attractive form whenever necessary. Paniculata hydrangeas are the only hydrangeas that can be pruned into a tree-form. If one is attempting to grow a paniculata as a tree, the developing trunk and main top branches should not be removed. If a panicultata that is trained into a tree-form is cut or broken off close to the ground, it will grow back as a shrub unless the training and pruning is started again from the new shoots. Thanks again, and any other advice is most appreciated! Nothing to add but my Limelight grown as a shrub is big, beautiful, and pretty carefree. I just wish it wasn't located in the middle of a flower bed, since it has gotten so large and there are so many other 'better' locations for it. Sue Here is a link that might be useful: Scroll down for Limelight

Just one note to auntie clara. The blooms dry well in upright position. You must also spread some old newspapers to catch the pollens that fall off the blooms otherwise, it will be messy. re the flopping blooms. because the blooms can get too heavy, I make a selection of which blooms to retain and which to deadhead. I prefer to leave the blooms on the branches that are strong and thick while removing blooms from underbranches that are thin and straggly. In anycase, the cut branches will form new branches that will also start producing new blooms (just can't remember whether that will be in the next season or the following season). So cutting the blooms off will actually result in doubling the blooms. Ianna

HokieRusty, start as though you are going to do a comment by clicking in the comments text box, and you'll see a camera icon labeled "photo" below the text box. Click that, and a window will pop up that allows you to navigate to wherever the photos are on your hard drive. Click on the photo you want and then click choose down at the bottom (or alternatively you can just double click on the photo). Wait while the little dot spins until the photo appears in the message box. Then click submit unless you want to add additional photos.