thanks grass1950. Can you recommend a better route for a large lawn (I'm treating about 4 acres). Using a Agrifab broadcast spreader, pull it with a tractor. The agrifab hopper holds 50 pounds of Weed & Feed, no problem.

Hi Chiefsfan, I'm a fan and user of 46-0-0. That's about what I pay around here. The urea is great as your last feeding of the year when top growth has stopped. Because the nitrogen is quick release and even though top growth has stopped, the roots are still active until frost reaches the depths and the nitrogen is stored as carbohydrates until spring. Then, just allow mother nature to green your lawn naturally come spring. Apply at a rate of 2 to 3Lbs per 1000 sq. ft. and irrigate. Here is a link that might be useful: see table #2

Jeanie7, There is no thatch problem there. No need to aerate. He is using the correct fertilizer for this time of year on Bermuda. Help winterize??? It's July. His grass can be green until the week after Thanksgiving if maintained properly. That was (key word..was) good dense Bermuda there before he fertilized. Several factors caused this. Probably too much fertilizer , uneven distribution of fertilizer, not enough water, too much heat and hot sun, and mowing it too low or cutting too much off all at once. I know you guys want to mow Bermuda super low...but let me tell you something. You cannot always do this. Usually around the hottest parts of the year I have to raise the mower to allow the grass to stay healthy looking and green. (I hate doing this too because I can't use my 8 foot fairway mower at higher heights) So, northtexas water your grass more. Raise the height a notch or 2 and mow more frequently or keep raising it. Also when you fertilize water it in as soon as you are through. I live in the norteast Texas area and believe me we know heat. High humidity and high heat can wreck a good yard quickly. A week ago I was in survival mode with my yard during those 101 degree days and 90 something percent humidity.

When applied properly, straight urea is wayyyyyy cheaper than slow release forms. Compare the cost per 1,000sqft for a 24-5-11 compared to a 46-0-0 or 21-0-0. At a pound of N per 1,000sqft, the urea and amm sulfate will be under $2, whereas the 24-5-11 will be over $2. Slow release is not needed for your November winterizer app because you want the full pound of Nitrogen to get down to the roots and you don't have to worry about that growth surge like you do in the spring and summer. 2 lbs of 46-0-0 per 1,000 sqft is right down the middle. Some put down 3 lbs. The point of the november app is that root growth continues into December and studies have shown that it greens up in the spring quickly without the excessive shoot growth that you would see from an early nitrogen application in the spring. No need to use the 39-0-0 100% PPSCU for the fall unless you want most of it to sit on top of the turf until the Spring.